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Yep, 36302-60190 (high/low shift fork) & 41408-60030 (diff lock shift fork)...everyone lists them for sale but when they place the order from their supplier it's been discontinued by Toyota. I've tried Amayama, PartSouq, Megazip, ToyotaPartsDeal, various dealers, and a handful of eBay vendors. It's the same story everywhere, advertised as available but not actually available.
 
On the RF1A 4-cylinder cases you weld a piece of square stock on when you set it up for twin sticks. I just used my MIG to do it. IDK if it's the same material so maybe no help.

Even if it's cast steel you can weld it.
 
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On the RF1A 4-cylinder cases you weld a piece of square stock on when you set it up for twin sticks. I just used my MIG to do it. IDK if it's the same material so maybe no help.

Even if it's cast steel you can weld it.
yeah, thats to the shift rails and not to the shift forks like for what he is trying to modify. But like you said, even if they are cast, he can still weld it.
 
yeah, thats to the shift rails and not to the shift forks like for what he is trying to modify. But like you said, even if they are cast, he can still weld it.
its actually to the fork. no rail welding required for duala or twins.
 
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Thanks for putting me straight. I went back and looked at his pic and saw what he wants to try. I wouldn't think cast iron would be used here. Can do a spark test.

Cast steel can be welded. Can also TIG with silicon bronze or aluminum bronze to minimize heat maybe. Just throwing ideas out since I want to see his idea work.
 
On the RF1A 4-cylinder cases you weld a piece of square stock on when you set it up for twin sticks. I just used my MIG to do it. IDK if it's the same material so maybe no help.

Even if it's cast steel you can weld it.
yeah, thats to the shift rails and not to the shift forks like for what he is trying to modify. But like you said, even if they are cast, he can still weld it.
Thanks for putting me straight. I went back and looked at his pic and saw what he wants to try. I wouldn't think cast iron would be used here. Can do a spark test.

Cast steel can be welded. Can also TIG with silicon bronze or aluminum bronze to minimize heat maybe. Just throwing ideas out since I want to see his idea work.

That's all encouraging, I might cut a shift fork and give it a shot this week...it's been cold snowy so I've been hiding inside working on neglected computer projects instead.

I know cast can be welded but I'm a self taught welder and about 5 years out of practice so cast would mean I spend more time researching than welding. McMaster has the raw materials I'll need for the new rails. Plan is to use the 15mm rod for the rails (purple), put a 15mm hole in the 20mm rod (green), weld the 1/2" bar stock to the 20mm rod, then thin it down to whatever size it needs to be and add the rectangular cutout for the shifter to engage with. That combo will get pinned to rail with a split pin which seems to be how Toyota did it on the FJ Cruiser. Hopefully the 15mm rod being hardened won't cause too many problems when drilling for the split pins or adding detents.
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Took a break from the transfer case stuff to finish removing the TDI harness from the VW. My original plan was to keep all the engine stuff wholly intact until I could dissect it in the shop but the way VW makes their harnesses everything gets loomed together so the body side of the engine harness was in a super loom with the body harness, dash harness, infotainment harness, etc...we ended up removing the brake booster and cutting a large hole in the firewall so we could cut the harness as far inside the car as possible. Hopefully everything I'll need to standalone the engine is intact.

You can see in the right corner here where the harness pokes through the firewall.
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Part of the hole we cut to get it all out. About half of it is taped up because I forgot to take a picture before I started cleaning up but its about 6" tall by 12" wide.
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The body side of the engine harness, I'm not sure how much of this is needed yet because most of the important stuff seems to be on the detachable harness that is still on the engine but I think I need at least 10% of it. Rather sort it all out in the shop instead of in the car outside.
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Work has kept me out of the shop basically all of February but that’s finally over. While I’ve been waiting I’d been tweaking the design and ordering materials and tools for the VF4 top shift conversion and I’ve got most of what I need, the rest will hopefully show up by Friday. I’m taking some vacation days and my dad is coming out on Thursday to hangout and help with the machining and fabrication so with a little luck we can have this all done by Sunday.

I even allegedly found the shift forks I need from ToyotaPartsDeal, I’m doubtful because my go-to sources and multiple dealers were unable to get them but apparently they’re shipped and enroute…guess we’ll see in a couple days.
 
VF4AM Top Shift Conversion Day 1
All my parts came in and we started the machining today. Before we started I noticed one of the two FJ Cruiser shift forks goes on a shift rail that is 17mm diameter instead of 15mm like every other shift rail in the VF cases, so we'll be sleeving and redrilling it to 15mm tomorrow. If I felt like spending another $100 and waiting a week I would order a second of part number 36302-60190, which uses a standard 15mm shift rail. Onto the project...

