Theseus build

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Nice work Jordan! I always enjoy seeing people push the limits on the old diesels.

As said above, once you get into a MIG or TIG, the welding will become much easier and prettier. I know the lack of $$ problem too.

Few thoughts I had. There is a fellow (coldtaco I think) who is group ordering custom MLS head gaskets for the 2H. If you're planning on high boost with your compound setup, an MLS head gasket is the way to go. Might be worth trying to get in on his custom order? The factory style fiber gaskets blow out fairly often on the boosted 3B/2H motors.

Second thought, heat is going to be your biggest problem with this motor. IDI motors generate huge heat when they are making big power. Might not matter for regular driving and short acceleration, but on long hills or towing you'll notice it. I'd recommend servicing your clutch fan with some new fluid if you haven't already (seemed to easily spin when you shut your engine off, which is not a good sign). Also, when you have your manifolds finalized, maybe get them ceramic coated, or wrap them with header wrap to hold the heat in so you don't cook your engine bay.

Another thought, some of the guys who have turboed the old N/A diesels have broken cranks. One standing theory as to why this happens, is the N/A injection timing is too advanced for boosted application. Might be worth pulling your injection timing back a bit. This is a common principle with turbo gasoline engines also.

Have you talked with Gerg on the mud forms at all? He has done compound turbos on his 3B before, and has lots of good experience I'm sure he could share (including breaking a crank).
 
Where to start?

I agree with Nick and have a few things to add:
-Build a drive pressure gauge and measure your drive pressure (exh. manifold pressure) Learn about drive pressure and compounds. Get it right.
-Not that I'm questioning your magnificent manifold welds but build a block to lower turbo brace to help hold all that weight.
-Be reasonable with your boost targets.... those are the original crank and con rods right?

My dodge had compound turbos that worked flawlessly for the 100,000+ kms I put on it. Spooled fast, low EGT's, sounded awesome.
 
Looking good, did you notice the six cylinder cruiser diesels always have two cylinders and an expansion joint built in? Wondering if you will have gasket issues due to expansion.
 
Nice work Jordan! I always enjoy seeing people push the limits on the old diesels.

As said above, once you get into a MIG or TIG, the welding will become much easier and prettier. I know the lack of $$ problem too.

Few thoughts I had. There is a fellow (coldtaco I think) who is group ordering custom MLS head gaskets for the 2H. If you're planning on high boost with your compound setup, an MLS head gasket is the way to go. Might be worth trying to get in on his custom order? The factory style fiber gaskets blow out fairly often on the boosted 3B/2H motors.

Second thought, heat is going to be your biggest problem with this motor. IDI motors generate huge heat when they are making big power. Might not matter for regular driving and short acceleration, but on long hills or towing you'll notice it. I'd recommend servicing your clutch fan with some new fluid if you haven't already (seemed to easily spin when you shut your engine off, which is not a good sign). Also, when you have your manifolds finalized, maybe get them ceramic coated, or wrap them with header wrap to hold the heat in so you don't cook your engine bay.

Another thought, some of the guys who have turboed the old N/A diesels have broken cranks. One standing theory as to why this happens, is the N/A injection timing is too advanced for boosted application. Might be worth pulling your injection timing back a bit. This is a common principle with turbo gasoline engines also.

Have you talked with Gerg on the mud forms at all? He has done compound turbos on his 3B before, and has lots of good experience I'm sure he could share (including breaking a crank).

