The great spring debate

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Spring pin @ 21.5" from the wrapped end.
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I've been doing some research lately about domestic replacement springs for the front of my rig as my springs are starting to form the "w". I have really enjoyed the flex I've gotten out of my hybrid packs for the last 4 years and since the pin is offset I'm looking for springs with an offset. My current pack is a 25 5/8's" and 31" offset. In chatting with another wheeler in a heavier rig he had a similar problem and converted to 3"wide springs and they've lasted longer for him. I already have plans to replace my front hangers so converting to a 3" wide spring won't be a big deal. My candiates are all Fords from the F150, F250, and limited F350 ranges all rear packs mostly in the 80s-mid 90's year ranges. These all range from 24-25" to 31-32" offset. I'm at the point to start JY hunting and seeing what's available in my area.
 
I went to the junk yard today and came up with a few numbers but nothing is very close to the stock cruiser springs...

97 Dakota 2.5" wide, 55-56" long with a 24" from hanger to center pin
99 ram 1500 2.5" wide, 58.5" long centered pin
92 chevy 1500 2.5" wide, 64"
95 S-10 blazer 2.75" wide, 51" long with 27" hanger to center pin length
90 explorer 2.5" wide, 56" long, and 26" hanger to center pin length.
88 Bronco II 3.0" width, 55.5" long, 26" from hanger to center pin
93 ranger 2.75" wide, 56.5" long, 26" hanger to pin length
87 ranger 2.75" wide, 56" long, 25.25" hanger to center pin
81 T/A 2.75" wide, 56" long, 25.5" hanger to center pin.

then I came home and measured my very damaged cruiser front springs.
driver side 2.75" wide, 43" long, 21.5" hanger to center pin (military wrap end to center pin)
passenger side 2.75" wide, 43.5" long, and 22" from factory shackle end to center pin.

I figure my measurements are all within .25-.50" +/-, I was using a steel tape so it didnt flex great.


I am attempted to try another set of cruiser front springs and keeping these as emergency backups, but flipping the others to where the military wrap is at the front / hanger side and hoping they stay together, maybe add an additional strap front and rear to hold em together better from the start.


Still open to suggestions and other options and measurements.
 
Im just going to restate what others have said,

All you need to do is put the millitary wrap in the correct place, Flip and ReDrill the main and Millitary Leaf.. use a Masonary bit..

Ive run my OEM Stock Front Leafs like this for 10 years, the past 2 being rather hard on the rig, and ive never had an issue with them. they still have a decent shape to them!
 
I have always hear the recommendation to use a masonry bit but never understood why.

When I redrilled the leaves in my custom pack I used a standard 120 degree carbide drill bit at the size I wanted and drilled all of the holes I needed with no issues. I used a bridgeport like a drill press.
 
Im just going to restate what others have said,

All you need to do is put the millitary wrap in the correct place, Flip and ReDrill the main and Millitary Leaf.. use a Masonary bit..

Ive run my OEM Stock Front Leafs like this for 10 years, the past 2 being rather hard on the rig, and ive never had an issue with them. they still have a decent shape to them!

I agree with this plan . Redrill with a die grinder . Round nose bit 3/8" diameter works well . Factory leaves are tough . If they are setup properly . You can redrill the ubolt plates to get about 1.5 " of more wheelbase .
 
Here are some more pics with measurements

Front and rear 60 series springs.

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Hope that helps,
Brittain
 
I use this site all the time when trying to find the correct springs for projects. Their measurements have been spot on every time I have checked. Might come in handy to you

www.generalspringkc.com
 

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