The VF cases haven't had any major dimensional changes since 1988 when it was launched with the 3VZFE in the trucks/4Runners so we started the day by pulling the planetary gears from the front of the VF1 housing and measuring a bunch of stuff to get definitive locations for the shift rail guide holes on the front of the case relative to the case input shaft. I'll post some clean and readable dimensions later in case anyone in the future feels like following me down this path.
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It seemed easiest to leave the planetary gears of the VF4 in place during machining. In hindsight I think removing them would have been easier in advance, it has aluminum chips all over now so they'll be coming out to get cleaned anyhow. The center of the input shaft was the chosen as the datum and the housing was squared along the shifter mounting surface on the top of the case (for reference the face of the dial indicator is parallel to the top of the case in this picture).
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After lots of sanity checks we used an 1/2" endmill to establish a starting hole then bored it out to 15mm from there, checking the fit frequently with various gauge pins. After the 15mm hole was in place a counterbore was added for the shift rail seals that Toyota uses in the modern top shifting VF cases, my original VF1 had no seals but it was easy enough to accommodate them here.
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The holes as seen through the shifter mounting location at the top of the case.
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A test fit of my new 15mm shift rail stock to see if all our careful measuring paid off, everything seems to fit like factory parts which is a huge relief.
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Last thing we did today was start on what I think I'll call the shift flags (the little bits that stick out from the rails and engage with the floor shifter). These will get milled down to match the geometry of the OEM shift flags and slide onto the rails to be secured with roll pins.
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Here's a random selection of some of the tools we used to drill and bore the shift rail guide holes and counterbore for the seals, plus my fancy new metric tape measure for metric things.
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VF4AM Top Shift Conversion Day 2
Playing catchup here with the documentation, my dad and I got about 2 full days (~12hrs) and 1 half day (~8hrs) in the shop on this and then I got about another half day by myself yesterday. I thought 3 days would be enough to take this project from start to finish but reverse engineering the case then prototyping new parts is obviously slow going. Things are looking good right now but there's still some stuff to sort out.

Day 2 was the half day and we spent it making what I have decided to call the "shift flags", which are the little pieces that engage with the tab on the shift lever. In most applications they are forged right into the rail and machined in place but one of the FJ Cruiser rails has a slip fit flag that is pinned in place, I stole that design to simplify the machining process. We started with the rough blanks from the previous day and tossed them in the mill to start defining the remaining features.

The blanks with the old VF1 rails we are using for reference dimensions.
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Since the flags are also going on a 15mm shift rail we used one of the old ones for alignment in the vice.
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First job was getting the thickness down to match the originals. This isn't a super critical dimension, especially since I'll be using twin sticks with this case so after some rough measurements we crept up on the finish size and called it good when a straight edge would sit flush across the new flags and our reference surface on the VF1 shift rail.
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Then we put the slots in it that the shifters will actually engage with. I don't have any good pictures but these are square with the other surfaces on the shift flag. The slots on the factory Toyota parts are actually cut at an angle for clearance because the single shifter sits in the middle of them and pivots as you go through the "J-shift" pattern, so the whole shifter assembly is always at a slight angle. Twin sticks don't need to take that into account because each shifter only moves forward and backwards.
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When test fitting the blanks the previous evening I noticed that they interfered with the planetary reduction assembly and would not rotate down to be parallel with the top of the case.
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This was remedied with a large scallop from a 3/4" ball nose endmill, we guessed on the clearance and luckily it worked out when I test fit everything later.
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The parts were done after that except for the holes for roll pins which will be one of the last things I do at very end of the project. The only thing left was to test fit.
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The complete shift flags on the bench after deburring.
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Seeing how they look in the shifter hole.
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Here's the effect of the clearance scallops we added. It's a little difficult to get a good before/after but you can kinda tell that they are now parallel with the top of the transfer case.
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VF4AM Top Shift Conversion Day 3 (Part 1)
Day 3 was another full day, I'll split this into two parts since I need more than 10 pictures to show what all happened.

First task was modifying the shift fork with the 17mm inner diameter from this note. Still not sure why Toyota decided to make this part different than every other one ever but I'm sure their decision making process didn't involve me playing transfer case lego 20 years after they designed them...
All my parts came in and we started the machining today. Before we started I noticed one of the two FJ Cruiser shift forks goes on a shift rail that is 17mm diameter instead of 15mm like every other shift rail in the VF cases, so we'll be sleeving and redrilling it to 15mm tomorrow. If I felt like spending another $100 and waiting a week I would order a second of part number 36302-60190, which uses a standard 15mm shift rail.
I had an offcut of cast iron that we turned down to a 17mm outer diameter and 13mm inner diameter.
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This got pressed into the shift fork.
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I didn't want to bore it to the final 15mm inner diameter before we pressed it into the fork because I was worried about the compression changing the final dimensions. I'm sure I could have found an equation and done math to figure out how to address that but it seemed easier to just bore it on the mill after it was pressed in.
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After cutting off the excess and doing a little deburring I think it came out alright. Certainly beats hassle and expense of trying to track down another of the other style fork.
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After that it was time to open up the holes for the detent mechanism. There are already deep holes cast into the housing in the correct location so it was pretty simple to carefully open them up with a hand drill and tap for the threaded caps that hold the detent ball and spring in place.
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Then a test fit to see how everything was looking. Note here that the shift forks have a flat side and a curved side. I've got the forward fork installed backwards here and it caused a misdrilled hole later on, the flat on the forward fork needs to point forward and the rearward fork needs the flat pointed backwards so they clear the rest of the parts...
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VF4AM Top Shift Conversion Day 3 (Part 2)
The next thing to do was make the detent cuts in the shift rails. I'll spare the details but measuring for their positions was very tedious, took most of the day, and we went through multiple test parts for both rails before finally settling on something that seems to work well.

