So the covers are not interchangeable?
The one ton swap thread
- Thread starter cody c
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- Thread starter
- #102
They are, I just wasn’t sharp enough to think about seeing the cover with the driveshaft in till after I had it installed. I can still swap them though.
Edit: might have found a home for the exhaust I’m getting rid of
I’ve been planning on replacing my exhaust with 4” in the long term (currently 3” and mostly stainless) but the upper wishbone isn’t going to work with the 3” in place, so the 4” will go in sooner than later
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- Thread starter
- #103
Some small crap today. Welded a tab on the fuel filler neck, so it doesn’t sway towards the tire, and built this thing for the H-N-L shifter. Just pulled it out of the oven and spun the handle on
It’s a lot of f-ing around to get these things right. You take a best guess where things should be tack it together, it seems right so you burn things together, put it in and then the shifter is too close to something and the range of motion is too far. You cut and weld it back together, same thing, about third time of hacking things together it seems just right. There’s like 4 or 5 hours into this with finding the right material and tap for the grease zerk, climbing under the vehicle to get the connecting rod in the transfer arm etc.
It’s a lot of f-ing around to get these things right. You take a best guess where things should be tack it together, it seems right so you burn things together, put it in and then the shifter is too close to something and the range of motion is too far. You cut and weld it back together, same thing, about third time of hacking things together it seems just right. There’s like 4 or 5 hours into this with finding the right material and tap for the grease zerk, climbing under the vehicle to get the connecting rod in the transfer arm etc.
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- Thread starter
- #104
Some recent pics:
the hi steer arm barely cleared the wheel, but wouldn’t clear with the drag link or tie rod end on it. I took the high steer arms to a machine shop in Calgary and had them bend them, I think they will fit now. I also replaced the axle seals at the inner c’s The replacement seal changed design to seal on a different part of the inner axle shaft
the hi steer arm barely cleared the wheel, but wouldn’t clear with the drag link or tie rod end on it. I took the high steer arms to a machine shop in Calgary and had them bend them, I think they will fit now. I also replaced the axle seals at the inner c’s The replacement seal changed design to seal on a different part of the inner axle shaft
- Thread starter
- #105
A couple more, will need to clearance the arms or knuckles, they bent too far in. Just powder coated the knucks
Should I cut the new 4” pipe back or start a new fad?
Edit: one side done:
my kid is a “close contact” to some other kid at her preschool, so I’m shut in till we get the COVID test results. Just started a new job and already taking days off till test gets back. I guess I’ll have tomorrow to get some front axle stuff done, and I got the bushings pressed into the upper wishbone so I gotta clearance a little steel on the upper mount and I’ll get the rear buttoned up
double edit: the high steer arms got painted gold, makes sense with the time and money ($800+) I have in to them. They are in the powder oven cooling at the moment.
had to clearance the pocket for the upper wishbone in the axle to get it in, but I did and finally bolted up
triple edit:
Got them coated and bolted, thought I’d edit in another pic rather than keep bumping my own thread:
Should I cut the new 4” pipe back or start a new fad?
Edit: one side done:
my kid is a “close contact” to some other kid at her preschool, so I’m shut in till we get the COVID test results. Just started a new job and already taking days off till test gets back. I guess I’ll have tomorrow to get some front axle stuff done, and I got the bushings pressed into the upper wishbone so I gotta clearance a little steel on the upper mount and I’ll get the rear buttoned up
double edit: the high steer arms got painted gold, makes sense with the time and money ($800+) I have in to them. They are in the powder oven cooling at the moment.
had to clearance the pocket for the upper wishbone in the axle to get it in, but I did and finally bolted up
triple edit:
Got them coated and bolted, thought I’d edit in another pic rather than keep bumping my own thread:
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- Thread starter
- #106
Some delays..
was going to drill the TRE holes and borrowed a reamer, got a bit of a cold and then got the medicago vaccine and was laid out the next 4 days. Barely got out of bed or off the couch, definitely no axles laid out for drilling yet unfortunately.
the machinist.. was a bad choice.
four months after I dropped off the axle shaft to be shortened and resplined I get a text about heat treating and they can’t do it and his compressor broke whine whine whine.
edit: a shop in Calgary can do it but it (aero-tech). They also did a bunch of other stuff. Not cheap, not too expensive, quick turn around and AAA quality it seems from them.
was going to drill the TRE holes and borrowed a reamer, got a bit of a cold and then got the medicago vaccine and was laid out the next 4 days. Barely got out of bed or off the couch, definitely no axles laid out for drilling yet unfortunately.
the machinist.. was a bad choice.
four months after I dropped off the axle shaft to be shortened and resplined I get a text about heat treating and they can’t do it and his compressor broke whine whine whine.
edit: a shop in Calgary can do it but it (aero-tech). They also did a bunch of other stuff. Not cheap, not too expensive, quick turn around and AAA quality it seems from them.
