The official 1HDT Intercooler thread
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I have never had it on a dyno, so cant quote figures. The boost is around 28psi and I gave it a bit more fuel, still under 500c post turbo, once I set up the A/F meter I can set the fuel more accurately. It accelerates well, no problems at all overtaking at highway speed
What are you guys doing with your throttle linkages with the top mounts (and bigger plenums)??
I was thinking about ducting the cooler into the intake manifold but it looks like I'd have to run a second relay arm
the oil filter is in the way of just extending the rod.
I was thinking about ducting the cooler into the intake manifold but it looks like I'd have to run a second relay arm
the oil filter is in the way of just extending the rod.
hey seajay, what have you done to the auto to take more power?
how would you compare it to a 200 series?
nothing really, changed the trans fluid to synthetic, put on a trans temp gauge, tweaked the line pressure for a firmer shift, adjusted the TPS using a old 5v charger.
I haven't compared it to a 200 series, but its about a quarter of the cost I would guess
I haven't compared it to a 200 series, but its about a quarter of the cost I would guess
the A442F behind the diesel has a cable some refer to as a kick down cable, it is actually the shift pressure adjustment. Undo the locknut on the cable near the IP end and try a turn at a time. The TPS plays a part as well.
Thanks SeaJay, I was on to the kickdown cable, but what's the TPS? I may know, but not the acronym.
Its 'Throttle Position Sensor' on the top of the IP, you have to set it with 5v going thru it, I used an old charger with 5v dc output
Aaah, that'd be why, I don't have one of those
The reason I'm interested in pressure adjustment is that I spent $1400 on a Nomad Valve Body from Wholesale Automatics in Melbourne. Great bit of kit, shifts instantly at every change. Very snappy and flare free indeed. One of the things they do (when you install it) is get you to change out the spring on one of the pressure valves for a longer, stiffer one, which must make the whole system run at a higher pressure. They do a lot more than that in the upgrade, but I wonder if there is a gain to be had in changing just the spring.
This is probably a post for elsewhere so I'll post it on it's own and we'll see what rolls out from there.
The reason I'm interested in pressure adjustment is that I spent $1400 on a Nomad Valve Body from Wholesale Automatics in Melbourne. Great bit of kit, shifts instantly at every change. Very snappy and flare free indeed. One of the things they do (when you install it) is get you to change out the spring on one of the pressure valves for a longer, stiffer one, which must make the whole system run at a higher pressure. They do a lot more than that in the upgrade, but I wonder if there is a gain to be had in changing just the spring.
This is probably a post for elsewhere so I'll post it on it's own and we'll see what rolls out from there.
1HDT, prior to my ownership it used to have this mod plenum and china w2a cooler, now has custom XXi w2a/plenum to suit GT3071R, 40+ ambients here, cooler is good for 60+ deg drop (100+ hot side, 40 or so cold side), egts don't go over 400 post turbo, nice flashy digital gauges for easy reading too 
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Dude, I hate to rain on your parade, but having your EGT post turbo is completely meaningless, the harder you push your turbo, the more cooling you generate across the post turbo EGT probe.
If you're peaking at 400'c now pre turbo, your head will most likely be getting 700'c - 800'c pre turbo. Not good. Post lulls you into a false sense of security. My last head was cracked by 100'00km (previous owner) and ran post turbo 350'c - 400'c.
Pre turbo - you don't want to regularly peak over 700'c, most people will say that you can run at a sustained 650'C safely
Speak up everyone, tell me I'm wrong...
If you're peaking at 400'c now pre turbo, your head will most likely be getting 700'c - 800'c pre turbo. Not good. Post lulls you into a false sense of security. My last head was cracked by 100'00km (previous owner) and ran post turbo 350'c - 400'c.
Pre turbo - you don't want to regularly peak over 700'c, most people will say that you can run at a sustained 650'C safely
Speak up everyone, tell me I'm wrong...
Ask Mark, he tuned it... It runs 20:1 so well within the safe range AFR wise
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Well that may be so but your head will be running way hotter than 400'c. Do a mud search on EGT's and read up a little bit, there is an awful lot of evidence that I'm right.
I'm sure you are getting 20:1 AFR (peak?) but you are tuning it to an incorrect temperature. I'm just trying to help you not damage your motor dude.