The factory rails use a "v groove" that is milled into the rail in the correct orientation. This seemed unnecessary (spoiler, it wasn't) so we decided to turn the detents.
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After some testing we decided that turned detents didn't leave enough material for the rails to be fully supported in the guides and they were binding and gouging the aluminum in the housing when they moved in and out during the a shift motion...so they were cut off and we tried again with milled detent cutouts. This was the most difficult part of whole project because the detent locations were incredibly difficult to measure for, they needed to be fairly precise, and testing a completed part was difficult with the transfer case disassembled. Somewhere in here we realized that the high/low and 2WD/AWD/4WD needed to switch places as well. Normally the high/low shift rail is on the driver side and the 2WD/AWD/4WD is on the passenger side. Since the 2WD/AWD/4WD has an extra detent for the extra drive mode it took up more space and the driver side of the housing had a deeper guide for the shift rail as you can see in the next picture (top down view of the case where the upper rail is on the driver side). It's not much, maybe 10mm, but it was just enough to fit 3 detents on that shift rail.
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That whole process took hours but finally we were able to make some test detents on an offcut and test everything. These are the tests and the 2WD/AWD/4WD with 3 detents is actually cut backwards, the middle detent should be closer to the right side detent but the idea is there.
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Fitment check with the test rails, shift forks, and shift flags. I don't have any pictures right now of the finished rails but they look basically the same. Also, notice the shift forks are aligned with flat sides in the correct direction this time.
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VF4AM Top Shift Conversion Day 4
Yesterday was just a half day by myself finishing up the shift rails and doing a dry fit. Found a problem that means I'll need to recut the detents on the high/low rail but otherwise everything went together like it should.

First thing I did was make a drill guide so I could add the hole for the roll pin to the modified shift fork and its matching rail. This took me longer than it should have to figure out the order of operations but eventually I got it machined and drilled the holes with everything clamped in place.
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Drill guide is the funny looking aluminum piece, the drill bit here is just acting as a pin to locate the other shift rail so I could confirm everything was in the right spot before I drilled.
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After that I tossed some roll pins in and fit everything up, looks good here but there is an issue that I'll try to explain. The main shaft of the case is split into two parts, the one circled in blue is part of the high/low planetary assembly and is normally retained in the front half of the housing. For measuring I had removed it and dry fit it to the back half on the bench. There are 2 shims I found during disassembly that I forgot about and they live where the red line is. This means all my measurements for the distance between high/low are off by the thickness of those two shims and when it's all assembled the detent for high range actually puts the case into neutral which is obviously bad. Otherwise everything fits and seems to work as intended.
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That's the whole project updated through yesterday. I took a break today cause I'm honestly kinda burnt out on it and I wanted to let some ideas to fix the high/low detents simmer while I do other stuff but hopefully tomorrow I'll go fix the detent problem and do a final dry fit. Then all that is left for the modification is locating the shift flags and drilling for their roll pins. After than I'll pull everything apart and do my best to get all the little metal shavings out of the gears and I can reassemble it all with some fresh seals and get back to other projects like reverse engineering the overly complicated harness for the TDI engine.
 
Man! Nice work. The devil is indeed in the details.
No kidding, my brain hurts in ways I didn’t know it could after this. Definitely not for the faint of heart and probably wouldn’t have been possible if I didn’t have my dad out here to help. He’s not a Toyota guy but another brain and set of hands helped a lot, plus he was a machinist way back in the day so he actually knows what he’s talking about where I’m just YouTube certified.
 
Neighbor had to scrap his 85 2wd and he let me strip it for parts yesterday. Dunno what I’ll do with most of these parts but it was a factory AC truck so that stuff will be useful in the future.
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Wichita has a lot of aircraft manufacturing and we’ve got a place downtown that surpluses their tools and production drops. I’ll circle back to why I bought this later but check out this 19 pound chunk of 6061 I got for $2.40/pound. I have no frame of reference but it seems like a good deal to me.
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I tossed the R156 in behind the old 3.4 last night to see what I need to do about the crossmember. I would like to keep the transmission in the original location during the engine swap since the R150 and R156 are dimensionally identical. The R156 uses a transmission crossmember instead of a transfer case crossmember like the R150, I was hoping I could repurpose my old crossmember with some new frame mounts but that didn't work out since the rubber isolator for R156 is shorter (I think) than the original.

I'm thinking maybe some 2x4 box tube would make a good crossmember or maybe some 3/8 plate? I have a BudBuilt for clocked RF1 duals kicking around somewhere that I could use as a template...pretty sure they use 3/8 plate.
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Question for the masses…are there any vendors that do a generic Toyota style hardware kit? I’d like to have a selection of metric nuts and bolts on hand but I want the correct hex size to keep my wrenches somewhat standardized (10, 12, 14, and 17 mostly).
 

May look at one of their kits for a 40 series.
 

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