Hey sorry it's taken me a while to get back to this thread. Been getting adjusted to this oil tanker I'm working on for the next few months.
To answer your questions, I would love to get a ML$ head gasket in the future but for right now I've been assured that the stock gasket should be good enough for up to 20 psi of boost. I'll be starting with low boost levels in the turbos (5psi small, 5psi large) and working my way up from there. Not to mention they cost a pretty penny so it may not be in my budget in the near future.
As for heat I'm really glad you pointed out my fan being so loose, I was worried that it was on it's way out and you've confirmed my suspicions :grinpimp:. I've got some VHT high temp primer and paint that I'll be baking onto the manifold once I get my exhaust bypass actuator mounting situation sorted out. Plus I have plans to order some knock-off reflective heat tape to shield all the components near to the manifold.
It's funny you should mention adjusting my injection timing, I actually had to advance it a hair's width to make it run a bit nicer for the little startup video. (Most likely due to the manifold creating lots of backpressure on the cylinders). I will retard the timing back to stock once I get the intercooler piping installed and then further retard so as to improve performance.
I've got a lot to learn about turbos and high speed diesel systems and I'm hoping my schooling will have some great info I can use as well as throwing questions at you to see if I'm going in the right direction. :worms:

I'm going to message this "Gerg" my thread and see what he thinks of it :smokin:

Where to start?

I agree with Nick and have a few things to add:
-Build a drive pressure gauge and measure your drive pressure (exh. manifold pressure) Learn about drive pressure and compounds. Get it right.
-Not that I'm questioning your magnificent manifold welds but build a block to lower turbo brace to help hold all that weight.
-Be reasonable with your boost targets.... those are the original crank and con rods right?

My dodge had compound turbos that worked flawlessly for the 100,000+ kms I put on it. Spooled fast, low EGT's, sounded awesome.

It's hard for me to load pics from my own thread on this ships crappy wifi so I think I may have included a pic of a extra brace I had welded onto the lower turbo flange to brace it onto the block. I'll also be renforcing the manifold piping to make the whole structure more rigid.
The crankshaft and connecting rods are all original with all new bushings and bearing surfaces. Before my oil pressure was hovering around 5-10 psi at idle when warm, now it stays at about 20-30 psi:cool:
As for dive pressure I dont really know much about how it effects turbos, but I do know that the impeller speed will increase as more fuel and heat is introduced to the engine. Drive pressure must have more to do with the actual displacement of the engine affecting the turbochargers. The primary turbo is 1 of 2 turbos from a twin turbo 4.8L V8, with roughly 2.4L of displacement going to each turbo. The secondary is from a 3.5L engine so I'm figuring that my drive pressure could be quite high which would explain why I needed to advance my timing slightly prior to the video to make it run better.

Looking good, did you notice the six cylinder cruiser diesels always have two cylinders and an expansion joint built in? Wondering if you will have gasket issues due to expansion.

Hopefully not much expansion issues to expect in the future as I had to ream out the bolt holes to counteract some warping I had during the welding process. I'll be putting a light coat of high temp copper rtv on the gaskets to prevent any leaks in the future.


That's all for now! Thanks for the insightful comments guys, I'm so glad to be part of such a knowledgeable community!
:beer:
 
Finding some time in between shifts to scour the web for 60 builds and I find this, a 6x6 turbo'd 2H 60 series!


:hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm:
 
Progress!
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Got 90% of the charge piping clamped together enough for a "first start" with mostly everything hooked up this past long weekend.
You can tell in the video that the injection timing is way too far retarded to even let the engine idle properly.
The gauge you see coming off the manifold is a temporary pressure gauge (0-100psi) to measure the custom manifold's drive pressure before turbo 1 in the system. Due to the injection timing being too far retarded there really is only a small rise in pressure at the higher rpm's.


Also I've been having no shortage of work to do during some of my free weekends this past winter
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Replacement of the governor diaphragm
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Got the exhaust manifold finalized with a mount for the bypass valve actuator
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Late night intercooler piping layout
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My initial custom bracket for the wastegate actuator for the 2nd turbo wouldn't line up to clear the steering shaft enough so I revisited my design and came up with a solution.
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Order from Wish.com came through with all the gauge pods I could ever need :D
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Got a friend in the local VI Toyota 4x4 community to weld a new aluminum flange onto the 1st stage turbo and I manually ported the excess material out
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Tried my hand at some DCEN Stainless TIG welding with a old buzzbox from our local community.
Im really liking TIG welding, wish I could have learned it sooner but its still great to have a new skill I can improve on!
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All that to get to this point. I'm really proud on how this build has progressed and I cant wait until its going to be able to take onto the road!
here's to hoping for a drivable landcruiser by the summer! :beer:
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Did some tuneup this weekend and now it runs super nice.
Advanced the timing a small amount from before and turned the fuel screw up 3x full turns on the injection pump. On the watsegate actuators I increased the preload on the diaphragms so that the valves were more properly seated

