Jebus..... I'd be pissed if I bought a rig just to go 100 miles and then go through all this. You're taking it in stride though.... hope a happy ending is coming.
The Life & Times of Shasta (86 FJ60 conversion to HJ60)
- Thread starter ontherxs
- Start date
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And this is why i ALWAYS tell people to set aside another 2-3,000.00 dollars to fix stuff on these old trucks. Thats why i never pay what an owner wants cause i KNOW I am going to find stuff.
ontherxs
They call me Tim...
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks for the TIP!
Looks like it is coming together. All it really takes is time and moneyLast time we came home on a flat bed it was with Heather's Volvo. I know that look on your face. Buck up!!! It gets better
Time & Money..those illusive bastards
Well buddy, you're only a couple weeks behind on the updates now 
The ones from this past weekend were pretty good!!
The ones from this past weekend were pretty good!!
ontherxs
They call me Tim...
- Thread starter
- #26
Well buddy, you're only a couple weeks behind on the updates now
They're coming. I just have that pesky thing called my J-O-B getting in the way. But, have to admit the suspense is killing you. It's like watching the sinking of the Titanic in slow motion.
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
Not really ... at least with that event, I know the outcome ...
Looking forward to more updates
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
You clean it up enough it'll look like this Kidding, just kidding
Kidding, just kidding
well considering the title of the thread.... we can surmise the outcome of this event.
Glad the PO made right..... I had tons of issues with mine when I got it (thankfully no real engine issues) but I got it for such a cheap price (when 80's were still reaching into the high teens and low to mid 20's) that I just rolled with it..... gave me months of getting to know my truck fairly well in the process.
Glad the PO made right..... I had tons of issues with mine when I got it (thankfully no real engine issues) but I got it for such a cheap price (when 80's were still reaching into the high teens and low to mid 20's) that I just rolled with it..... gave me months of getting to know my truck fairly well in the process.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Johnny has been letting you drink his Kool Aide I see 
Johnny has been letting you drink his Kool Aide I see
It's hard to turn down 22+ MPG!
The engine tear down was crazy looking. Like they rebuilt it in the dark.
Which diesel and is there a thread? I would like to see that.
...via IH8MUD app
Which diesel and is there a thread? I would like to see that.
...via IH8MUD app
ontherxs
They call me Tim...
- Thread starter
- #34
You are going to see it here live. Waiting for the 2H to ship from CuriserParts.net. Should leave this week.
I will do my best to update the build up regularly so it's a learning experience for all. At least once we'll probably organize a meet-up for anyone that cares to get elbow deep.
Rest of the tear down in 3.2.1...
ontherxs
They call me Tim...
- Thread starter
- #35
So a few weeks passed while I did research, consulted friends, talked to vendors, etc. The original thought was to just rebuild the 2F.
So the first place I went was http://www.johnwestauto.com/ he gave me balpark of $2500 and 2-month lead time. Which to me was a I have plenty of work to do right now quote and I don't really need to be messing with a 2F when I have plenty of racing engine work kind of response.
The second place is the one I would have gone with. http://www.boyettesmachineshop.com/ on west street in downtown Raleigh. Said they were behind and it would be a while. I asked how long he said 3 weeks turn around and $800 tops unless I also needed a full assembly and valve replacement. What a difference. They have been in that same location for '65 years. If you do go, ask for johnny 919-828-9383.
So, after all that and costing out all the replacement parts it looked like the 2H would be a good route in the long run for gas millage, simplicity, durability, and all around awesomeness. (fingers crossed)
So, out with the 2f
Phase 2 - Deconstruction
On to the pictures...
First remove the grill and headlight surrounds.
Next the battery and battery tray (need to find a new one of those)
Electric fuel pump gone.
Next to go the ignition coil
My older daughter wrenching with me. This has been a great experience for them and they both are so into helping. Love it.
I found a few local shops to get pricing to machine the block. This is what was asked.
I was wondering if you could provide me a quote and time frame for a rebuild of 2f engine.
I have short block, head, and manifolds all apart.
can bring
- camshaft
- lifters
- crankshaft
- pistons+rods
- block
- head (current condition)
- manifold is on order (will only need to machine flat at the end)
I would need you to
- hot tank everything
- magnaflux (check for cracks)
- verify camshaft and lifters for usability
- check for true (head mating surface, manifold mating surface)
- hone cylinders
- plane head / block
- valve job (replace valve seals, grind valves if necessary, grind valve seats)
I can re assemble the engine but would be interested in the assembly cost as an option.
