Builds “The Dude”: New Owner w/ Basket Case FJ60 (2 Viewers)

[FishTacos]

I think I got those flanges on rockauto too.


Yep. I just checked. Walker 31891. You can surely get them on amazon or at napa if you prefer. If you can mig weld, or know someone who can, it is pretty straightforward to make a custom exhaust system from the downpipe back. The OD of the downpipe is 2 1/8 so once you get that flange welded on you have a lot of options for catalytic converters and muffler on the cheap. I like that myself because as parts fail farther back its all just plug-and-play. Also, that diameter has a cheap fel-pro donut gasket that is in stock at almost every auto parts store.

Edit: get a jar or tube of HIGH-TEMP anti-seize. In 8 years when you need a new muffler you can send me a PM to thank me. Put it on your intake/exahaust studs too

 

[js0k]

I just installed that tail pipe on my 60 a couple of months ago. Fit is pretty good.

I also got a universal catalytic converter and walker muffler with very similar specs to the oem.

Put them together like this:

Awesome, thanks! Looks like I’ll be picking it up and whipping up something similar.

You're saying the vac advance port doesn't hold vacuum? You can use the other port for vac advance in a pinch.

Ideally, you send the distributor to Jim Chenoweth (tlc performance) and he will recurve your advance for a desmoged engine. You may want to get a backup dizzy in the mean time or buy one to send out and attach the good vac port on yours to advance while you wait.

BTW, you're making really good progress on The Dude. Good luck.

I’m sure I’ll send one to Jim in the future but I want to try this first:

Builds - The Rushing Turdle

For now I’m just going to keep chipping away at the rest of the truck and see how she runs as-is while hunting for a good dizzy.

 

[js0k]

I think I got those flanges on rockauto too.


Yep. I just checked. Walker 31891. You can surely get them on amazon or at napa if you prefer. If you can mig weld, or know someone who can, it is pretty straightforward to make a custom exhaust system from the downpipe back. The OD of the downpipe is 2 1/8 so once you get that flange welded on you have a lot of options for catalytic converters and muffler on the cheap. I like that myself because as parts fail farther back its all just plug-and-play. Also, that diameter has a cheap fel-pro donut gasket that is in stock at almost every auto parts store.

Edit: get a jar or tube of HIGH-TEMP anti-seize. In 8 years when you need a new muffler you can send me a PM to thank me. Put it on your intake/exahaust studs too

Double thanks! I had been looking for the flanges online but didn’t really know what to search, that’s much cheaper than what I almost bought! The $20ea “land cruiser” flanges on eBay had me want to just clamp it.

 

[FishTacos]

Double thanks! I had been looking for the flanges online but didn’t really know what to search, that’s much cheaper than what I almost bought! The $20ea “land cruiser” flanges on eBay had me want to just clamp it.

The toyota flanges are unique. I saw that too. Made me want to get my machinist friend to laser cut a crapload to spec and sell them for $10. If you use the toyota catalytic converter you need them. I don't really think there is much that's special about the toyota cat if you're not doing a concours resto....and who does that anyway. It's not a Ferrari....this isn't a Hudson forum.

 

[js0k]

The toyota flanges are unique. I saw that too. Made me want to get my machinist friend to laser cut a crapload to spec and sell them for $10. If you use the toyota catalytic converter you need them. I don't really think there is much that's special about the toyota cat if you're not doing a concours resto....and who does that anyway. It's not a Ferrari....this isn't a Hudson forum.

Yeah, with what this poor LC has been through some rockauto flanges aren’t gonna hurt a bit. Do you happen to remember which PN muffler you got? Rockauto is out of the FJ60 walkers.

Your friend with the K&T mill? That thing is sweet! Just out of curiosity, do you know if he can resurface heads on it?

 

[FishTacos]

Yeah, with what this poor LC has been through some rockauto flanges aren’t gonna hurt a bit. Do you happen to remember which PN muffler you got? Rockauto is out of the FJ60 walkers.

Your friend with the K&T mill? That thing is sweet! Just out of curiosity, do you know if he can resurface heads on it?

Walker 17825

And as far as head (or I/E manifold) machining goes, the shipping to Madison, WI and back will be more than you will spend at a reputable machinist locally. The heads are pretty straightforward. The I/E manifold machining is another story. In Texas there has to be someone that has done at least a handful of them. The trick is in the process. Particularly because it sounds like you want to separate them and put in a block off plate.