Initial timing position
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Final timing position in the more advanced position
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Maybe next weekend there could be time for a small road test:hmm::worms:
 
Very impressive. Where did you get that intercooler? What size is it? What size piping are you running?
I've been doing a fair amount of research on turbo upgrades and stuff. Have you any idea how much cfm
your intake will be pulling? Have you made any adjustments through the airbox?
 
A fun 2 hour read about air box upgrades what works and what didn’t.

 
Very impressive. Where did you get that intercooler? What size is it? What size piping are you running?
I've been doing a fair amount of research on turbo upgrades and stuff. Have you any idea how much cfm
your intake will be pulling? Have you made any adjustments through the airbox?

To be honest, I wish I knew more about these turbos but here's what I've found so far: Primary turbo: Garrett MGT2256s, GT22 shaft and compressor wheel, out of a 2013 BMW X5 e70 M. Secondary turbo: Borg Warner 5326-970-0004, K26 Series shaft and compressor wheel, out of a 2009 BMW xDrive 3.0d with a M57 engine.
Primary GT2259 compressor map:
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Secondary K26 Compressor map
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(if im reading this right, it looks like I should be good to go for running up to 20PSI o_O :p

As for the rest of the stuff: the charge piping between the turbos is all 2.0" stainless and regular steel exhaust piping, after the primary turbo the charge piping exits at 2.5" aluminum piping i got from a Amazon Kit, and the intercooler is some big one I got from a friend for $50 because it looks like it was involved in some sort of crash. Idk about the size.
There is still one charge pipe missing in the whole build though, I need to route a 1.5" charge bypass from the Borg Warner's 2nd charge outlet but that will come soon.
 
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So I managed to have about a week's worth of fun with the whole engine before it blew up.
It seems that there must have been a small crack in my exhaust valve that wasn't noticed during assembly and with the combination of high boost pressure, and combustion temperature the valve got weakened and dropped into my cylinder causing the whole engine to seize. The cylinder walls are now scored and the crankshaft won't rotate freely and the valve seats on the head are destroyed.
If anyone knows where I can find a replacement 2H, 2H block, and/or a 2H head with valves and springs, or even a 12HT that I can adapt my turbo manifold onto please let me know so I can get this cruiser back on the road again.
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The final form of all the charge piping
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Hand-formed beads on all the ends of the aluminum piping so my silicone couplers wont fall off
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Also did the 4runner brake caliper swap (super easy to do!)
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Last but not least, a little clip of the cruiser ripping around my school's parking garage
 
Add the 80 series brake master for full performance. I think big Jay has a HJ60 engine he might part with for now.
 
Add the 80 series brake master for full performance. I think big Jay has a HJ60 engine he might part with for now.

Jay's motor only has one turbo... that won't be enough for Jordan.

Seriously though, that sucks. It sounded so good, you know... until it didn't.

What was your max Boost? EGT? I suspect the failure wasn't related to those two factors.
 
Max boost 13psi measured from 1st stage compression pre-cooler. Post-cooler 8psi at the manifold.
EGT before primary turbo 650°C
EGT before secondary turbo 400°C

Should be of note that earlier that day I had done highway pulls with pre-turbo EGT temps of 700°C.

I honestly think that sometime in this valves life it got a bad bump and had a small defect that could hold heat differently and with the turbos decided to crack at the valve stem.
 
Sorry to hear of this setback Jordan. :(

Glad you're not giving up though. If you can get ahold of a 12HT, that would be awesome! Direct injection does much better with high boost high power setups.

What were your ultimate boost goals? A modern single turbo can spool quickly and easily give you 20-30psi.

