Not really on topic of the recent posts, but when I replaced the bushings for the front diff, that cut down on the thunk considerable if not completely.
The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Kigiin
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I have the clunk and have greased u-joints/slip a couple of times now, as the first time I greased them, the clunk seemed to go away but came back shortly after each time. Maybe I was overly optimistic in thinking that the greasing actually stopped it and wonder now if it is the drive flange(s).
The brakes need to be done and have finally received all the parts and will be pretty much replacing everything ( rotors, pads, bearings, races etc) except for the drive flanges and CV joints so now i am wondering if these need to be ordered before I start the tear down. Waiting on the weather to warm up above freezing before I tackle this job.
Can I tell if the flange/cv joints are the culprits prior to pulling everything apart: i.e. will raising the front end and slightly rotating the wheels to see if there is play? Or wil that even work since the flange is connected to rotor?
I like to triage problems ahead of time and have the parts on hand when I am embarking on a big job since none of dealers around here seem to have parts in stock when I need them asap.
TIA.
The brakes need to be done and have finally received all the parts and will be pretty much replacing everything ( rotors, pads, bearings, races etc) except for the drive flanges and CV joints so now i am wondering if these need to be ordered before I start the tear down. Waiting on the weather to warm up above freezing before I tackle this job.
Can I tell if the flange/cv joints are the culprits prior to pulling everything apart: i.e. will raising the front end and slightly rotating the wheels to see if there is play? Or wil that even work since the flange is connected to rotor?
I like to triage problems ahead of time and have the parts on hand when I am embarking on a big job since none of dealers around here seem to have parts in stock when I need them asap.
TIA.
"clunk/thunk" when driving ~35 MPH, let off gas pedal "clunk", than press gas pedal "thunk"
If grease the slip yoke, eliminates or reduce clunk/thunk. Then clunk/thunk returns rather soon, sooner than 5K miles after lubing. The seals are likely past useful life and likely the yoke and shaft splines are also. Try a moly fortified grease. If issue returns, consider propeller shaft (AKA Driveshaft) assembly replacement.
There are a number of test for front drive shaft (AKA CV) axle & hub flange splines:
With engine idling, foot on brake, shift to D-N-R R-N-D. If cluck between shifts, likely FDS & hub splines worn.
Also:
Perfect, I will give that little experiment a try. Muchas gracias.
I also have the clunk and have been reading up in this post and others. I've done new driveshaft grease and it didn't help.
It seems like this thread is mostly coming to the conclusion that for most people it is indeed CV shafts plus the drive flange?
I also just wanted to add this video to this thread as this also seems to make it pretty clear:
Looks like it is time for new CV axles and drive flanges....
It seems like this thread is mostly coming to the conclusion that for most people it is indeed CV shafts plus the drive flange?
I also just wanted to add this video to this thread as this also seems to make it pretty clear:
Looks like it is time for new CV axles and drive flanges....
My issue turned out to be the bushings for the front diff were shot. When I did the brakes and bearings, there was no play so I got the big pry bar out and tried flexing the diff mounts. Replaced all three and the clunks are gone.
I had a significant clunk on my last 100. Flanges and CVs got rid of 70% of it and the last bit also went away when I replaced the motor and diff mounts/bushings.
I have an FZJ100 2006 GCC Spec Land cruiser full time 4wd running on 1fz fe engine.
I have also the RND clunk which you have mentioned but i don't think about this seriously given the car's age and there's no issues about it running.
My main concern is i'm hearing some knocking down below relative to wheel speed whenever CDL is on and i'm driving through soft sand which is kind of annoying and concerning at the same time, the sound doesn't appear whenever the steering wheel is straight and on flat ground (still dirt) but i will hear it once the sand starts getting soft or going uphill on sand dunes (whenever vehicle is getting forced to) same sound also becomes louder on 4 low. The issue is not there whenever cdl is off.
I have overhauled the axles already and greased the driveshaft but the same issue is there. Kindly let me know if someone had the same issue and have found a solution about it before
I have also the RND clunk which you have mentioned but i don't think about this seriously given the car's age and there's no issues about it running.
