The starter mod everyone needs
- Thread starter floridan surfer
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
I have something similar that I haven't installed yet. It's an inline bump button that let's me bump the motor. If I want it to start, I have the key in the ignition. If I'm just using it to turn the motor then I take the key out.
- Thread starter
- #3
Is it wired to the solenoid or directly to the starter motor? I want to wire a button to the motor as well, in case I have issues with the solenoid contacts.
Pat
I have a jumper wire for the solenoid coiled up under my hood in the event of a no-start 
I've had about 5 random no-starts over the last year and each time I was able to use the jumper wire to get going again, so I either have a problem with my ignition switch, P-N safety switch or alarm kill switch
Thing is, it doesn't happen often enough for me to dig deeper into it
However, when it did happen, it was usually under the worst circumstances
Drive-thru, rainstorm, flood waters, etc.
So, tomorrow I plan on running the jumper lead into the interior and possibly putting a hidden button either under the dash or behind the fuse panel, so I don't have to lift the hood anymore
I've had about 5 random no-starts over the last year and each time I was able to use the jumper wire to get going again, so I either have a problem with my ignition switch, P-N safety switch or alarm kill switch
Thing is, it doesn't happen often enough for me to dig deeper into it
However, when it did happen, it was usually under the worst circumstances
Drive-thru, rainstorm, flood waters, etc.
So, tomorrow I plan on running the jumper lead into the interior and possibly putting a hidden button either under the dash or behind the fuse panel, so I don't have to lift the hood anymore
Push button start since 2009...
After replacing my starter contacts in 2008, which were very much worn out, everything was good. Until over the coarse of a year the intermittent start was back. Condition worsened, 1 out of 10 no starts until it was 50%, then I added a relay to the circuit all was good for about 6 months, until the ignition switch did not work at all while on vacation in New Mexico this summer. 0 volts from the start position.
Quick and easy fix for me, was to pull the antenna motor connection and add a short wire from the power antenna down switch on the connector to activate the starter relay. My 14 year old daughter, at the time, was with me and she helped me find the circuit on the connector.
She thought it was the coolest thing to have the Cruiser with push button start.
We still think it's the coolest and I have yet to replace the bad ignition switch.
So for us, this is the way were having it...
After replacing my starter contacts in 2008, which were very much worn out, everything was good. Until over the coarse of a year the intermittent start was back. Condition worsened, 1 out of 10 no starts until it was 50%, then I added a relay to the circuit all was good for about 6 months, until the ignition switch did not work at all while on vacation in New Mexico this summer. 0 volts from the start position.
Quick and easy fix for me, was to pull the antenna motor connection and add a short wire from the power antenna down switch on the connector to activate the starter relay. My 14 year old daughter, at the time, was with me and she helped me find the circuit on the connector.
She thought it was the coolest thing to have the Cruiser with push button start.
We still think it's the coolest and I have yet to replace the bad ignition switch.
So for us, this is the way were having it...
Nah, the stater mod everyone needs is adding the relay in-line to bypass the old wiring. Don't add another step to the process, just add life to what's already there.
I haven't missed a starter since.
Documented in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=6316203&postcount=69
I haven't missed a starter since.
Documented in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=6316203&postcount=69
When you installed the relay, did you connect it to the starter switch or a separate button?
I don't want to bypass all the safeties to start on a daily basis (only in case of an emergency start)
Cool mod, especially if your working on the engine and don't wanna keep jumping in and out from under the hood. 
-Daniel Kent
-Daniel Kent
- Thread starter
- #9
Cool mod, especially if your working on the engine and don't wanna keep jumping in and out from under the hood.
-Daniel Kent
Yep, plus with diesel, helps when you have to bleed the injector lines .
Pat
The way I wired it, none of the built in safeties on the truck are bypassed. The black wire from the ign. switch to the starter is disconnected and attached directly to the activation wire of the relay. One power wire of the relay is connected directly to the starter (where the black wire was connected). The other relay power wire is connected to the positive battery terminal. The ground wire on the relay is connected to the chassis. I sanded some paint away and connected the ground to the firewall.
It doesn't take much voltage or current on the activation wire to close the relay. So, if you have some voltage drop over the stock wiring the relay is sensitive enough to pick this up.
Probably better explained here:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/prf-30202.pdf
Sure it's not bumping the starter, but its a way around starter problems. I went through it all and back again with diagnosing intermittent start problems. Just do this and be done with it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30202/overview/
See, that setup wouldn't work for me since it appears either my ignition switch, PN safety switch or alarm kill is the culprit
This only happened once in a blue moon, but when it did, I was able to test it using the same jumper wire I installed and there was no juice going to the remote solenoid wire with the key turned
And each time I was able to use the jumper wire on the battery and start without issue, so it's not a problem with the starter
That being said, I don't really see the need for an external relay since the starter already has one (the solenoid) and it only needs a small amount of juice to trigger it.
See, that setup wouldn't work for me since it appears either my ignition switch, PN safety switch or alarm kill is the culprit
This only happened once in a blue moon, but when it did, I was able to test it using the same jumper wire I installed and there was no juice going to the remote solenoid wire with the key turned
And each time I was able to use the jumper wire on the battery and start without issue, so it's not a problem with the starter
That being said, I don't really see the need for an external relay since the starter already has one (the solenoid) and it only needs a small amount of juice to trigger it.
I thought the same exact things you are thinking... PN safety switch, ignition switch, alarm, grounds, dirty contacts, starter, starter solenoid. You name it and I've replaced it. One thing you cannot replace easily is the old stock wiring and connections.
Based on experience, the solenoid on your starter, needs more than a small amount of "juice" (I am assuming you mean current). It also needs a certain amount of voltage. With all the worn connection interfaces, there will be voltage drops. Adding a relay will likely solve your problem. It did mine. Voltage drop is a killer.
Ron
When I get a no start (and again, this is once in a blue moon), there is NOTHING going to the remote trigger wire
In other words, no 12 volt signal when I turn the key switch
By adding a relay and using the same wire from the key switch to trigger the relay, I don't see how this will help as the relay won't activate with no voltage going to the trigger wire
I've had that switch wired as a small momentary switch behind my odbII cover. I have to use it much too often, I should really investigate my no start issue, it sounds similar to snake eaters, but is happening much more frequently.
