Thule advice (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter codyaustin5
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My experience with my old 100, my wife's RX400h, and my new LX is that the factory cross bars are not nearly as stiff as the Thule Bars. When I have mounted a box directly to the factory bars the box vibrated and had movement in the wind when driving at highway speeds. On my Thule rack there is zero vibration or movement. If you use the factory bars occasionally they should work. Long term I would use a dedicated roof rack.
We have not really put any load on the factory LX570 bars but have used the stock cross bars on our 2003 Land Cruiser hundreds of times. We have loaded them up with two 14' ocean kayaks on Thule kayak carriers and have driven cross country with a Yakima Mega Warrior basket loaded with 3 bikes and luggage. No problems.
You definitely want to have a fairing with anything other than aero blade type cross bars. Even the round Yakima bars have a very loud howl at speed. The Thule square bars are worse. Fairing makes all the difference.
You definitely want to have a fairing with anything other than aero blade type cross bars. Even the round Yakima bars have a very loud howl at speed. The Thule square bars are worse. Fairing makes all the difference.
- Thread starter
- #24
Got my Thule "stuff" and testing overall fit and feel. After installing the areoblades next to stock bars there is quite the difference is strength and rigidity. Thule is much firmer and stronger. I can easily shake stock and Thule won't move at all.
Question: should I leave stock rails on? Does it add strength to roof rails horizontally keeping it snug in all sections? Hope that makes sense. Crappy cell pics.
Question: should I leave stock rails on? Does it add strength to roof rails horizontally keeping it snug in all sections? Hope that makes sense. Crappy cell pics.
I leave mine on. Only so much time I want to spend messing with stuff when the point is to throw my gear on and go have fun.
Interesting equipment comparo....I still wonder about the added elevation using the Thule hardware & bars. Drag is drag and stuff that is higher off the vehicle roof (like the Thule) definitely creates more air interference in my view + wind noise.
You have to be 3" or more over factory...... no?
My "old" Evolution 1600 Thule box sits pretty tight to the roof w/factory bars & is solid w/no vibration.
You have to be 3" or more over factory...... no?
My "old" Evolution 1600 Thule box sits pretty tight to the roof w/factory bars & is solid w/no vibration.
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MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Thanks - no magic, once you get started - tough to quit. I won't lie though, it's a lot of work.
I have owned more mowers than care to admit to & this ↓ by far is has been the best . Have a small Honda (ha ha) for tight areas.
- Thread starter
- #29
- Thread starter
- #30
For the amount of times I will have the roof box/ski's ect...on I don't think the extra drag will be a big deal. I think with just the areoblades it should be fine. Extra height is 2.5"
I love your roof rack setup.. So much rack space! What is the length of the Thule crossbar (rack) you have mounted on your factory roof rails? Are they the Thule Aeroblades?
Thank you- chris
How has the Thule Aeroblades attached to the factory roof rails holding up over the years? Also, any issues with the Thule Hyper XL cargo box? I like your setup a lot. Do you have any pic showing the side profile of your rig with the Thule setups? Thank you!- chris
SQRRRL
SILVER Star
I’ve been a Thule guy for over 30 years. That being said I’ve been using my factory racks with my Thule roof/ aero box with no issues.
Here's my frankenrack:
First time posting an image here, so here goes nothing.
I found the factory crossbars to be too flimsy when the Thule was loaded. Added a Yakima rack with Core Bars to fix that problem. Then a RhinoRack fishing rod holder to get those out of the cabin (perhaps the best money I've spent in awhile!!). Bikes are on an old Yakima hitch-mount that isn't fancy but has gotten the job done for many years.
First time posting an image here, so here goes nothing.
I found the factory crossbars to be too flimsy when the Thule was loaded. Added a Yakima rack with Core Bars to fix that problem. Then a RhinoRack fishing rod holder to get those out of the cabin (perhaps the best money I've spent in awhile!!). Bikes are on an old Yakima hitch-mount that isn't fancy but has gotten the job done for many years.
Lots of reviews on amazon indicating that the Thule box has a tendency to allow water intrusion while raining from what appears to be the front seam - especially while driving in the rain and wind.
For that reason, I am looking at the Yakima equivalent which has better reviews.
For that reason, I am looking at the Yakima equivalent which has better reviews.
SQRRRL
SILVER Star
1world1love
SILVER Star
I have a frontrunner rack and used the frontrunner Thule adapters to Mount 43 inch aero blades to support the motion xt.
It sits high but I have no issues with noise. Also, I haven’t had any issues with water intrusion and I have washed the truck with the box on, fully loaded.
Regardless, we have a highlander with aero bars and I am almost embarrased by the abuse I have put those things through. I’ve never had to even re-tighten them since install. Much better option than the OEM cross bars of pretty much any vehicle on the road.
It sits high but I have no issues with noise. Also, I haven’t had any issues with water intrusion and I have washed the truck with the box on, fully loaded.
Regardless, we have a highlander with aero bars and I am almost embarrased by the abuse I have put those things through. I’ve never had to even re-tighten them since install. Much better option than the OEM cross bars of pretty much any vehicle on the road.
Another Evolution 1600 box here.
I prefer to use the stock rack as it keeps everything tight and low. Actually, an LC rack in this case as the LX racks are too short. I added a 3rd stock crossbar in my setup to increase stability.
Works nicely. And still fits under the garage with AHC in low.
I prefer to use the stock rack as it keeps everything tight and low. Actually, an LC rack in this case as the LX racks are too short. I added a 3rd stock crossbar in my setup to increase stability.
Works nicely. And still fits under the garage with AHC in low.
Hi @1world1love , would the box not fit directly on the Front Runner roof rack? I'm looking at rooftop box options and I like the Thule Motion, but perhaps I need something that's "Flush" on the bottom so it would fit on a FR/Prinsu rack.I have a frontrunner rack and used the frontrunner Thule adapters to Mount 43 inch aero blades to support the motion xt.
It sits high but I have no issues with noise. Also, I haven’t had any issues with water intrusion and I have washed the truck with the box on, fully loaded.
Regardless, we have a highlander with aero bars and I am almost embarrased by the abuse I have put those things through. I’ve never had to even re-tighten them since install. Much better option than the OEM cross bars of pretty much any vehicle on the road.
I'm not @1world1love but have a FR Slimline2 rack and Thule cargo box.
I had to buy the FR Thule adapters and the Thule bars which sit above the FR cross bars (kind of like a stacked / sandwich effect) due to the Thule cargo box's aerodynamic features which have the clamps recessed into the body of the Thule box. This recessed clamp could not reach the FR cross bars. Also, the nose/tail of the Thule box might have rested on the outer rim of the FR rack itself IIRC, further exaggerating the inability of the Thule box clamps to reach the FR crossbars.
There's more backstory to my setup, but I did this deliberately and am happy with the results. I get the benefits of both the FR platform as well as the Thule box.
YMMV!
I had to buy the FR Thule adapters and the Thule bars which sit above the FR cross bars (kind of like a stacked / sandwich effect) due to the Thule cargo box's aerodynamic features which have the clamps recessed into the body of the Thule box. This recessed clamp could not reach the FR cross bars. Also, the nose/tail of the Thule box might have rested on the outer rim of the FR rack itself IIRC, further exaggerating the inability of the Thule box clamps to reach the FR crossbars.
There's more backstory to my setup, but I did this deliberately and am happy with the results. I get the benefits of both the FR platform as well as the Thule box.
YMMV!