My main concern is i'm hearing some knocking down below relative to wheel speed whenever CDL is on and i'm driving through soft sand which is kind of annoying and concerning at the same time, the sound doesn't appear whenever the steering wheel is straight and on flat ground (still dirt) but i will hear it once the sand starts getting soft or going uphill on sand dunes (whenever vehicle is getting forced to) same sound also becomes louder on 4 low. The issue is not there whenever cdl is off.
I have overhauled the axles already and greased the driveshaft but the same issue is there. Kindly let me know if someone had the same issue and have found a solution about it before
Mudders,
I have the classic D-N-R and R-N-D clunk that disappears when I lock the center differential. I have replaced the drive flanges, CVs, and front differential bushings. I have also inspected and greased the driveshafts.
I will be opening the transfer case to install a part time 4WD spool and would like to replace anything else that may be the cause of the clunk.
Does anyone have any idea what may be causing it?
I have the classic D-N-R and R-N-D clunk that disappears when I lock the center differential. I have replaced the drive flanges, CVs, and front differential bushings. I have also inspected and greased the driveshafts.
I will be opening the transfer case to install a part time 4WD spool and would like to replace anything else that may be the cause of the clunk.
Does anyone have any idea what may be causing it?
Thanks for the reply! I’ve visually inspected the motor mounts and they look good. Lower control arm bushings looked good when I rebuilt the front end (SPC UCAs, extended travel shocks, CVs, Aisin locking hubs, diff bushings, bearings, etc.) around 150K miles (truck has 163K on it now).
Wouldn’t play / clunk still occur in the motor mounts and LCA bushings with the center differential locked?
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Ok I just conducted a little experiment.
I unlocked the front hubs (removing any stress/strain from the front drivetrain) and locked the center differential and the clunk disappeared.
I suppose it could be the engine mount or something else. I will say, this is a substantially audible clunk everyone can feel. Passengers often ask what the hell is up when I shift to drive
.
I unlocked the front hubs (removing any stress/strain from the front drivetrain) and locked the center differential and the clunk disappeared.
I suppose it could be the engine mount or something else. I will say, this is a substantially audible clunk everyone can feel. Passengers often ask what the hell is up when I shift to drive
.
Turns out I’m an idiot. I had my girl cycle from R to D (parking brake and foot on brake - safety first) while I watched the front end. To my surprise the CVs were moving and clunking.
Now, I am not sure if this is a result of the CV splines wearing (they looked great at install 13K miles ago), play in the locking hubs, or a bit of both, but I am relieved that it is not something worse.
Now, I am not sure if this is a result of the CV splines wearing (they looked great at install 13K miles ago), play in the locking hubs, or a bit of both, but I am relieved that it is not something worse.
I went down the same path as you and then realized the obvious visual play in the cvs at the hubs.
Did you replace with OEM ? Are you lifted ? Do you wheel hard ?
Did you replace with OEM ? Are you lifted ? Do you wheel hard ?
Yeah that would have been the first thing I said if the first post hadn’t said the CVs and flanges had already been replaced. Aftermarket CVs?
Yup. Lifted. Planned to wheel hard when I was getting laid off in 21 but got another gig two days later, which postponed my dream overland/wheeling trip. Got some decent rock around Fort Worth though.
I went with really beefy aftermarket CVs because they wouldn’t get much use with the CruiserTeq part time 4WD kit. I compared the splines to the OEM CVs I removed (torn boots), and to others online, and they were identical.
I think it may just be the locking hubs. I may throw on some drive flanges next time I pack bearings just to check.
In my case, going between D-N-R-D doesn't clunk. Things are quiet. But when I'm coasting on the road, and then re-apply throttle, that's when I get the clunk. 263k miles. Just greased driveshaft. No difference yet. Does this mean diff bushings?
Not s’bad.
I completed the rebuild in January of 2023. I can pull the hubs and take a look at the splines. One banana job.
Diff mount and bushes could be part of the clunk you’re chasing. Once they wear out the diff will shift up and down under acceleration and actually hit the bash plate underneath. Or your cv drive flanges could be worn as well