I was wondering if you could provide me a quote and time frame for a rebuild of 2f engine.
I have short block, head, and manifolds all apart.
can bring
- camshaft
- lifters
- crankshaft
- pistons+rods
- block
- head (current condition)
- manifold is on order (will only need to machine flat at the end)
I would need you to
- hot tank everything
- magnaflux (check for cracks)
- verify camshaft and lifters for usability
- check for true (head mating surface, manifold mating surface)
- hone cylinders
- plane head / block
- valve job (replace valve seals, grind valves if necessary, grind valve seats)
I can re assemble the engine but would be interested in the assembly cost as an option.
So the first place I went was http://www.johnwestauto.com/ he gave me balpark of $2500 and 2-month lead time. Which to me was a I have plenty of work to do right now quote and I don't really need to be messing with a 2F when I have plenty of racing engine work kind of response.
The second place is the one I would have gone with. http://www.boyettesmachineshop.com/ on west street in downtown Raleigh. Said they were behind and it would be a while. I asked how long he said 3 weeks turn around and $800 tops unless I also needed a full assembly and valve replacement. What a difference. They have been in that same location for '65 years. If you do go, ask for johnny 919-828-9383.
So, after all that and costing out all the replacement parts it looked like the 2H would be a good route in the long run for gas millage, simplicity, durability, and all around awesomeness. (fingers crossed)
So, out with the 2f
Phase 2 - Deconstruction
On to the pictures...
First remove the grill and headlight surrounds.
Next the battery and battery tray (need to find a new one of those)
Electric fuel pump gone.
Next to go the ignition coil
My older daughter wrenching with me. This has been a great experience for them and they both are so into helping. Love it.
Last edited:
ontherxs
They call me Tim...
- Thread starter
- #36
Phase 2 - Deconstruction
Ignition coil gone. Thanks Hayd!
Removing the ARB bar. 8 Bolts all turned good but their a bitch to get to inside the frame rail.
Remove the core support cross member
Disconnect all the pressurized AC lines
Remove the A/C condenser
Ignition coil gone. Thanks Hayd!
Removing the ARB bar. 8 Bolts all turned good but their a bitch to get to inside the frame rail.
Remove the core support cross member
Disconnect all the pressurized AC lines
Remove the A/C condenser
ontherxs
They call me Tim...
- Thread starter
- #37
Phase 2 - Deconstruction 3
Time to pull out the radiator. Word to the wise. Unbolt the fan shroud first for two reason 1. You need the leverage for the bolts while its still attached to something solid and 2. it does not fit through the opening to pull it up or out with the radiator.
Rad is out
Fan shroud is coming out
I don't always drink lite beer, but when I do, its so i can have a place to drain my power steering fluid.
Time to disconnect all the remaining A/C lines and pull out the AC pump.
BTW... 2F cylinders make excellent beer / tools / wd-40 holders.
Time to pull out the radiator. Word to the wise. Unbolt the fan shroud first for two reason 1. You need the leverage for the bolts while its still attached to something solid and 2. it does not fit through the opening to pull it up or out with the radiator.
Rad is out
Fan shroud is coming out
I don't always drink lite beer, but when I do, its so i can have a place to drain my power steering fluid.
Time to disconnect all the remaining A/C lines and pull out the AC pump.
BTW... 2F cylinders make excellent beer / tools / wd-40 holders.
Great work! Thanks for all the pictures and write ups.
ontherxs
They call me Tim...
- Thread starter
- #39
Phase 2 - Deconstruction 4
Start of a new day. Let's go.
Picture sent to Johnny to confirm all that emissions spaghetti could be pulled
Draining the oi... wait, that't not supposed to be green. The oil pan was full of coolant from removing the head. I forgot this was an possibility and this miscalculated the volume that would come out. So I spent the next hour cleaning up a spill.. fin time.
#2 working hard to remove the front core support.
And now Shasta is faceless.
Start of a new day. Let's go.
Picture sent to Johnny to confirm all that emissions spaghetti could be pulled
Draining the oi... wait, that't not supposed to be green. The oil pan was full of coolant from removing the head. I forgot this was an possibility and this miscalculated the volume that would come out. So I spent the next hour cleaning up a spill.. fin time.
#2 working hard to remove the front core support.
And now Shasta is faceless.
