Throwing parts at a 60 build thread. Now Featuring V8 swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dbbowen
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- #83
Got all fluids drained today without spilling a drop in the driveway thanks to the radiator box, and everything disconnected and labeled that was attached to my 2f. It is freaking hot in my driveway. Sucks to suck
All thats left is to disconnect 2 fuel lines, the motor mounts, and the crossmember and this sucker is out of there and off to @FJ60Cam for some work for the dude who bought the motor and for shipping.
Came a long way from my 4runner project where i had to use tiki torches for a lighting source in my 5x8 shed haha
All thats left is to disconnect 2 fuel lines, the motor mounts, and the crossmember and this sucker is out of there and off to @FJ60Cam for some work for the dude who bought the motor and for shipping.
Came a long way from my 4runner project where i had to use tiki torches for a lighting source in my 5x8 shed haha
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- #84
Parts list so far. Just in case anyone was looking to do the same. You never know who is reading this.... so the prices have been secretly omitted.
Ended up getting the Advanced adapters T case adapter at @torfab they had one in stock, but are trying to find me a missing gasket. AA is months out on the main adapter aluminum chunk. The current line is 35 people deep
Was originally going to get a Walbro fuel pump, but the market is really oversaturated with fake chineese knockoffs of them, and its just about impossible to spot a fake. The DeatschWerks is a proven fuelpump that is commonly used in drift cars with LS swaps and they are very easy to spot fakes with. Fingers crossed i dont have any fuel pump problems with it.
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- #85
Had some buddies come by and pulled the motor making sure to leave some good love taps on my sheet metal with the transfer case on the way out. Pea gravel driveway and engine hoist do not go well together. At all.
next is to remove the Tcase and clean this motor up and get it 3 miles down the road to Camerons shop.
next is to remove the Tcase and clean this motor up and get it 3 miles down the road to Camerons shop.
- Thread starter
- #87
Going to have to cut the top of the shifter bracket off so the lever has room to move. The little plastic square isnt fully engaged in the shifter cut out when i use the lock washer. When i dont use the lock washer it sits in there flush but i have even less clearance with the top of the shifter. Going to see if its any better with the bracket cut up tonight and see if i have full range of motion.
If i have to lose the lock washer for the shifter bolt, im assuming some red loctite will work to hold the bolt in
If i have to lose the lock washer for the shifter bolt, im assuming some red loctite will work to hold the bolt in
- Thread starter
- #88
Some actual tech for the thread...
If you are using a gen3 dbw system and want to have your ac idle up run like factory, youll need to control it through the PCM. The AC amp mod will need to be done still, but you need an extra driver chip and an extra capacitor on your PCM. Most silverados and tahoes do not come with this pcm but a lot of the express vans do. I lucked out and popped my pcm open and had the extra capacitor and chip installed already.
Basically this is the hardware needed to let the pcm control your idle. If you want to run drive by cable, you need this pcm as well. Drive by cable does not work on a dbw only pcm. You will basically get the computer on HP Tuners and tell the pcm to accept 12v for the ac request signal and splice into the wire connector.
I might not be using the correct terminology for some of this stuff but its all on ls1tech. Here are the photos of the extra chip and capacitor on the pcm board.
If you are using a gen3 dbw system and want to have your ac idle up run like factory, youll need to control it through the PCM. The AC amp mod will need to be done still, but you need an extra driver chip and an extra capacitor on your PCM. Most silverados and tahoes do not come with this pcm but a lot of the express vans do. I lucked out and popped my pcm open and had the extra capacitor and chip installed already.
Basically this is the hardware needed to let the pcm control your idle. If you want to run drive by cable, you need this pcm as well. Drive by cable does not work on a dbw only pcm. You will basically get the computer on HP Tuners and tell the pcm to accept 12v for the ac request signal and splice into the wire connector.
I might not be using the correct terminology for some of this stuff but its all on ls1tech. Here are the photos of the extra chip and capacitor on the pcm board.
under_psi
SILVER Star
Solid. Keep it coming.
- Thread starter
- #90
Since i'm swapping to the GM Compressor, all of the AC stuff is getting replaced. Knocked out the Evaporator today. Gotta say, this was much easier than i was planning on it being. Just unplug everything. Undo 2 bolts and like 5 screws in total and pull the box out.
Old cruddy Evaporator. Theres got to be a way to add a filter or something somewhere inline to keep this debris out
New Evaporator and expansion valve. Probably should have swapped that little switch in there too but it works fine so it stayed.