You tune your total fuel to your AFR given the constraint that you keep your EGT under control. Then tune your aneroid pin for performance. There is no way you can apply a fudge factor of post plus 300'c (or whatever) to say that post 400'c is = pre 700'c it just doesn't work like that.
If you love your cruiser as much as I do, at least check out the independant data for yourself.
I have researched this at length and have been corrected by experts, take it or leave it, I'm just trying to help.
I'm sure you are getting 20:1 AFR (peak?) but you are tuning it to an incorrect temperature. I'm just trying to help you not damage your motor dude.
You tune your total fuel to your AFR given the constraint that you keep your EGT under control. Then tune your aneroid pin for performance. There is no way you can apply a fudge factor of post plus 300'c (or whatever) to say that post 400'c is = pre 700'c it just doesn't work like that.
If you love your cruiser as much as I do, at least check out the independant data for yourself.
I have researched this at length and have been corrected by experts, take it or leave it, I'm just trying to help.
Here's some interesting data on pre/post turbo temps.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/interesting-data-on-pre-vs-post-turbo-egts-1hd-fte.470350/
What is really interesting is the distance of his post turbo thermocouple, it seems that it is quite a way (100mm) down the pipe, and this is causing a large variation in the temps. While I would have preferred a pre egt, the dump pipe was already tapped right behind the turbo, so I've just run with what is already done. Response from the digital gauge is very fast, and under 15 psi doesn't even get over the minimum 200 deg to register.
I also have a hilux, 5L 3.0l w/AXT aftermarket (Garrett as well) turbo, and the probe is in a similar position to the one on this other thread, I was told to never exceed 550 post turbo with the probe that far away, have had the turbo on for over 25,000k, towing 2 tonne and have never had an issue, when towing it regularly sits at 500 deg for extended periods of time (5-600km).
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/interesting-data-on-pre-vs-post-turbo-egts-1hd-fte.470350/
What is really interesting is the distance of his post turbo thermocouple, it seems that it is quite a way (100mm) down the pipe, and this is causing a large variation in the temps. While I would have preferred a pre egt, the dump pipe was already tapped right behind the turbo, so I've just run with what is already done. Response from the digital gauge is very fast, and under 15 psi doesn't even get over the minimum 200 deg to register.
I also have a hilux, 5L 3.0l w/AXT aftermarket (Garrett as well) turbo, and the probe is in a similar position to the one on this other thread, I was told to never exceed 550 post turbo with the probe that far away, have had the turbo on for over 25,000k, towing 2 tonne and have never had an issue, when towing it regularly sits at 500 deg for extended periods of time (5-600km).
All I'm saying is - you're crossing your fingers having it post as the turbo is cooling the gas stream before it reaches your probe. The whole point for most people pushing it down to 20:1 AFR is performance (me included)
How can you know what the real temperature in your head is? The exhaust diameter, configuration and length, the crack pressure of your injectors, your pump performance and fuel volume, timing, intercooling, head work, air flow, manifold all play a part in how well that hot gas gets out.
How can you know what the real temperature in your head is? The exhaust diameter, configuration and length, the crack pressure of your injectors, your pump performance and fuel volume, timing, intercooling, head work, air flow, manifold all play a part in how well that hot gas gets out.
I'm not disagreeing with you, that's why I took it to Mark, spent a not inconsiderable amount of money on a top quality intercooler, had it tuned by someone who has experience in 1HDT performance modification, and will be taking it back when I've got a week spare to sort the fuelling issues (while my pump has been recently rebuilt (within 2 years), AFAIK it's still stock flow, and only good for 25psi @ 20:1, and might as well get their injectors while I'm going, even though I only had them done 2 months ago when I bought it...) It has a 4" intake straight through into the turbo, I've replaced the (small) K&N pod that was in the air box with an AFE one twice the size, and a 3" straight exhaust, so air flow in and out should be more than adequate. Mark has said he won't tune below 20:1 for long term reliability, and I have no argument with that, at the end of the day, I want longevity over power.
I'm not disagreeing with you either Rob, I;m sure Mark sold you good gear and gave you a good tune, I'm just saying take 400'c post turbo with a pinch of salt because it doesn't translate to an accurate indication of your head temp. The EGT is a valuable tool in managing the head temp which is a key component of lengevity.
Couldn't agree more, boost won't kill the motor, excess heat will
Yerp