Throwing parts at a 60 build thread. Now Featuring V8 swap

[offr0adlim0]

Power
Take
Off

Used to run accessories such as winches, implements etc.

A PTO shaft is about all that will work due to its small tube diameter. About all that you’ll have room for

 

[dbbowen]

Power
Take
Off

Used to run accessories such as winches, implements etc.

A PTO shaft is about all that will work due to its small tube diameter. About all that you’ll have room for

Didn’t see you said PTO driveshaft just saw PTO. Yeah I’ve got to get custom shafts made if I flip the 60 front shaft it kinda seems like the yoke fits in the space. Thankfully the motor is mounted pretty high. The tip of the engine cover is about an inch over the fender lines, might have to clearance the hood. It’s also offset a bit to the drivers side so I think that’s helping me some too. The rear should just need to be shortened but going to go with some thick wall or something over just shortening the stock rear shaft. Kinda sucks because it’s got new ujoints in it

 

[dbbowen]

Accidentally ripped a brake line out and my buddy made me a new one. Its a beaut. Tried to copy the coiled ones right behind it a little bit. Brake fluid got all over my paint and it looks like s*** now on the frame :/

Also got the crossmember fully burned in and the motor is 100% on its own weight and in its final resting place now. Got a TON of room for my fan, and might have to modify the hood a little bit because the intake is pretty high. Got the motor up as high as possible for axle clearance.

Added gas struts to the hood and got the radiator in there for shroud measurements. Think i am going to do the cooling/heater stuff first and fuel. Once the shroud gets here ill be able to hard mount the rad and start on the AC lines

Also, this is kind of unrelated, but i got this monster angle grinder that i am pretty obsessed with. Its Milwaukee 2981-20. Runs 4.5 - 6 inch discs and makes as much power as a 13 amp corded grinder. For a cordless its a beast. Its got this stop thing on it when you release the power paddle that stops the wheel from spinning in less than 3 seconds. Im digging it

 

[fountainhead]

I've found that these sorts of projects require less coke and more beer...

 

[dbbowen]

I've found that these sorts of projects require less coke and more beer...

Haha totally agree. especially now that all the heavy lifting stuff is over

 

[dbbowen]

Got the Heater hoses all mocked up and cut. tucked in along the injector rail. Hope i have room back there to turn the injectors backwards and tuck the wiring harness when it comes time for wiring. Need to write down the amount of clamps i need so i can order some stainless hose clamps with the liners in them. Need to flush out the Toyota red from my heater so i can run the GM orange stuff and throw the clamps on and the cooling system is done. Im wondering if i can use toyota red or pink in the Vortec motor

Nice and low profile

Radiator hoses mocked up too. Cut the lower one about 3/16 inch too short but it will still work

Ordered up a metric crap load of AN fittings for the Trans lines and fuel lines. Hopefully this week i'll get the fuel system mocked up and measure what i need for Fuel line and fuel will be all done.

Once the shroud arrives i can knock off pretty quickly:

-AC System, need condenser in place to build brackets for PS and Trans coolers, mount the dryer, then will have local dude come do my AC hoses
- PS System, @FJ60Cam PS hose kit is installed, just need to install the cooler and PS is done
- Trans lines, running one AN trans line under the fan shroud to the cooler in the driver side of the radiator, then to the external cooler, then another AN line back into the system on the passenger side.
-Fuel, Mount tank to fuel pump filter, fuel pump, high pressure fuel filter, then AN line to the AN6 fitting i have on the fuel rail. OEM regulator on the fuel rail is going to be used, and return line is already installed.
-Ordered a Vaccuum hose for a firstgen camaro with a 90* molded into it to run off of the brake booster and to the back of the V8. I made a fitting using an old steel line from the 2f mated to the push lock vaccuum connector on the V8 with a 90* bend in it. This will make a clean vaccuum line with no kinks

Hoping i can get all this done in the next few weeks, then it will be down to Trans/Tcase shifters, Airbox, wiring, and PCM tune. Will be using OEM 1980s era toyota Cruise control, will post pictures when its done. Its going to be freaking awesome. Going to be period correct on the inside of the truck.

Trying to get some Driveshafts ordered from Reel Driveline via @woody 's recommendation this week. Doing Fj60 ujoints with a 2 inch thickwall tube in the front and FJ60 stuff in the back with thickwall tube in the back. Really hoping the output flanges from the FJ60 diffs swap over to the Fzj80 axles in the future. If not thats going to suck.

 

[YotaJosh]

Is your heater circuit able to flow/loop through the water pump inlet and outlet when the heater core is shut off? If not, then you'll probably want to research LS overheating issues caused by a missing bypass in the heater hose circuit.

 

[dbbowen]

Is your heater circuit able to flow/loop through the water pump inlet and outlet when the heater core is shut off? If not, then you'll probably want to research LS overheating issues caused by a missing bypass in the heater hose circuit.

I was looking at it yesterday and the rear heater teeing back into the main lines seems to complete the circuit connecting the larger and smaller heater hose. If it doesn’t work out I can always run a H between the two main lines but they seem to be connected by the rear heater circuit

 

[COYS]

TW does not use OEM factory Toyota joints. I'll take a Toyota u-joint any day of the week over a 1350 or 1310.

JE Reel is doing FACTORY OEM slips, flanges, u-joints, etc...with their own tube. I have one in the rear of my FZJ80 and have one going into the rear of my new buggy build....that is going to be on 42 stickys

JE Reel has been working to source the factory Toyota stuff for a couple years. Knowing how busy Jim and his team is, it will be another year or three until they get anything online.

I just spoke with Jim and commissioned JE Reel to build me an all Japanese parts DC driveshaft for my '97 LC. Should I be specifying that he use OEM parts as much as possible or will the non-OEM Japanese bits suffice in your experience? I think the u-joints are made by Matsuba and the actual shaft bit by a Fuji-something.

Many thanks.

 

[woody]

I just spoke with Jim and commissioned JE Reel to build me an all Japanese parts DC driveshaft for my '97 LC. Should I be specifying that he use OEM parts as much as possible or will the non-OEM Japanese bits suffice in your experience? I think the u-joints are made by Matsuba and the actual shaft bit by a Fuji-something.

Many thanks.

I don't know, ask Jim

The shafts I received from JE Reel have performed flawlessly. I have wheeled my new JHF Trail buggy 3-4x per week over the past 6 months (roughly 100 days)....however, I'm mostly running the mall-crawler easy lines. I guess I should start pushing it to see if the shafts hold up to more than the local mall parking lot....those are 42" DOT Milestar MT02's and 45 degree steering