Timing belt (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tapage
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rick_d said:
Rick,
You are correct I looked at my receipt and the 50 + was for 2 belts. I can tell everyone on mud that everytime I check toyota prices in Canada, they are always so much higher than the US (if I can get them here) Cruiserdan is the man for the diesel parts.
Cheers,
Michael
crushers
post ho
yep, it seems that Toyota Canada gets the parts through Ontario California which means that we are paying full list on the part plus duty (if there is any) dollar excange rate, and Toyota Canada's price mark-up plus our dealers over "list" markup... at least that is what i am understanding. simular to the difference betwen the prices of new cruisers in the states and Canada...
i do not know htis for sure but what i am guessing at...kinda makes sense to me...
cheers
i do not know htis for sure but what i am guessing at...kinda makes sense to me...
cheers
Did mine myself when I first got the cruiser. Easiest timing belt I ever changed, took under 1/2 hour. Belt was £28 in the UK - not Toyota original but same make I used on mine 2LTE Surf and never had a problem with them.
Any resonably competant home mechanic can change one. 1000% easier than the 2LTE anyway.
Any resonably competant home mechanic can change one. 1000% easier than the 2LTE anyway.
crushers
post ho
yep, i went through my old bills, $450 2LTE timing belt change, $130 HDT...
Oh this makes me so happy, since I'm about to do the timing belt on my 2L-TE. But I think I'll put a new cylinder head on there first...harveya said:
light_duty said:Oh this makes me so happy, since I'm about to do the timing belt on my 2L-TE. But I think I'll put a new cylinder head on there first...
Sorry to bum you out Robin.
If you are changing in the head then do the belt at the same time. You got to take it off anyway. Problem with the 2LTE is that you need to remove the crank pulley to get the timing cover off and to do that there is a whole bunch of other stuff to come off like the fan, aircon compressor bracket, all the drive belts etc etc etc. Takes about 2 1/2 to 3 hours once you have done a few. 20 to 30 mins on the 1HDT when you are used to it - same story on the 1KZT/1KZTE in case anyone has to do one on there, same basic layout as the 1HDT.
When I do the head, I'll definitely be doing the whole front end of the engine - all belts, tensioner, water pump, viscous fan.harveya said:Sorry to bum you out Robin.
If you are changing in the head then do the belt at the same time. You got to take it off anyway.
I have a quick diesel newbie question, though: how do I determine #1 TDC on a 2L-T? I've done a search but no dice. On my old VW 1600 it was a matter of distributor rotor position. What do I look for on the diesel (with the valve cover off?)
Also, Andy, I understand the head bolts on the 2L-TE are some unusual star head or Torx bit or something. Since you've done a few of these, do you know exactly what kind of bit I should get before I head down to the tool store?
Thanks!
Robin
Robin.
number 1 TDC, remove an injector and use a screwdriver to determinw when the piston is at the top then under valve cover make sure both valves are closed I.e. clezr of the cams. this is tdc on the firing stroke.
Head bolt can be undone with 14mm standard multistar type socket - that is not a standard 6 side but a 12 point socket.
number 1 TDC, remove an injector and use a screwdriver to determinw when the piston is at the top then under valve cover make sure both valves are closed I.e. clezr of the cams. this is tdc on the firing stroke.
Head bolt can be undone with 14mm standard multistar type socket - that is not a standard 6 side but a 12 point socket.
harveya said:
that's one way to do it.
I just look at the cam to make sure both valves are closed, then rotate the crank a bit to line up the timing marks on the crank and cam wheel to make sure everything is at TDC. This way you don't need to yank an injector or glowplug.
Then, remove and replace the belt, making certain that neither camwheel nor crank are moved.
A gpod practice is to replace the complete tensioner every other belt change. I paid $80 US for a new one about 2 years ago from Toyota. Don't forget, if the tensioner goes belly-up and seizes, it will cause the belt to break. Mine was starting to make some noise in the bearing.