Talk to the folks in your local clubhouse. The I/E manifold has had a nearly identical design since 1974. And that wasnt a big change since 1961 or whatever.

 

[js0k]

Walker 17825

And as far as head (or I/E manifold) machining goes, the shipping to Madison, WI and back will be more than you will spend at a reputable machinist locally. The heads are pretty straightforward. The I/E manifold machining is another story. In Texas there has to be someone that has done at least a handful of them. The trick is in the process. Particularly because it sounds like you want to separate them and put in a block off plate.

Talk to the folks in your local clubhouse. The I/E manifold has had a nearly identical design since 1974. And that wasnt a big change since 1961 or whatever.

Oh I know, already got my head skimmed locally for a cool $100, was just wondering because a buddy has been trying to sell me on getting a K&T as a first machine instead of a bridgeport. I know knee mills aren’t any good for resurfacing heads but the way the flycutter was on the K&T looked suitable for heads if it has enough travel. Could probably almost justify getting one if it could resurface heads. Hehe

 

[FishTacos]

Oh....I misread that.

Get a bridgeport. It's the small block Chevy of milling machines. No question about the matter. Take your time and get a good one. Not from a high school. Or a tech school for that matter. Auction. Old timer. Guy that had it in his garage as a hobbyist since 1975.

 

[FishTacos]

Or south bend. Or if money is no object a newer machine.

Here in Wisconsin we are lucky. The K&T stuff that was made for the war effort have been set aside since 1965. Probably not so much in Texas. On the other hand you guys have intact rocker panels.....so there's that.

 

[js0k]

Oh....I misread that.

Get a bridgeport. It's the small block Chevy of milling machines. No question about the matter. Take your time and get a good one. Not from a high school. Or a tech school for that matter. Auction. Old timer. Guy that had it in his garage as a hobbyist since 1975.

I hear ya on that, it‘a just all hard to find down here, especially in decent condition.

Or south bend. Or if money is no object a newer machine.

Here in Wisconsin we are lucky. The K&T stuff that was made for the war effort have been set aside since 1965. Probably not so much in Texas. On the other hand you guys have intact rocker panels.....so there's that.

Ahhhh, you’re in WI, Milwaukee is in WI, I’m putting the pieces together, K&Ts must be as plentiful there as Bridgeports are in Connecticut.

 

[FishTacos]

I hear ya on that, it‘a just all hard to find down here, especially in decent condition.




Ahhhh, you’re in WI, Milwaukee is in WI, I’m putting the pieces together, K&Ts must be as plentiful there as Bridgeports are in Connecticut.

Yeah. Bridgeports are among to more broadly available though. Made until early 2000s in Connecticut and then Hardinge bought the line. Still made I believe.

K&T closed up shop in the mid 1950s. I love the horizontal mills, never used the knee type verticals...Bridgeport has soooooo much more parts support and tooling options. DRO is easier too from what I hear. I'm no machinist. I have a baby Atlas lathe and and old jig borer that is basically a hopped up drill press with a tilting 3 axis table. Always looking for a steal on a smaller bridgeport knee mill.

 

[js0k]

Yeah. Bridgeports are among to more broadly available though. Made until early 2000s in Connecticut and then Hardinge bought the line. Still made I believe.

K&T closed up shop in the mid 1950s. I love the horizontal mills, never used the knee type verticals...Bridgeport has soooooo much more parts support and tooling options. DRO is easier too from what I hear. I'm no machinist. I have a baby Atlas lathe and and old jig borer that is basically a hopped up drill press with a tilting 3 axis table. Always looking for a steal on a smaller bridgeport knee mill.

Me too, good luck with your search! Look closer at the K&Ts though... a buddy in CT who has multiple Bridgeports is a K&T freak now... says a horizontal with a vertical head is all you will ever need... anyways, I should probably get back to talking about the land cruiser I'm currently rolling around under, lol

 

[FishTacos]

Me too, good luck with your search! Look closer at the K&Ts though... a buddy in CT who has multiple Bridgeports is a K&T freak now... says a horizontal with a vertical head is all you will ever need... anyways, I should probably get back to talking about the land cruiser I'm currently rolling around under, lol

Yeah. Sorry for the derail.

