Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (2 Viewers)

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Alphaequipt Echo 17” 35mm and Kenda Klever RT 35x10.5r17
Flush with side of car.
Surprisingly doesn’t look like she missed leg day, these look wider than the 275/80r18 I took off, they are also a bit shorter.

They put a lot of weight on each wheel. I believe the shop to be completely incompetent. I’ll be remounting and rebalancing with another shop shortly. . . .

Aside from the shop issues, the tires are a good size and fit in the wheel well nicely. They look the business as well, if that matters.
Edit add a rear ground level pic
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Alphaequipt Echo 17” 35mm and Kenda Klever RT 35x10.5r17
Flush with side of car.
Surprisingly doesn’t look like she missed leg day, these look wider than the 275/80r18 I took off, they are also a bit shorter.

They put a lot of weight on each wheel. I believe the shop to be completely incompetent. I’ll be remounting and rebalancing with another shop shortly. . . .

Aside from the shop issues, the tires are a good size and fit in the wheel well nicely. They look the business as well, if that matters.

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Awesome! Looks great. That's alot of meat filling up the wheel well! What are your thoughts on the road noise and handling compared to your previous ATs?
Kendas seem to run wide for their size. There was no noticeable difference in width from my previous general grabber ATX's in lt285/65r18. Kendas 275s are nearly 1/2" wider then the nokian one HT that is also lt275/70r18.
I had mine road forced balanced and they ride great.
 
Awesome! Looks great. That's alot of meat filling up the wheel well! What are your thoughts on the road noise and handling compared to your previous ATs?
Kendas seem to run wide for their size. There was no noticeable difference in width from my previous general grabber ATX's in lt285/65r18. Kendas 275s are nearly 1/2" wider then the nokian one HT that is also lt275/70r18.
I had mine road forced balanced and they ride great.
No opinion on noise yet. The tire shop didn’t finish until end of day, and I have only 10 blocks on them.
For what it’s worth they were smooth and silent below 25mph.
I thought I had one out of balance. But it was just the swingout fully extended. Yes, I didn’t check and the shop didn’t lock it. :poop:Luckily no harm was done. It just swung out and locked open for the short drive home.
o_O
 
Damn! looks great!
Any fitment issue w/ wheel?
Are you having any rubbing issue with front tire?
I'm trying to order Alphaequipt 17” wheels as well and wondering if 35" fits w/ factory bumpers w/o sensor lift?
 
They put a lot of weight on each wheel. I believe the shop to be completely incompetent. I’ll be remounting and rebalancing with another shop shortly. . . .

Part of the challenge with big tires and small wheels can be balancing. When the imbalance is localized near the tire tread, placing weight on the wheel barrel has relatively little influence being that much closer in to the tire center. It can take quite a bit more weight at the wheel to counteract in imbalance at the tire. It can get worse still if the imbalance is near the tire tread/sidewall, especially on relatively narrower wheels. Rim lip weight can help as they are at the furthest extents of the wheel yet is not commonly used on aftermarket wheels. Tape weights are worse in that they are inward of the barrel, and inward of the spokes.
 
Damn! looks great!
Any fitment issue w/ wheel?
Are you having any rubbing issue with front tire?
I'm trying to order Alphaequipt 17” wheels as well and wondering if 35" fits w/ factory bumpers w/o sensor lift?
Fit up is fine. Lots of clearance for weights and whatnot. Almost as much as the 18s.
No, no rubbing. I already had larger diameter on here before, so I’m ‘preclearanced’. The 275/80r18 measured 35” (35,3” spec) inflated and weighted with full tread. These are 34.5” or so.
I have a mild sensor lift in front, maybe 1/2”. I got with the larger tires minor rub on the top of the front wheel wells under heavy compressions in ‘N’ mode. This change was partly to address that.
 
wondering if 35" fits w/ factory bumpers w/o sensor lift?
I have a rear bumper, but none of it is in the tire well, so same as factory clearance there. I also run an aftermarket rear mud flap off Amazon.
I have a oem front bumper and full wheel liner. I did remove the front mud flaps. I have moved the front of the front wheel liner forward one z clip space. I also did some very mild heat reshaping of the front wheel well above the body mount.
Also removed the side steps front mount, I can’t say if that would be in the way or not. I now have sliders (metaltech 4x4 highly recommended).
And 1/2” or so of sensor lift
 
I have a rear bumper, but none of it is in the tire well, so same as factory clearance there. I also run an aftermarket rear mud flap off Amazon.
I have a oem front bumper and full wheel liner. I did remove the front mud flaps. I have moved the front of the front wheel liner forward one z clip space. I also did some very mild heat reshaping of the front wheel well above the body mount.
Also removed the side steps front mount, I can’t say if that would be in the way or not. I now have sliders (metaltech 4x4 highly recommended).
And 1/2” or so of sensor lift
I love your build thread... took awhile to read them all but very very informative and my exact approach!
Thank you so much for sharing your experience... will definitely order the wheels from Tire rack and might have to go BIG w/ tires LOL~
Keep up the great works!
 