After replacing the belt, I rotate the crank, by hand, 2 full revolutions (cam wheel rotates one full revolution), then slowly come to a stop at the point where the timing marks all line up. Hopefully!
If all looks good, and the tensioner has been properly tensioned/adjusted/tightened, I'll crank over the engine with the fuel supply shut off, so the engine won't start, to make sure the belt is tracking properly. If it is, then I'll fire up the engine. I do this with someone else starting and me watching the belt, with instructions to my assistant to immediately shut down the engine if I yell. The reason: Once when I did this on a volvo, the belt started to run off the pulley! I shut down the engine just in time to prevent disaster. the problem: The "brand-new" tensioner from Volvo was defective! It had a slight bend in the mounting bracket. Assuming this doesn't happen, and the belt is tracking properly, then I'll replace the timing belt cover.
Job done.
lacruiser said:that's one way to do it.
I just look at the cam to make sure both valves are closed, then rotate the crank a bit to line up the timing marks on the crank and cam wheel to make sure everything is at TDC. This way you don't need to yank an injector or glowplug.
Then, remove and replace the belt, making certain that neither camwheel nor crank are moved.
A gpod practice is to replace the complete tensioner every other belt change. I paid $80 US for a new one about 2 years ago from Toyota. Don't forget, if the tensioner goes belly-up and seizes, it will cause the belt to break. Mine was starting to make some noise in the bearing.
After replacing the belt, I rotate the crank, by hand, 2 full revolutions (cam wheel rotates one full revolution), then slowly come to a stop at the point where the timing marks all line up. Hopefully!
Assuming this doesn't happen, and the belt is tracking properly, then I'll replace the timing belt cover.
Job done.
Yes to be honest that is the way I do it, although the way I said is the way the manuals always tell you to do it. Actually I tend to make sure I have the timing marks lined up first then don't move them except to fine tune when putting the new belt on. Always do the hand turning before putting it back together especially on the 2LTE as the fuel pump is sprung and can often put the belt out a tooth. Last couple I did I actually set it up one tooth out on all the pulleys as the sprung fuel pump pulley is then in it's at rest position. Then hand turn it over to make sure it all lines up. First one I did took 4 goes before it was right.
You should change the tensioner every time according to the manual however unless it is running stiff or the spring has no obvious tension on it (you really need to lever it out of the way if it is OK) then you can probably get away with changing it every other time.
Superceeded tensioner spring?
OK, I hope I'm not waking up a slumbering giant by reviving this old thread, but, Wayne, what is the physical difference between 90507-27001 and 90507-27003? Isn't the 27003 the updated spring, replacing the previous part number?
OK, I hope I'm not waking up a slumbering giant by reviving this old thread, but, Wayne, what is the physical difference between 90507-27001 and 90507-27003? Isn't the 27003 the updated spring, replacing the previous part number?
Toyota dealers should have them in the US, at least the dealer I use in Saco has them or can get them very fast. Part number 13568-19065 for 1991 HDJ81, I believe it fits the 1HZ engine as well. Between $25 and $40 depending on who you talk to, expect about twice as much in Canada. I couldn't find the belt tensioner though.
I got mine a few months ago and I just passed 100,000 km so I'm due to change it
I got mine a few months ago and I just passed 100,000 km so I'm due to change it
Toyota dealers should have them in the US, at least the dealer I use in Saco has them or can get them very fast. Part number 13568-19065 for 1991 HDJ81, I believe it fits the 1HZ engine as well. Between $25 and $40 depending on who you talk to, expect about twice as much in Canada. I couldn't find the belt tensioner though.
I got mine a few months ago and I just passed 100,000 km so I'm due to change it
Thanks so much for that part number 83bj60, my friend is very happy and thankful, he will order from a US parts website.
I would have never expected US dealers to carry diesel engine parts. Why are they available in the US?
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This thread reminds me why I'm glad I don't have a timing belt...
60HP, 90ft-lbs, direct injection and a turbo really makes having to spend under a $100 and a hour of your time every 100,000km seem to be a minuscule price to pay.