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- Thread starter
- #107
Pulled, cleaned and filled the aux tank with water to find the leaks. Been fixing that and added fittings with valve for tubing (sight gauge, or pull hose to drain or fill other containers if needed.
Also starting on drilling high steer arms, pain to layout
Also starting on drilling high steer arms, pain to layout
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- Thread starter
- #108
And since I’m out there (pork bellies and chicken)
edit: these TRE’s are massive, it’s hard to capture how big they are compared to Toyota OEM, and from rock auto they are like $15-30 a piece. It’s ridiculous how big of an upgrade to steering this is
edit: these TRE’s are massive, it’s hard to capture how big they are compared to Toyota OEM, and from rock auto they are like $15-30 a piece. It’s ridiculous how big of an upgrade to steering this is
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- Thread starter
- #109
I overcooked the pork bellies, they were a bit on the black side but all the fat rendered off them.
Got the steer rod chopped, welded, sleeved with a piece of tube I had. I welded it back together with the sleeve on then slid over the overlap. Probably would be cleaner with pipe on the inside and plug welds but I used what I had.
your cruiser wants this:
painted it “safety red”, you know, cause of safety... haha
Got the steer rod chopped, welded, sleeved with a piece of tube I had. I welded it back together with the sleeve on then slid over the overlap. Probably would be cleaner with pipe on the inside and plug welds but I used what I had.
your cruiser wants this:
painted it “safety red”, you know, cause of safety... haha
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Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
What’s the deal with your AUX tank? How much does it hole, is that notched side to make room for the exhaust? Any pics or detail on that setup?
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- #111
I had a bunch of scrap aluminum including 3/16” checker plate for the bottom, so I cut pieces to build one and paid a fella a few hundred to weld it together.
it holds about 80 litres, I bought a factory pickup/sending unit out of an 80 series tank from mud classifieds. Then use a factory Ford dual fuel switch and a Ford three way valve (late 80’s Ford truck). With that dash switch I can get it to display either tank but don’t have that wired out yet.
it’s notched for the exhaust to go by, but I could have done something different if I wanted.
I have a piece of plate that extends inboard of the frame welded on one side. Bolts welded to it so I don’t have to hold a wrench above and behind, built a bracket that runs on an angle between the frame crossmember and frame rail with studs also extended. Fairly easy bolt up with one person and an empty tank, it’s light enough to hold the tank with one hand and spin a nut on either side with the other hand.
Edit: how to lock in your steering so it keeps the tires straight (chain clamp vice grip)
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- Thread starter
- #112
Well, it looks like I made the flange adapter plate for the 14 bolt for the front of the driveshaft (at t-case instead of at the axle side).
I have a second driveshaft from the 60 I guess but its the same length, and the 4runner driveshaft (double cardan rear for the front).
Basically if Ive drilled for the pinion flange on the 14 bolt it wont match the other pattern. I either need to figure out how to use parts to make it work, or reconsider for a better option. Now that Im typing this I wonder if the U-joints are the same upper and lower maybe I can swap one end from the spare driveshaft. Otherwise, I pretty much am ordering an adapter, or just ordering 14 bolt pinion yoke, and making a custom.
I need to figure this out in the next day or two to order something.
Also, the cruiser will now sit on the rear axle without jackstands! I aired the bags all the way up and all the way down, I have about 1" of room till the shocks bottom so i could remove one of the bag spacers and drop it an inch.
Also, measured height with bags full height and nose down to tailgate is 53.5" aired up, aired down 39.75
pictures in a minute:
Also new muffler showed up, flo pro out of red deer AB 4” 7195
I have a second driveshaft from the 60 I guess but its the same length, and the 4runner driveshaft (double cardan rear for the front).
Basically if Ive drilled for the pinion flange on the 14 bolt it wont match the other pattern. I either need to figure out how to use parts to make it work, or reconsider for a better option. Now that Im typing this I wonder if the U-joints are the same upper and lower maybe I can swap one end from the spare driveshaft. Otherwise, I pretty much am ordering an adapter, or just ordering 14 bolt pinion yoke, and making a custom.
I need to figure this out in the next day or two to order something.
Also, the cruiser will now sit on the rear axle without jackstands! I aired the bags all the way up and all the way down, I have about 1" of room till the shocks bottom so i could remove one of the bag spacers and drop it an inch.
Also, measured height with bags full height and nose down to tailgate is 53.5" aired up, aired down 39.75
pictures in a minute:
Also new muffler showed up, flo pro out of red deer AB 4” 7195
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- Thread starter
- #113
Working on the front axle some. Got the front inner long side axle shortened and resplined and the front reassembled. I’m not sure who put that silly little land cruiser axle in there but I got it pulled to give to a buddy.
needed to chop that piece of steel under the motor out to clear the axle, it should clear everything but sheet metal now. Gonna farm out the radius arm brackets, shocks mounts and airbag perches out to buddy who’s getting the front axle (and other parts).