 

[js0k]

Might make build threads for some of my other MUD friendly projects but for now I’ll just introduce them here as an explanation of why progress can be slow on the dude!

The Sarge, now back at his home but I have lots of pics and vids of what it took to make a driver out of a roller and a pile of parts.

The party runner, generic name I know but it really is a party runner. Got this thing running today (bad starter and Circuit Opening Relay). Next step is a knuckle rebuild with new pass side knuckle (old one is broken- PSC hydrosteer pushing against a track was too much for it) and then it can get some cosmetic help from the bed lined 87.

Most recent acquisition is this 1989 FJ62. It’s nice but I like the dude better. Patiently waiting in the queue.

 

[FishTacos]

Nice 4runners.

IFS still looks like. I've got a '90 "Hilux" DLX that I'm working on. There is a 95 and older section on mud. I'm sure folks there would love to see those.

 

[js0k]

Progress has been slow on the dude as I’ve been spending a lot of my time wrapping a couple other projects up to get them out of here. Parts have been trickling in- will get a parts pile pic when the last item I need is here- either a good distributor or a good vac advance unit. Have exhaust pipe and accessories, new plugs and wires, MSD 8464, heat riser plate, AC parts, etc.

Got the ground wires and negative cables sorted. I could crank it now but don’t want to lose my perfect top dead center as I’ll be pulling and reinstalling the distrib after swapping the vac advance and recurving it.

Also bought another 85 4runner, which definitely isn’t going to distract me from the dude. It kind of matches

 

[js0k]

Picked up a Trekker a couple weeks ago! Had been eyeing it since last April. This one is gonna be super cool! Will probably make MUD threads for it and the better of my two ‘85 4runners. Made some progress on the dude tonight but I figured I’d share this here as a reason the dude is taking so long. I see the light at the end of the tunnel though! Will post a dude update tonight or tomorrow.

 

[js0k]

Made some progress on the dude last night, now I’m just about at the point that I can turn the key.

This thing must’ve run like crap! Not only was the vac advance not working, the advance bushing was gone.

After a long search I found a vac advance unit on here (thanks to @4Cruisers). Pulled the distrib, and in addition to swapping out the vac advance I threw in a #8 1/4 1/4 aluminum advance bushing and replaced the worn out original advance springs with ones from the MSD 8464 kit. Set the signal generator air gap to .012 and she should now be good to go. Put a fresh 20x3mm nitrile O ring from my harbor freight assortment on before slipping the distrib back in. I consulted the Haynes manual that came with my FJ62 for the first time and it said to install the distrib with the drilled mark facing up. Didn’t see anything about that in the FSM but whatever, we’ll see if it works.

Now I just need to throw on new plugs and wires (and marvel mystery oil each cylinder for good measure), finish up a couple coolant hoses, install and fill radiator, figure out exhaust and turn the key?

For a nice, quick, lazy exhaust solution I’m looking to reduce from the 2 1/8 OD downpipe to 2” ID flex pipe. Clamp the flex pipe to a muffler (looking at Walker 17198), connect that to my 2” exhaust pipe, call it good for now.

 

[js0k]

She’s alive! Well, kind of. Gurgled to life for a few seconds at a time w/ gas in the carb, my jump box and battery were dead before gas could make its way from the tank.

What little I heard sounded good, but I do have a fairly big concern. The coolant is getting pressurized even from just cranking.

I’d like to blame this on the water pump and bleeding the system but that’s not what it seems like. Coolant is spraying out like it’s overheating after running for a few seconds (after lots of cranking).

The head is crack-free (magnafluxed). The block didn’t have any visible cracks and the shop that pulled the engine said it had 150PSI across the board.

Could this be a complication of shaving the head 70 thou or did I screw up the HG install? I had to drill reliefs in the head to accomodate the alignment dowels, maybe I didn't go deep enough? Re-torque the head bolts?

Or could this be due to something else? Won’t have time to compression test for a few days, for now I can only think about it... any ideas?

 

[js0k]

Vid of its first run, coolant bubbling and all!



Retorqued the head bolts and it seems like it helped. Have a couple other things to try before reporting back, those might happen next week.