Oh, and try to get ahold of a MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket if you can. Toyota went to these exclusively in 1990 for all their new diesels if I remember correct. The MLS gaskets are way more resistant to failure at high pressures.
 
Been making some good progress. Was able to track down a flex hone and replacement pistons and parts.
Thanks to our amazing landcruiser community I was able to score a donor engine that I was able to use the cylinder head and valve assembly from.
Here is a small picture dump from the last couple months.
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Lastly. I reset my injection pump to the stock position. Its humbling to see that such a small change can lead to such catastrophes.
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As of today I have the engine about 75% back together with the painted manifold installed. More to come in the following weeks:banana:
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"More to come in the following weeks" Haha big funny jokes. It seems like I got a bit too carried away with building up the engine, work terms on the lakes, school and then the whole covid shutdown happened which gave me lots of time to work on the cruiser which ended up being mostly bodywork, rust repair, a rear bumper build and a redesign of my exhuast system since Febuary.
So enjoy a enourmous picture dump of all the progress that has happend since. I'll try and annotate most of the pics to explain what is going on.

Starting with a follow up of the carnage. Turns out my turbos did not like having bits of valve whizzing through them so both turbines were toast so I opted to get new compressor/turbine cartiriges for them (one semi-used from our local cruiser member's turbo supply) and the other I was able to track down on ebay
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During the time while waiting for all the turbo parts to come in I started working on repairing my super rusty wheel wells with some pieces I had managed to salvage from a cruiser that was being scrapped for parts.
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My biggest mistake was that I didn't take enough pics of the full install but i essentally fitted them into place, chopped up some 16 gauge sheet metal to make extra patches to cover the bigger rust holes and finished off with coating every bit of bare metal with Pro-Form 224 Urathane seam sealer

Also made up a cute little plug and plate system to block off the internal BOV of the Garret turbo that was causing some boost leak issues on a local club members lathe
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then I found that the Garret turbo was also having some exhaust leak issues out of the shaft for its internal wastegate so I proceeded to weld the shaft closed and tack welded the valve to its seat
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then it was time to start putting the whole compound system back together!
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Also added a chain to the drivers side motor mount to cope with all the giaganenourmous torque that this system was gonna throw my engine around with

by this time it was December and I had finally finished all my exams for my 4th class marine engineering ticket and I headed out to the great lakes to earn that sweet engineers pay before school resumed in January.
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here's a pic of me inside our ships main engine's scavange air space (aka charge air manifold). The engine is a Wartsila/Hyundai 5RT-Flex 50 DT 2 which makes 7010KW at 99.5 rpm!

Once that sea phase was completed I got back to the island and had a few days to get my cruiser back on the road and do a little bit of snow wheeling with some of our south island cruiser members before I headed out for a family ski trip at Big White!
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Then school started and I was able to find a few free weekends to get back to the island and rebuild a old winch I got in a trade for a 24 case o' Lucky
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I ended up re using this stationary gear after i filed off the rusty chunks because i wasnt able to find a replacement part.
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Also made a winch plate out of 1/4 plate steel and a amazon fairlead hawse
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Got a bit more skiing done at Grouse Mountain while at school in north van. By this time the covid shutdown was beginning to rear its ugly head and my biggest fear was that the ski hills would shut down early! (they did :( )

Right at the end of Febuary BCIT moved all of our courses to online only and I figured that this would be a good time to move back to the island, do all my courses online and have a boatload more free time to bite into one of the biggest projects I had been procrastinating on.... BODYWORK and RUST REPAIR.
I had already managed to find a right rear quarter panel from the Radd Cruisers liquidation and set to work with my best guess on how I should go about putting it on.
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Begun to hack into the left quarter panel and to my complete surprise ;) it was chock full of dirt!
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Found lots of rust behind the right quarter panel by the fuel filler neck and had to replace it too
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Quarter panel tacked in..
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Alternating between fixing the right side and the left sides so i can maintain "some" continuity in the bodywork.
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completley built a whole new dog leg assembly for both sides
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again, didn't take too many pictures :/
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