Tie rod removal

[4rings5cyls]

Normally this isn't anything to post about, but I'm about out of ideas. Trying to get the driver's side tie rod out and this far I've bent my small tie rod end puller, the next size up deflects too much and slips off, bent my pickle fork, and busted my 2 jaw puller. Hammering away at it is doing nothing. Any ideas? Used some heat already too. All of the other 3 are off, this is of course the last one I need to remove. Would prefer to not have to cut it off and drill it out if I can avoid it.

Thanks

 

[arcteryx]

For tough ones, use a combo of the tie rod puller to put pressure on it then a big hammer with some good whacks, that does it for me.

 

[4rings5cyls]

Ok, I'll give that a whirl once I track down a non-bent puller that fits, or just sack up and get a 3 jaw puller.

 

[arcteryx]

And for the hammer, use a 2, 3 or 5 lb hammer, not the traditional carpenter type, that won't do from my experience

 

[Pin_Head]

Use a pickle fork that won't bend. Beat on it with a 5 pound sledge and alternate sides that you fork it on.

 

[Output Shaft]

I had to cut one of mine off. Nothing I tried would make it budge. Others came off with various amounts of struggle.

 

[Kernal]

Many people have used the OTC 7315A puller (or copy) with good results (tool on the right in photo below). I found using a cordless impact wrench with this tool made it easy:

 

[half k cruiser]

Do what Kernal ^ suggested above. I like to add a blow from the hammer every turn or two, usually that will cause it to pop off.

 

[4rings5cyls]

^ that's the kind I had that bent. Just got a 4lb hammer, will try some persuasion with that.

 

[surfpig]

Use a pickle fork that won't bend. Beat on it with a 5 pound sledge and alternate sides that you fork it on.

He said "fork it" ...

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

The tie rod puller on the right in @Kernal s first picture was the only one that worked on mine. Get that bad boy on there nice and snug and get it with a good impact wrench. If it still doesn't come off then take a large hammer and give the end of the steering arm a firm hit. If that doesn't work I suggest getting a 5lb sledge and giving the end of the steering arm a hardy whack. That alone usually causes them to come out.

 

[SNLC]

where are yo beating on it at? Because that is key....

Cheers

 

[Pin_Head]

The pickle fork gets them all without fail before you can even get the expensive and ineffective too out. I removed over a thousand tie rod ends and ball joints with the pickle fork in my short career as a mechanic and I still have it. If you pull down the rubber boot, you can reuse it after using a fork. Don't waste your time; fork it.

 

[Hornd]

The pickle fork gets them all without fail before you can even get the expensive and ineffective too out. I removed over a thousand tie rod ends and ball joints with the pickle fork in my short career as a mechanic and I still have it. If you pull down the rubber boot, you can reuse it after using a fork. Don't waste your time; fork it.

I ruined a cheap pickle fork and ruined the rubber with the fork, Bent a puller, Hit it with a 3Lb sledge, then hit it with a full size sledge, then got a 3 point puller and give it heat, wacks, and it finally let loose. Just wait till you try to remove the end from the Drag link or Tie Rod and it has fine threads. Hope you have Acetylene. Nightmare of a job.
Cruiser Outfitters sells the whole kit of 555 Brand ends (Japanese) for about $100.

 

[Bambusiero]

Hit it on the SIDE, 90 degrees to the axis of the bolt, with some pressure in place from your puller.

I know, it doesn't make obvious sense at first, but it really works.
Same thing works for pressing out bushings in a hydraulic press, BTW.

The sharp hammer blow to the outside of the ring that is gripping the tapered shaft, sends an acoustic wave around it, releasing it's grip.

I totally beat the snot out a tie rod before I found out about this trick, deforming the threads beyond all redemption.
And it didn't budge.
2 or three sharp blows sideways, and it just popped out.
That was with no puller, too.
Pressure from the puller along the bolts axis helps even more.

Oh yeah, hub cone washers too. Same thing. Use a heavy brass drift punch (a brass dowel).

 

[bloc]

View attachment 1263898

The nut on the top of the tool on the right is thick specifically so it can be hammered on then ground flat again once it starts mushrooming. Apply tension to the joint by cranking down on the nut pretty good, then give it a whack with a sledge. The impact force while the tapered joint is under tension does a great job of getting stubborn ones loose.