Aired up to 40 psi from the shop set 32. Gave me a chance to play with the Apex Rapid Deflate valves!
These things are amazing. The valve caps are large metal caps with retainers and are super easy to spin off and on, even with gloves in the cold. the valves are noticeably faster to fill too.

This isn’t even talking about the deflation. It is insane how fast they dump air. I can do the entire rig down to 18 psi, with unscrewing and replacing the caps, and casual walking to the next tire, under two minutes.

I know I’m not the first user on Mud with these, but I think they should be getting a lot more attention.
These take a lot of friction out of airing down / up, and that is really noticeable when we’re off road in time and convenience.

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Aired up to 40 psi from the shop set 32. Gave me a chance to play with the Apex Rapid Deflate valves!
These things are amazing. The valve caps are large metal caps with retainers and are super easy to spin off and on, even with gloves in the cold. the valves are noticeably faster to fill too.

This isn’t even talking about the deflation. It is insane how fast they dump air. I can do the entire rig down to 18 psi, with unscrewing and replacing the caps, and casual walking to the next tire, under two minutes.

I know I’m not the first user on Mud with these, but I think they should be getting a lot more attention.
These take a lot of friction out of airing down / up, and that is really noticeable when we’re off road in time and convenience.

View attachment 2876389
I agree these are so under rated. I’m glad to see someone else use and see how amazing they are.
 
Aired up to 40 psi from the shop set 32. Gave me a chance to play with the Apex Rapid Deflate valves!
These things are amazing. The valve caps are large metal caps with retainers and are super easy to spin off and on, even with gloves in the cold. the valves are noticeably faster to fill too.

This isn’t even talking about the deflation. It is insane how fast they dump air. I can do the entire rig down to 18 psi, with unscrewing and replacing the caps, and casual walking to the next tire, under two minutes.

I know I’m not the first user on Mud with these, but I think they should be getting a lot more attention.
These take a lot of friction out of airing down / up, and that is really noticeable when we’re off road in time and convenience.

That’s awesome. Is there any concern that these would be susceptible to damage on the trail? Do they protrude further than regular valves?
 
That’s awesome. Is there any concern that these would be susceptible to damage on the trail? Do they protrude further than regular valves?
I guess that depends where you put them? I’d like them to be a bit more recessed, but this is where Alphaequipt put the second valve hole. . . In this location the ‘regular’ apex deflator end of valve cap is a few mm below the rim face.
There are a couple competing units where you drill your own hole in the rim, could do that with these as well, and have a bit more control over it.
It doesn’t look any more exposed than the oem rims were that I was running previously.

A note for those with only one rim valve hole, apex sells an adapter to put your tpms inside the tire, clamped to the valve. Or you can run the more traditional Tpms straps.
 
Kenda Klever RT sales sheet
35x10.5r17 specs: (KR601)

PART NUMBER: 601015​

Size: 35*10.50R17LT
Load Range
D
Index
121
Speed Rating
R
Overall Diameter
34.76
Section Width
10.47
Max Load
3195
PSI
65
Tread Depth (32nds)
19
Rim Width (In.)
8.5
Rim Width (Min)
7
Rim Width (Max)
9.5
Sidewall
BSW
Msrp
$344.45
 
Now have one hour of seat time on the new tires. All around town 30mph and less. 40psi.

There is a low white noise rumble, similar to my AT tires starting at 25mph. Haven’t been on a freeway yet, but they won’t be silent.
Grip in mixed ice/snow excellent.
Ride compliance is much improved. One of the main drivers for this tire was the D /121 load. This lower load is quite noticeable around town on rough sections. I’m excited to see if it similarly mutes off road. Previously running 129load and they were very touchy on air pressure to get the ride great.
I’ll be experimenting with air pressure (can go as low as 32psi) to see what works best.
 
Working on a weboost drive reach otr install. Am going with the comet rs-840 mount attached to right side of hatch.

Radio unit will be under passenger seat, plan to tap cigarette lighter circuit behind dash plug. I want the radio on acc circuit.

Did a temp setup to see what would work for the inside antenna location. Wanted to put it on my dash cam facing down behind the rear view mirror. But that caused some oscillation. seemed to work best embedded in the ashtray or up by the on/off button. I already have the dsp volume control in the ashtray, so that is perfect (easy to fit, hole drilled, know how to take it apart).

Coming to terms with going under the pinch weld on the rear hatch. Routing from there up the right side to the passenger seat.

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