42’s finally seem “big enough”, I thought they’d fill the wheel wells perfectly but I gotta cut the front a bit for them to clear.
needed to chop that piece of steel under the motor out to clear the axle, it should clear everything but sheet metal now. Gonna farm out the radius arm brackets, shocks mounts and airbag perches out to buddy who’s getting the front axle (and other parts).
42’s finally seem “big enough”, I thought they’d fill the wheel wells perfectly but I gotta cut the front a bit for them to clear.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Not to diminish how impressive the 14 bolt conversion is, but do you have more pics of your smoker somewhere?
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- #115
Not to diminish how impressive the 14 bolt conversion is, but do you have more pics of your smoker somewhere?
Here it is, I have a coil of stainless tubing around the burning compartment that pulls heat, I run a fountain pump and pull water from the kids pool and it heats the pool water a bit.
the damper should be bigger, I tend to leave the door open when I run it so it draws enough air. Been burning maple, green ash and birch mostly, I like birch and green ash. We don’t get hickory or fig trees out this way, the wood I’ve been burning is from neighbours yards.
It’s been a learning curve, but with the coil I can burn the wood hot to get complete combustion and get a good smoke while keeping the temps mild if I want. I haven’t done anything that takes more than like 6 hours on it, you gotta be around adding wood every 15 minutes or so. Ribs, jerky and pork shoulders have come out good, but I got a dial in the roasts and bigger pieces of meat as I tend to overcook a bit
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- #116
Started chopping metal out of the fenders, and figured out the start of some brackets for the radius arms and airbags. Corey who build the brackets and welded truss on the 14 bolt will be fabbing those up.
driver side looks about the same. I’ll weld in similar to how I did the rear fender well, but I’ll leave the out and inner fender separate with maybe a 1/2” or 3/4” flange that overlaps so it’s more ridged and they can be bolted or unbolted apart if needed
driver side looks about the same. I’ll weld in similar to how I did the rear fender well, but I’ll leave the out and inner fender separate with maybe a 1/2” or 3/4” flange that overlaps so it’s more ridged and they can be bolted or unbolted apart if needed
How long have your arms been flipped? Did that change driving characteristics?
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- #118
Your getting to the thread a bit late, Im just doing fabrication and haven't driven with it, so they're not even bolted on to anything, they will be eventually. My buddy has time to build brackets and maybe burn them on hopefully in the next couple weeks.
Im going to D60/14B, the axle is moving forward about 3.5" and the bracket will be lowered about 3" off the frame and forward. Im going to have to cut the coil bucket and shock tower and get those moved forward as well, they'll be new steel and I wont be reusing factory brackets. it'll be on bags and running the 42's. Having the arms on top will be hard to differentiate if they change things because there is so much else being changed if you know what I mean.
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- Thread starter
- #119
I need to replace the rad hose that comes off the bottom of the motor to the bottom of the rad. What I have now wraps around the frame and then connects to the rad.
anyone done a 6BT swap know what hose or part number to use for this?
the D60 is hitting it as is, also I’m away from home so can’t measure outlet size for hose diameter, if anyone happens to know please share.
hoping to order while I’m away so I can get it out of the way during days off.
edit (July 9th) got the frame rails cleaned and started the patch panels on the inner fender well
anyone done a 6BT swap know what hose or part number to use for this?
the D60 is hitting it as is, also I’m away from home so can’t measure outlet size for hose diameter, if anyone happens to know please share.
hoping to order while I’m away so I can get it out of the way during days off.
edit (July 9th) got the frame rails cleaned and started the patch panels on the inner fender well
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- Thread starter
- #120
This project moves slow but ain’t quite dead.
got some fox shocks off a lifted superduty diesel (NIB) and designed and had waterjet some shock brackets. Those are in place now, made some studs on buddy’s lathe for the lower eyelet, studs at top of shocks.
I have a aluminum rad in order, the rad hose routing interferes with the axle, so that will replace the factory plastic/metal unit. I’m going with aluminum as I will get the 1.5” lower rad port chopped off, and increase it to 2.25” to almost match the Cummins 2-3/8” lower Coolant port. Thinking about upsizing the top as well.
I might get the panhard bar burnt on one side the next few days and then can get it bent or shaped to clear things, then the upper bushing can get welded back on.
got some fox shocks off a lifted superduty diesel (NIB) and designed and had waterjet some shock brackets. Those are in place now, made some studs on buddy’s lathe for the lower eyelet, studs at top of shocks.
I have a aluminum rad in order, the rad hose routing interferes with the axle, so that will replace the factory plastic/metal unit. I’m going with aluminum as I will get the 1.5” lower rad port chopped off, and increase it to 2.25” to almost match the Cummins 2-3/8” lower Coolant port. Thinking about upsizing the top as well.
I might get the panhard bar burnt on one side the next few days and then can get it bent or shaped to clear things, then the upper bushing can get welded back on.
