TIE ROD & DRAG LINK ENDS SEIZED... (1 Viewer)

[dogboy]

I could use a little helpful input here, as I'm quickly exhausting my bag of tricks. Here's the breakdown:

O.K., the entire steering linkage is sitting on the work bench, the linkage tube is secured ("blue-torqued") in the vise, all of the ends have been doused repeatedly with Liquid Wrench for several hours now, and I've even hit one with the propane torch, all to no avail..... the mother f'er's won't frickin' budge!!

Gotta get 'em out so I can drop the new ones in and get the truck back on the road for the weekend - anybody have any miracle tips?

Thanks in advance,

-dogboy- '87 FJ60 with the #$%^ing stubborn tie rod/drag link ends.... and yes, I know this is the '40's board
but I miss you guys :-* MUU HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!

 

[Pete_S]

Drop a pipe over the end of a pipe wrench to extend the handle. Start by just trying to achieve just a "smige" of movement. Once that occurrs, shoot again w/ the Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, heat and repeat! That should do it!

Sucks to NOT HAVE a real tourch, been there, doin' that!
Good luck!

 

[Blue60]

Besides a "cheater" pipe over the pipe wrench, try using MAPP gas...it much higher temp than propane...let it get nice and hot...

 

[Greg_B]

Make sure the split in the tie rod is clean of crap, and use a large flat head screwdrive, secured with vice grips. Place the flat head in the groove, turn slightly with the vice grips (do this at the ends, where is will start moving the easiest first) making sure you have enough downward force to not pop the tip of the screwdriver out, but not too much to damage the threads. Just move it enough to get the oil to work in. Hold it slightly open, spray more penetrating oil in the groove. Keep working the oil in by spreading the gap a little. Give it some time to work, then your pipe wrench should be able to get it moving. This has worked for me every time, with no heat needed (knock on wood, now the next time I will need heat

 

[Klunky Chris]

I have had amazing results by taking a loooong pipe (4'-6') that just fits over the threaded rod on the joint of the TRE. (the part that goes into the steering arm)
lock the tie rod into a big vice like your saying so it doesn't move.

Leverage is the key here. All the beating in the world wont do anything, but a long pipe slowly turned will turn it out great.

I've never even had to heat mine.

 

[dogboy]

I have had amazing results by taking a loooong pipe (4'-6') that just fits over the threaded rod on the joint of the TRE. (the part that goes into the steering arm)
lock the tie rod into a big vice like your saying so it doesn't move.

Hey Klunky Chris,
can you elaborate on this technique a bit? you lost me a bit on the placement of the looooong pipe...are you sliding it over the TRE itself with the connecting rod secured in the vise, or do you have the TRE secured in the vise with the looooong pipe going where??? Sounds like a good trick, but I'm a little confused.

Good tips guys and many thanks. I'll let you know how I make out

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[HI^C]

i dont think pro will get hot enough to give temp (expend/shrink) the metals enough to help.

clean with wire brush everthing first, lube, use
pipe wrench, chain wrench, large cresent if you have flat areas. Try both running the ends end and out, sometimes they stick going one way and break free the other way. Even when it just breaks free, use the wire brush to remove any junk in the splits so it doesnt get stuck in the threads as it continues to come out. if junking the ends, try gently prying the split tube ends apart just a tiny tiny bit, less the a 1/8".

oxy/acy last resort, dont like playing with changing metal properties if you dont have to. only had to heat 2 ends in hundreds of tearing these apart on different vehicles.

 

[Klunky Chris]

ok.... tie rod is the long tube with the 2 TRE's in it (tie rod ends).
*Clamp the tie rod into the bench vice real good.
*take the long pipe and put it over the threaded rod on pivoting ball part of the TRE. This is the part that goes through the hole in the steering arm. The part that the castle nut and cotter pin go on.
* lever the long pipe which twists the TRE out!!! the rod will pivot in the ball to the end of its movement, then the whole TRE has to move.

clear as mud????

 

[dogboy]

ok.... tie rod is the long tube with the 2 TRE's in it (tie rod ends).
*Clamp the tie rod into the bench vice real good.
*take the long pipe and put it over the threaded rod on pivoting ball part of the TRE. This is the part that goes through the hole in the steering arm. The part that the castle nut and cotter pin go on.
* lever the long pipe which twists the TRE out!!! the rod will pivot in the ball to the end of its movement, then the whole TRE has to move.

excellent! baby's on board now....many thanks!

now if I can only keep the tie rod from rotating in the vise (my biggest problem to date, save the seizing) I'll be all set - "blue torque" doesn't seem to be tight enough ???

this board ROCKS!!!

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[Klunky Chris]

yea, my vice has a rotating head and angled teeth on the other side for clamping rods and such. Makes it a lot easier.

you could also get a friend on a pipe wrench on the tie rod to keep it from turning in the vise. Between the vice and the friend, you *should* be OK.

 

[dogboy]

YES!!!!! VICTORY IS MINE!

one 14" pipe wrench, a can of Liquid Wrench, and a few "new" words later and the old TRE's came off with nothing less than a full 200 lbs. of body weight applied to the wrench end...capital suggestion on that tool, without which, I'd still be out in the shop cursing

can you say "anti-seize compound"? -- new parts got the threads well coated upon install

thanks again good cruiser heads,

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[Klunky Chris]

congrats! glad you got it.

there's nothing worse than being totally stumped by something like that. My first cruiser tie rod sat in the vice for a week. I kept going in and trying everything to no avail..... until a good friend reccomended the leverage technique. then they turned out. :

 

[HI^C]

i owned a 14" decided it wasnt big enound, bought a 24", found they make a bigger one, bought a 36" found out they make a bigger one! but the bigger one was a fiberglass handle crap thing.

like the 36" so much it sits behind my door to my bedroom, just incase i need it for other reasons/ it doesnt fit in the drawers.

none are the alum. versions.

 

[sherwood]

it doesnt fit in the drawers.

....... [glow=red,2,300]'Fits my drawers OK but makes walking uncomfortable[/glow]

'Good reason to keep a selection of sizes of iron water pipe in 4 foot lengths.

John Sherwood '79 FJ-40
Charlotte, NC TLCA Upstate Cruisers