Those that have white knuckle sliders (1 Viewer)

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Oct 11, 2010
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Iowa City IA area
I just received my white knuckle sliders last week. I'm curious if anybody who has them has welded the step plate on instead of just bolting it down? I was trying to think of a reason it would be bad if it was welding on and could not come up with one. Can people who have them chime in? Thanks.
 
Subscribed. Mine are due in mid month. Looking forward to installing them.
 
I just received my white knuckle sliders last week. I'm curious if anybody who has them has welded the step plate on instead of just bolting it down? I was trying to think of a reason it would be bad if it was welding on and could not come up with one. Can people who have them chime in? Thanks.
I think if you weld them, it'll be difficult to change your Y-pipe, cats, and exhaust. Also if you sell your 80, you might want to sell them separately. Having them bolted gives you options.
 
Its whole lot easier to work on the exhaust with them out of the way. Been there done that.
 
I think if you weld them, it'll be difficult to change your Y-pipe, cats, and exhaust. Also if you sell your 80, you might want to sell them separately. Having them bolted gives you options.
Its whole lot easier to work on the exhaust with them out of the way. Been there done that.
Unclear how welding the *step plate* to the top of the sliders would affect any of this.
 
Unclear how welding the *step plate* to the top of the sliders would affect any of this.
You are right I misread. I thought he wanted to weld the sliders on.
 
I just received my white knuckle sliders last week. I'm curious if anybody who has them has welded the step plate on instead of just bolting it down? I was trying to think of a reason it would be bad if it was welding on and could not come up with one. Can people who have them chime in? Thanks.
I don't have the step plates on my WKOR sliders, however, I see no reason not to weld them on. If, for some reason they NEED to come off, use a grinder to remove the stitch weld.

I would weld them on with a 1" long weld every 12" or so. Lay out your welds and evenly space them so it looks good when you're done. You can also place the weld on the under side so they are not as visible. Make sure the gap is minimal and you concentrate the heat on the tube portion and not the step part, as the step part is thinner and you may burn through.

Make sure to clean the area well after the welds so paint will adhere properly.
 
Unclear how welding the *step plate* to the top of the sliders would affect any of this.
My reading comprehension is out of calibration, I honestly thought he wanted to weld the sliders to the frame.
 
I don't see the reason for the step plate at all. You use the tube to get in the truck and the tubes are too close together to get a foot caught even with little kids.
 
I have these in the rear only, for me it makes a more secure step IMO, especially for the kiddos, who's feet will indeed fit between the slider and truck. As folks have already said, easy enough to cut welds if needed, I suppose. However, also easy to bolt them on they are quite secure, and then I have the easy option of removing them if needed.
 
I've had mine for 7 years and my kids use them to get on the truck. Never an issue even with those little feet. They're close enough not to get those tiny shoes caught in between.
When I first installed them, my boys were only 2 and 4 yrs old and they go in an out every time.

But if I was to put them on, I'd weld them.
 
For those who think you'd need really tiny feet to slip between your slider and the vehicle-
  • If you order without the top plate, your sliders are likely at 20degrees, which allows for slightly better clearance offroad, and less room for little feet or paws to slip inbetween
  • if you order with the top plate, WhiteKnuckleSliders recommends changing to a 10degree angle, which makes it wider like a step. If you don't put the top plate on with 10degree sliders, there is more room for feet/paws to slip down inbetween.
We figured paws could slip on the tube, and the dog could bust a leg if he slipped inbetween... but turns out the mutt doesn't even use the slider when jumping in/out.
 
When posted this thread I hadn't really thought about someones foot slipping. I was more focused on the fact that I know there is I think 8 bolts holding the plate to the sliders but no bolts out towards the ends of the plates. My thought was that if something poked up through the slider from the bottom it could bend the plate. Also my OCD just doesn't like the lip and/or non smooth transition where the tube meets the plate. In my opinion they would have been better if they would have been welded together. And by saying this I'm not trying to take anything away from white knuckle sliders and the company as I've only heard great things about the sliders. That's why I ordered them. I don't remember reading anywhere, either here on mud or on the website that the plate was a bolt on. But after posting this question and the responses I feel pretty confident there's no problem welding the plate to the sliders.
 
I don't see the reason for the step plate at all. You use the tube to get in the truck and the tubes are too close together to get a foot caught even with little kids.
Dog paws and ladies' heels.
 
For those who think you'd need really tiny feet to slip between your slider and the vehicle-
  • If you order without the top plate, your sliders are likely at 20degrees, which allows for slightly better clearance offroad, and less room for little feet or paws to slip inbetween
  • if you order with the top plate, WhiteKnuckleSliders recommends changing to a 10degree angle, which makes it wider like a step. If you don't put the top plate on with 10degree sliders, there is more room for feet/paws to slip down inbetween.
We figured paws could slip on the tube, and the dog could bust a leg if he slipped inbetween... but turns out the mutt doesn't even use the slider when jumping in/out.
I went to a harness with a handle on the back. I figure sooner or later all that jumping is going to mess up the dog's joints--especially jumping down. Better to airlift.
 
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No kids or dogs here. I’ve put grip tape on the top of the tubes (White Knuckle on the 80, MetalTech on the LX, can’t remember brand on the K5) . Caution - better not slide off, grip tape is like sandpaper and will take skin. Works well when wet or muddy.
 
If you want no slip traction on the tubes:
So glad you asked, this one of my favorite mods. :)
I got the 10 degrees which is their "flatter" version because I need them to act as steps as well as protection.
this is the mod: Motocross Boot Grips
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Before you panic and say "OMG! you'll tear yourself up on those!"
They've been there going on two years, not once have they ever scratched my shins, but they sure have saved them from miss-stepping and getting just my toe on the grippers. They grab right on to one's boot and don't slip, even when one or both are covered in slimy red clay.
 
Suatmm (Shut up and take my money). @Rusty Marlin if I remember, you made those. For me, I don’t have those skills. I am impressed. Mine should be delivered today. Looking forward to installing them and trying them out.
 

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