The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Kigiin
- Start date
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Replacing the front diff bushings cured the worst of my clunk. Went poly with the driver's side lateral bushing.
No clunk from park to reverse or drive. Still have a small clunk when shifting into drive from reverse, but it's now like a "normal" clunk like you'd expect from any other vehicle.
No clunk from park to reverse or drive. Still have a small clunk when shifting into drive from reverse, but it's now like a "normal" clunk like you'd expect from any other vehicle.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
I have had good luck with the cheap harbor freight one. Just be sure to loosen the end fitting on the gun when pushing it onto the zerk. It can then be screwed down to hold it on while you pump.
Got my grease gun delivered today and after some fiddling around with the gun I finally got it working. Crawled underneath the tank and proceeded to pump and pump and pump the fitting that grease the shaft fore and aft must have been really dry because I must have pumped at least 30x before setting grease ooze out of the seal. The grease points where the U joint was relatively quick three pumps and grease came out.
took it for a test drive and no more thunk so happy because even though it was a slight thunk it annoyed me and I’m glad that this is done.
took it for a test drive and no more thunk so happy because even though it was a slight thunk it annoyed me and I’m glad that this is done.
Not sure if it's worth a mention, I was getting a thunk shifting from drive to reverse, I adjusted the kickdown cable and now you hardly feel a thing when going from drive to reverse. (not to mention shifts nicer while driving too) possibly another thing to look at and simple to adjust
I haven’t experienced that yet but I’m sure the time will come
Which AT? == What year?
Not sure the number but it's a 1999 3 spd with overdrive
IT IS GONE! Holy crap I must have orgasmed like 17 times coming back home!
My passenger side CV tore a boot and died so I replaced it and now I have no clunk when letting go of the accelerator and hitting it again! Like, zero! There is still some slight thud when shifting P <> D when stationary, but I don't mind it at all.
Previously I had replaced the driver side CV, both hub flanges, ALL 63 bushings + had the differentials adjusted when I had lockers installed and I still had some hefty clunk, especially around 40-60mph.
Now with the PS CV replaced as well - zero. Nada. Still can't believe it!
My passenger side CV tore a boot and died so I replaced it and now I have no clunk when letting go of the accelerator and hitting it again! Like, zero! There is still some slight thud when shifting P <> D when stationary, but I don't mind it at all.
Previously I had replaced the driver side CV, both hub flanges, ALL 63 bushings + had the differentials adjusted when I had lockers installed and I still had some hefty clunk, especially around 40-60mph.
Now with the PS CV replaced as well - zero. Nada. Still can't believe it!
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
You have officially fallen in love with your rig all over again. Enjoy the pink cloud while it lasts!
Hi, if I replace the driveshaft entirely when I put back the new one, is the positioning matter? Do I need a paint mark it before I take the old off to make sure something? or to say is there any trick when replacing this?
I have this question because if I rotated the new shaft 180 degrees, it looks the same to me ...
I have this question because if I rotated the new shaft 180 degrees, it looks the same to me ...
I have the driveshaft clunk verrified by elimination of said clunk with rear slip joint grease application. Trouble is this fix only lasts a few hundred miles. I am using moly fortified. I have reason to believe the rig went 130k without grease application before my acquisition.i have greased it 4 or 5 times since acquisition but still only helps for a few hundred miles. Should I change grease types? Should I take apart the slip joint and clean it out? Should I replace the dust seal? It does seem to take quite a bit of grease with each application after only about 1k miles.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Mine does the same thing so I’ll be curious what the answer might be.
As far as I understand it will look the same but it won't be hence the need for matchmarks.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
I can’t believe it either. You are the only one who seems to have fixed the annoying issue. Hope it continues to stay away. What bushings (63) did you replace?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
You may have built-up gunk, even just a tiny bit, in the slip joint. Next step I'd do is disassemble, clean, sand rough stuff, and polish (emory cloth perhaps?). I found a sign of this maybe grease not symmetrically oozing past the seal when overapplying grease.
Mine is back 
With the new CV it was nice for like two weeks and now it's back to a hefty thud when letting of the gas and hitting it again at 40-80kph
I do not have anything more left to replace on the drivetrain except the driveshafts, but I am not doing that! Most I am doing from now on is greasing every once in a while.
With the new CV it was nice for like two weeks and now it's back to a hefty thud when letting of the gas and hitting it again at 40-80kph
I do not have anything more left to replace on the drivetrain except the driveshafts, but I am not doing that! Most I am doing from now on is greasing every once in a while.
Just curious, did any of you with the clunk type symptoms also have a bad shudder/vibration while driving 40-60mph and accelerating? I've seen a whole bunch of threads on the vibration issue here. But was wondering if there is any correlation on these symptoms. Thanks!Mine is back
With the new CV it was nice for like two weeks and now it's back to a hefty thud when letting of the gas and hitting it again at 40-80kph
I do not have anything more left to replace on the drivetrain except the driveshafts, but I am not doing that! Most I am doing from now on is greasing every once in a while.
