The Ultimate A/C Thread For Pigs! (Air Conditioning) (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Can anyone comment as to whether this configuration will work with 3FE?


It may. you would need to fab up an adjuster arm for the fj60 bracket and compressor.

That odd ball "toyoda" labeled compressor is the mid 75 - early 79 compressor.

as for the drier, unfortunately once exposed to atmosphere after having oil in them, they are really just something to keep papers from blowing away. There are some black steel ones that are easily sourced to replace them, but they arent the cool aluminum ones. The bracket bolts to the radiator/shroud.
 
It may. you would need to fab up an adjuster arm for the fj60 bracket and compressor.

That odd ball "toyoda" labeled compressor is the mid 75 - early 79 compressor.

as for the drier, unfortunately once exposed to atmosphere after having oil in them, they are really just something to keep papers from blowing away. There are some black steel ones that are easily sourced to replace them, but they arent the cool aluminum ones. The bracket bolts to the radiator/shroud.

Thank you, I'll probably go look at a 3FE in a 62 before I fianlize my AC set up.

Can anyone tell me which of the 3 compressors I pictured will be the most efficient, or blow the coldest air?
-York
-60 series
-55 series, mid-'75 to early-'79

Thanks for the FYI on A/C drier. Mine was indeed filled with oil, it dripped out when I tipped mine on the side.

Any recomendations on which application to source for a drier?
 
There is a generic Parker drier that works well. I have used two, one for the R12, and another when I converted to r134a. Theyre cheap too, less than $30 IIRC.

As for the compressor, I would use either the FJ60 or FJ62 compressor. If you have a stock FJ62, use that compressor. Either will blow cold air. Really what dictates how cold the air is, is the amount of heat transfer at the condensor(most important) and evaporator(not quite as important b/c they are generally in good shape.)

Dont screw around with an old OEM FJ55 condensor, its not near as efficient as a new one. Design has gotten much more efficient over the years. Even with r134a my FJ55 will blow 38-40 outlet temps when its 80 outside.
 
Misc pics:

Late underdash unit:

FJ55 late ac.jpg


Late underdash louvre(takes place of stock louvre):

FJ55 late ac louvre.jpg


Early underdash unit. Hangs below the heater duct. Has its own fan.

FJ55 early ac unit.jpg
FJ55 late ac.jpg
FJ55 late ac louvre.jpg
FJ55 early ac unit.jpg
 
There is a generic Parker drier that works well. I have used two, one for the R12, and another when I converted to r134a. Theyre cheap too, less than $30 IIRC.

As for the compressor, I would use either the FJ60 or FJ62 compressor. If you have a stock FJ62, use that compressor. Either will blow cold air. Really what dictates how cold the air is, is the amount of heat transfer at the condensor(most important) and evaporator(not quite as important b/c they are generally in good shape.)

Dont screw around with an old OEM FJ55 condensor, its not near as efficient as a new one. Design has gotten much more efficient over the years. Even with r134a my FJ55 will blow 38-40 outlet temps when its 80 outside.

Brett,

Where did you source your condensor? I found these guys in a earlier thread: http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Parallel but now the page will not load. Did you find an application that mounted ideally in the 55?

Thanks for this info - I have 2 55 condensors, and I was planning on re-using one them. They have two different mount styles, so I was going to use the one that looked like it would mount in my '74.

Also thanks for the Parker drier recomendation. Do you have a p/n or application for your generic?
 
Sorry for the delay.

I measured the condensor and 14" tall by 20" wide(core and end plates) or about 21" wide if you count the o-ring fittings. I used a hole saw and ran the hoses through the core support, which is a little different from oem routing, but it works.

Also, the parker reciever is part number 852501 or 13805-1 It has both numbers on it. I got it from napa, but I cant recall Napa's part number.
 
I got some poor quality shots of the underhood of the 73 FJ55 I added OEM A/C too.

The first go around I used the CC2M compressor pictured in one of the posts earlier, and the original condensor in the grille. Turns out the compressor leaked all my r12 out over a few months, and the compressor made a reverberation in the refrigerant lines that equated to a droning noise in the cab. Just a fact of life with a 2 cylinder compressor...

Round two was modern components under the hood still using r12. after the new compressor(sanden 508), reciever/dryer and condensor, I discovered that the oil travels all throughout the system and for some reason adding the new dryer, compressor(no oil) and condesor should mean I need to add oil to the system. I did, according to the OEM FJ55 a/c manual, and that was bad-apparently lots of oil had pooled in the evaporator under the dash... Too much oil in the system creates excessive high side pressures and is really bad for the compressor. Got tired of paying for r12 charges, and decided to clean out all the components, add a new dryer, and PAG oil for an r134a conversion.

Couldnt be happier. Blows 38 degree outlet temps on fan hi in 85 degree weather. If I could get rid of the drafts from bad weatherstripping I would be very happy. Mind you this is in a stock fj55 with no extra dynamat or other insulation and stock rubber floormats. Not the ideal HVAC environment.

PICS:
COMPRESSOR: Sanden 508 mounted to stock FJ55 with A/C motor mount. I made a special plate to mount the sanden compressor to the stock slotted mount. I made my own, but this looks very similar except I tapped(8mm x 1.25) holes in the plate instead of the slots.


CONDENSER:
I figured the semi corroded, beat up OEM one wasnt helping out, so I sourced a new condensor. My FJ55 had aftermarket a/c installed at one point so the holes through the radiator core support were existing. The lower one needed slight enlarging but the straight #6 and #8 oring fittings fit through fine. Condenser is from Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment - WWW.ACKITS.COM and measures 14" tall by 20" long if not counting the fitting nipples on the end of one manifold. If you count those its 21" long for ordering reference. I dont recall what part number I ordered...

RECEIVER/DRYER: Its a generic O-ring fitting receiver/dryer from napa. with a binary switch(cuts off power to compressor clutch is low refrigerant is detected) Part numbers are in the thread a few posts earlier. I dont know what the napa part number is...

HOSES: Various hose fittings are needed. looking at the pictures, I would mimic what is shown, except at the flare fittings to the underdash unit. Instead of straight fittings there, I would use 90 degree fittings like the OEM units did, so you have a little more hose length to get the compressor out of the way for any engine removal/major service, but since r134a is so cheap, its not much of a concern. Rest of the fittings are all #6, #*, #10 oring fittings, with the correct bend for each location. You can source each in straight, 45 deg., 90 deg., and 135 deg....

Hope this helps out.

Dont waste your time with OEM underhood components unless you are working a perfect resto. Its not worth the hassle, and I can speak from experience and $$$. New stuff works better.
condensor 1.jpg
condensor hose fittings.jpg
compressor.jpg
 
.

Ive got the york set up in the first set of pictures but am missing my tensioner ... any suggestions.?
 
This is my set up - try to get a handle on it for the summer.

Anyone see this setup before ? 99% sure its dealer. (Its Dec73 production 74')

Thanks!

image-2846264311.jpg


image-3989455372.jpg


image-2047194150.jpg


image-627630584.jpg


image-2051142385.jpg


image-2174353263.jpg


image-2907783730.jpg


image-4245579490.jpg


image-334425841.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom