The great ONSC garage thread

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Depending on where the pit is, you could have stairs come up out from underneath where the worked car sits at rest.

For guys who do all their own maintenance, I dream of driving the vehicle up, walking underneath and changing out the oil. Might be too much of a fantasy, but I'd love to integrate it into the shop I build.
 
I agree with Speedrye and would stick build it if I had to do it over again. Even more room than with a pre-fab truss. I'd just put a collar tie about a third of the way down from the ceiling and bolt with 1/2 bolts. What do you think about that Speedrye? I'll probably build another down here once I buy a place ;)

I think on my next garage I'll use a web truss for the floor with a stick built roof to maximize useable storage and have a stronger floor vs using a prefabbed truss. I like the web truss for ease of running wires and pipes.

For AC and heat I'd go for a mini split system. Fast and cheap vs an air handler. Mo bettah than a window unit.

Yup, so long as you keep your collar ties in the upper third, you're good to go. Attachment is up to up, but I'd probably prefer some Simpson straps so you distribute the load on to more of the rafters. I've become a big fan of open web trusses as well for floor systems, but some suppliers are better than others.
 
If you call UFP, Weyerhaeuser, Georgia Pacific or whatever - and ask to speak to an engineer they will go over the spans and options with you at no charge. You can also find it all online. Recently, I used an LPI42+ to build an addition over my garage it's similar to a TJI but uses beefy 2x4 sized laminated wood so it has less deflection. I talked to the engineer several times and was able to get a bunch of very handy info and go over options of open truss vs. a wood I beam. There is a great article in Fine Home Building from a year or two ago of the various pros and cons of the popular floor truss systems. You can probably look it up online if you do a trial of their website.

Several smaller doors are much stronger than one big door in regards the building racking - not sure how much NC cars about seismic loads or wind shear. I personally like 3 car garages with three doors, an over sized two car with two doors and a normal 2 car with one door. If you do decide to a 16" foot wide single door you can beef up the header with a paralam and take it all the way to the corner then pot a shear panel on both sides. You can build them or buy them. I can send you some info on how to if you'd like.

If you do a lot of fabrication, have the slab put in flat instead of at at angle sloping to the door as required by code.

I do whatever you could to avoid a pole or lolly column unless the building was huge.

Are pits legal here in NC? There are not where I lived in VA.

I love how you can have a sink in the garage down here, too cold up in N. VA.


Great info. I'm going to have to hurry up and slow down so we can work out the details.
 
I do not agree on few windows. One of the features I really like about my shop are the large windows that run from about 4' to 12' ceiling height, natural light is a good thing for sure. A small bathroom would be nice for sure.

One thing I want to do in the future is to get my compressor OUTSIDE, sucker is loud.

Slant your floor, either all in one direction and out a door or to a central or several drains. Whomever did my shop floor was very good. Dead level (within 1/8") side to side at any point you check with a laser level and a consistant slope. Makes doing anything where level is important far easier.

LOTS of lighting, put switched outlets on the ceiling. With wall outlets, plan out your outlets, then double them. Put a couple on the ceiling too so you can install a retractable line out in the center of the open space. A couple 220 outlets are good as well for things like a welder. More often than not you will need a cord so that you can move the welder around the shop.

Something I use often are two chain hoists that run on a two trollies. The I-beam is about 3/4 in from the door rather than the standard half way. This is perfect for pulling an engine as the vehicle can come in with the door closed behind it. I use the chain hoists for all sorts oof things, even holding items being painted.

Ceiling fans are good to circulate air.

I do not require AC but I do need heat. I use a wood stove with good results. Ceiling fans and portable fans do fine circulating the air. I do not think a central HVAC system is needed. Most shops produce a pretty fair amount of dust that can become a problem keeping an HVAC system clean. For wood shops a stand alone air filtration system is a good idea.

At least one "back" door. Think FIRE!!! What we do often involves sparks etc. Having an alternate exit could save your life.
 
I will agree also with the electrical. I had a bunch ran in mine but am getting ready to double / triple it. Least I have a separate 200 system to my garage. Plenty of power out there.
 
I do not agree on few windows. One of the features I really like about my shop are the large windows that run from about 4' to 12' ceiling height, natural light is a good thing for sure. A small bathroom would be nice for sure.

One thing I want to do in the future is to get my compressor OUTSIDE, sucker is loud.

Slant your floor, either all in one direction and out a door or to a central or several drains. Whomever did my shop floor was very good. Dead level (within 1/8") side to side at any point you check with a laser level and a consistant slope. Makes doing anything where level is important far easier.

LOTS of lighting, put switched outlets on the ceiling. With wall outlets, plan out your outlets, then double them. Put a couple on the ceiling too so you can install a retractable line out in the center of the open space. A couple 220 outlets are good as well for things like a welder. More often than not you will need a cord so that you can move the welder around the shop.

Something I use often are two chain hoists that run on a two trollies. The I-beam is about 3/4 in from the door rather than the standard half way. This is perfect for pulling an engine as the vehicle can come in with the door closed behind it. I use the chain hoists for all sorts oof things, even holding items being painted.

Ceiling fans are good to circulate air.

I do not require AC but I do need heat. I use a wood stove with good results. Ceiling fans and portable fans do fine circulating the air. I do not think a central HVAC system is needed. Most shops produce a pretty fair amount of dust that can become a problem keeping an HVAC system clean. For wood shops a stand alone air filtration system is a good idea.

At least one "back" door. Think FIRE!!! What we do often involves sparks etc. Having an alternate exit could save your life.

Some good points.

I'm seriously torn on the windows. I'm in your camp when it comes to liking a lot of natural light but am seriously heavy with items that hog wall space. Drill press, hydraulic press, parts washer, several tool chests (which really need to be resolved into one war wagon), etc. On the other hand I can see placing windows high enough that they clear work benches as very possible.

Some form of back door is a must. In addition to the fire safty is being able to have good cross flow of air on warm days. Ideal would be something wide enough (double doors perhaps) that would allow getting a lawn tractor (60" deck) in and out.

Separate space for the compressor = YES. I've gotten to that age where I like working (and talking) without having a lot of noise. That will include the need for a quality sound system which no one has mentioned yet. I believe it will be close enough to my current router for wireless internet.

Garage will certainly need to have its own 200A service. I do have a nice 50 foot 220V 8ga extension cord but having multiple 50 A 220 outlets is a plus.

Ceiling receptacles and retractable cord = good idea. Thanks.

Ceiling fans = Yes. I use a large squirrel fan for getting exhaust gases out of the garage now but I don't wish to listen to it all the time.

If a lift goes in I'm guessing 2 post would be my preference. So very often I would like to lift just a few inches to pull off wheels and get at brakes, bearings, and just rotate tires. There may even be a day I get crazy and want to do another body removal, which last time involved a lot of 4x4's, jack stands, and a some vodoo. Is there a 4 post lift that does not use drive on ramps?

What are thoughts on inside wall material? Thick sheet rock to help with mounting? Is there such a thing as a white finish (for good lighting) that is both easy to clean but is not glossy and is fire resistant? Perhaps the wise thing is to make all the equipment and benches easy enough to pull away from the wall that slapping on another coat of paint can be a day job (also making the floor easier to clean)

I visited a neighbor yesterday to tour the new detached garage/bonus room he just finished. 2 cars downstairs and his man-cave theater upstairs. Two single doors only 8 feet wide and only 24 feet wide total = way too small. I offset the picture to show how he ran the concrete into his backyard.

garage-1.webp
 
Some good points.

I'm seriously torn on the windows. I'm in your camp when it comes to liking a lot of natural light but am seriously heavy with items that hog wall space. Drill press, hydraulic press, parts washer, several tool chests (which really need to be resolved into one war wagon), etc. On the other hand I can see placing windows high enough that they clear work benches as very possible.

Consider skylights for added light as well. I know it seems a little oddball for a garage, but they do work nicely.

I had 8 in a garage I had spec'd out a few years ago. I was about three days from signing a contract to have it built when I got a job transfer ..... some day I'll have that 6 car garage with a 2 bedroom apartment above ....
 
Consider skylights for added light as well. I know it seems a little oddball for a garage, but they do work nicely.

I had 8 in a garage I had spec'd out a few years ago. I was about three days from signing a contract to have it built when I got a job transfer ..... some day I'll have that 6 car garage with a 2 bedroom apartment above ....

I don't object to skylights but with the bonus room upstairs that's where the light will be going. I'm definitely a believer in bright lights and lots of them.

I like your 6 car/apartment idea. In a way I believe the HOA constraints are a good thing to help reel me in from an otherwise uncontrolled stroll down fantasy lane.
 
Not going off subject but for a second here.


But.


You can keep those HOA's to yourselves.

Back to garages now. Mine is way too small.

Agreed. If a 40 x 60 tall metal building was allowed in my backyard I would build it and, lets face it, I will be spending a lot on brick that could otherwise be $$ used on extra square feet and man toys. But since I'm in this boat I may as well swim with it and make it the nicest garage I can in spite of them.

THEN, we can have the required ONSC garage warming and wrenching party.
 
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Some items to add to the official list:


1. Outside water
2. Outside receptacles
3. Good outside lighting
4. Outside air coupling
 
Not trying to change your mind but it's super easy to drive onto the 4 post lift, then use the sliding jack to lift up the car and set some jack stands up. Faster on a sports car where you have to lay down to position the arms and pads of a 42 post.

You also can't open the door with some 2 posts and short wheelbase vehicles like a 40 like to nose dive off them if setup wrong because all the weight is up front and you can't position the pads very far apart.

It's all about personal preference.

One great thing is to run a 50 amp 220 line back to the main house from the garage so that you can back feed the panel in the main house from a generator running in the garage if the power is out. Also run a wire for a security cam, phone and cable TV. Bury them with the pex lines from the main house for water.
 
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I've always wanted an I-Beam running across the cieling for pulling engines and the like. Someone mentioned that earlier.My garage only has plugs on one side. Total PITA! Hose reels and electrical reels in the overhead would be super nice too. All in all great ideas from everyone. You can always put in narrow but long horizontal window runs nears the ceiling for natural light without giving up wall space.
 
My garage only has plugs on one side. Total PITA! Hose reels and electrical reels in the overhead would be super nice too. All in all great ideas from everyone. You can always put in narrow but long horizontal window runs nears the ceiling for natural light without giving up wall space.

I always hang a pull down cord for the garage door opener on the ceiling. Got mine from Sears. Pretty handy for running a buffer or to vacuum the wife's car.

You can add a bunch of outlets by surface mounting them with the grey plastic PVC conduit and matching boxes sold by Lowes and HD . Fast and pretty cheap if you do it DIY. You could run all the outlets you'd need in just a few hours as long as you have access to the panel. Code says they have to be GFI in a garage up in VA but not sure about down here.

Bust one through the wall add a weather proof box for working in the driveway or for your Christmas lights. Works great for running the shop vac outside.
 
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