AC Amp mod. Supposedly this will disable the rpm sensing circuitry so the compressor doesnt kick in on start up or low idle. Then, by using the extra driver chip and extra capacitor in my GM PCM i can control the Idle up with the engine computer via HP Tuners by using 12v. Both of these things together SHOULD give me a stock running AC system, as it was designed to be ran.
I also decided to just use the Silverado gas pedal, as it was matching to the Tac module that came from the donor truck and it was all matching. Seems like other folks use car pedals for the positioning but with some "mods" the Silverado pedal works and fits just fine in there. Also, this was included with my motor so i didnt have to spend any more money. I just traced out the land cruiser mounting bracket onto some cardboard and made the one usable mounting hole on the silverado pedal line up with the left mounting hole on the LC template.
I basically cut the entire bottom off of the bracket, then recycled one of the mounting tabs from it. Then I made it oblong to give me some adjustability in mounting it to the firewall. On the side of the Silverado pedal, I ground down a groove for the tab to ride in and welded it in.
I forgot to take pictures of this, but i just cut off the majority of the Silverado pedal arm. Then cut off the LC pedal about an inch after it gets straight towards the top. I threw down some welding blanket on my floor and mounted the new hacked up pedal to the firewall and tacked in the land cruiser pedal to the new bracket. After verifying it was in a good location i took it all off and burned it in. Probably should have cleaned the material a little better but whatever it works. No one will see the welds and its going to be painted black.
Old cruddy Evaporator. Theres got to be a way to add a filter or something somewhere inline to keep this debris out
New Evaporator and expansion valve. Probably should have swapped that little switch in there too but it works fine so it stayed.
AC Amp mod. Supposedly this will disable the rpm sensing circuitry so the compressor doesnt kick in on start up or low idle. Then, by using the extra driver chip and extra capacitor in my GM PCM i can control the Idle up with the engine computer via HP Tuners by using 12v. Both of these things together SHOULD give me a stock running AC system, as it was designed to be ran.
I also decided to just use the Silverado gas pedal, as it was matching to the Tac module that came from the donor truck and it was all matching. Seems like other folks use car pedals for the positioning but with some "mods" the Silverado pedal works and fits just fine in there. Also, this was included with my motor so i didnt have to spend any more money. I just traced out the land cruiser mounting bracket onto some cardboard and made the one usable mounting hole on the silverado pedal line up with the left mounting hole on the LC template.
I basically cut the entire bottom off of the bracket, then recycled one of the mounting tabs from it. Then I made it oblong to give me some adjustability in mounting it to the firewall. On the side of the Silverado pedal, I ground down a groove for the tab to ride in and welded it in.
I forgot to take pictures of this, but i just cut off the majority of the Silverado pedal arm. Then cut off the LC pedal about an inch after it gets straight towards the top. I threw down some welding blanket on my floor and mounted the new hacked up pedal to the firewall and tacked in the land cruiser pedal to the new bracket. After verifying it was in a good location i took it all off and burned it in. Probably should have cleaned the material a little better but whatever it works. No one will see the welds and its going to be painted black.
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My what a big pedal you have……
Looks great.
Looks great.
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- #92
- Thread starter
- #93
So the Landcruiser Shop mount and bracket kit only works with 4l80e transmissions. I have a 4l60e so i had to go a different route. Using @Well Sorted motor mounts and the Advance adapters crossmember mount. Going to sleeve the bolt holes on the crossmember because tehy look like they will crush with enough torque but Here are the mounts. One side had a little bit of a gap that i had to fill because the frame isnt a completely squared surface and the weld looks kinda wonky there but you win some you lose some.
Solid supervision to make sure welds were up to par
Aaand the motor goes in.
Solid supervision to make sure welds were up to par
Aaand the motor goes in.
Get that. Looks awesome
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- #95
Fingers crossed the hood closes!
YotaJosh
SILVER Star
Fingers crossed the weight of that chain against that plastic intake didn't fubar it. They are sensitive creatures.
I'm liking the motor mount solution. Hopefully it dampens the vibrations better than the OG AA setup I have (which vibrates pretty bad).
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- #97
Yeah I was nervous about that but so far after checking everything looks good. If it’s cracked, I guess it’s a good excuse to swap to a Ls6 intake and fuel rail I guess. I took off the fuel rail for that very reason.
I am hoping the same on the mounts. My original mounts were poly, so these rubber mounts will hopefully be much softer. Once my trans mount gets in I’m planning on getting the crossmember burned in and get driveshafts ordered. Wondering if I can run LC ujoints on the front with a thin tube to clear the trans pan. Those small spicer ujoints don’t look too promising
A pto drive shaft on the front is about the only option to clear the trans
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- #99
Pto?
Google?
