Timing belt (1 Viewer)

[83bj60]

60HP, 90ft-lbs

A little understated perhaps?

 

[83bj60]

Thanks so much for that part number 83bj60, my friend is very happy and thankful, he will order from a US parts website.

I would have never expected US dealers to carry diesel engine parts. Why are they available in the US?

I can think of two reasons, one, because these parts have more than one application, and two, because Toyota America is probably the central distributor for all parts sold in the Americas, at least they are for Canada, almost all our parts come from the same warehouse in California...

 

[jasonmt]

A little understated perhaps?

I think gbcruiser has a 2H powered 60, based my numbers off of that.

 

[gbcruiser]

60hp? So that's why my 2H can't get up any hills.
And here I thought I was pushing 100 ponies at least...

But if changing timing belts costs you less than $100 and only a little time, may you please assist me the next time I have to change one!

For me, timing belts are a royal PITA no matter how you look at it; a built in fault to make dealers more $$$. That's why many newer engines no longer have them.

Every time I think of getting a newer JDM diesel, that's one thing that turns me off: the quest for belts, belt tensioners, water pump, etc. Why build such great engines with an Achilles heel?

 

[83bj60]

Yes, and why did they switch to rotary injection pumps... Answer: for cost cutting reasons, that's why!

The 3B is IMO probably still the best diesel engine Toyata has ever made available on a Landcruiser... Sturdy like a bull, thrifty, no BEB issues, easy to adjust valves, gear instead of bealt, inline injection pump, piston cooling oil jets for easy turbocharging, robust water pump, vaccum pump, alternator and starter, to sum it up, a super tough and reliable motor...

Don't take me wrong the 1HD-T is is one impressive engine but how tough is it going to prove to be? Will it last 500,000km and more like the 3B can easily do, especially with no particular maintenance like my old 3B did?

 

[gbcruiser]

I hope the 2H holds up just as well...

 

[Tapage]

I'm the proud owner of one 2H with turbo and intercooler and one 1HD-T stock. The 1HD-T it's an amazing engine .. no matter what, but my 2H Turbo aren't a tortule ..

And I have the feeling that my 2H it's bullet proof engine .. and the 1HD-T it's the more refined and nice engine ..

 

[sandcruiser]

don't forget the noise level of the hd-t.
Every time I buy fuel, the guys ask me "You're sure it is diesel?" Then they smell the gas cap.
I finally asked a guy why and he said, "It's too quiet to be a diesel"

So there you go. And I don't even have hood insulation (but it is on the list).

 

[sandcruiser]

Old thread revival: is the pre-93 spring interchangeable with the post-93 spring?

I have a "1993" hd-t but I don't know the actual year with certainty. If necessary, I"ll just buy both springs as it would cost me more than $8 to tear it down and have the wrong one... but if I can save a few $, I may as well.

 

[Tapage]

Are you refering at coils ..?

 

[sandcruiser]

Tapage: I mean the tensioner spring on the timing belt. There are two part numbers in this thread for the tensioner spring (small spring, adjusts the pulley, I think).

A side note: I just got word from Cruiserdan that he can get just about all the parts needed to change the timing belt on an hd-t. Takes about a week and his prices look very reasonable.

Now I just need to find the darn timing cover. Anyone have a blown hd-t with a good timing belt cover?

 

[83bj60]

... Timing Belt Tensioning Spring...

BTW sandcrusier if you can post the part numbers (pre and post 1993), it would be great

 

[83bj60]

Hmmm... wonder why the page didn't load completely, sorry for repeating yourself, sandcruiser

 

[sandcruiser]

here's where I got the spring numbers. It seems that the 27003 is available through Toyota USA.

I second Rick's price. You guys ought to be buying this stuff from Toyota more often. We need this part moved from a "D" inventory to at least a "C" status.

Oh yeah the tension spring is 90207-27003, $6 US retail. How did you get 90207-27001, Rick?

Dave

from reading the previous quotes more carefully, I now think that the 03 spring supercedes the previous springs. Seems like it should be an interchangeable part if you consider that the rest of the parts stay the same.

 

[83bj60]

Thanks, sandcruiser, noted!!!

 

[sandcruiser]

so I"m finally into my timing belt replacement (just a few months later than I planned) and notice that my fsm tells me to pull the pulley, pull the valve cover, blah blah blah

seems excessive, doesn't it?

Can't I just line up the pulleys w/ the marks, pull the tensioner, pull the belt, reassemble and be done?

this is on the hd-t, in case that matters.

 

[83bj60]

YES 30 minute job... The hardest part is reinstalling the spring IIRC... Can't remember exactly how I did it, but it was actually much simpler than how it looked like it would be...

 

[sandcruiser]

ok, good. It just seemed silly to take it apart as much as the fsm suggests

Now I've just got to figure out how to fix my damaged timing cover-- it came with two holes and a big crack, plenty of dust, must be getting in, and water could certainly get in as well... which can't be good for the belt.

Im thinking maybe fiberglass.

 

[83bj60]

IIRC it's ABS plastic - provided it is you will notice a sign saying >ABS< on the part and not polycarbonate (>PC<) which is much harder to fix and would require the use fo epoxy instead. You can repair a hole in ABS using lacquer thinner and ABS shavings to form an ABS paste, fiberglass for strength and superglue for repairing cracks. So technically it would be feasible, that's how I'd do it:

First fill the crack with FRESH superglue to seal them shut and let it set (one hour is good). If the part was dirty, a prep with rubbing alcool would get ried go the excess grease and dust.

To repair the holes:

- get a piece of woven fiberglass
- grate some ABS plastic from a scrap piece of ABS drain plumbing
- melt the shavings in lacquer thinner into a liquid tar consistency
- dip the fiberglass piece into the liquid emulsion of ABS and thinner
- apply onto the hole from the back
- once set 'paint' some more ABS paste to fill the hole on the front
- once dry using a coarse file sand it clean, finish with emery cloth

DON'T apply too thick or too fluid a layer of ABS - it shrinks when drying, this can form surface cracks which can also weaken the part.

Congrats! You've just saved yourself some money and learned a valuable lesson on how to work with ABS

 

[Ron R]

Not saying what 83BJ60 says is wrong but there are special products to repair f.i. plastic (ABS) bumpers.
Think it's less complicated doing a repair with that kind of stuff.
Amongst others, 3M has those kind of products. As an example look here