The Definitive SUA Lift Thread

[Zhenya]

List of Threads / Tips / Tools / Links for anyone preparing to do a lift on their 60 / 62.
-----------------------------------

Don't let this post overwhelm you, you can definitely do this. I am a pansy-ass office-ridden engineer, and did this by myself with the right tools in two leisurely days.


Prep

Which Tools to use:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/280692-fj-60-old-man-emu-install-my-tips.html


Install

General Install:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/245330-fj62-ome-lift-installed.html

Lift one Man job:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/595113-my-ome-install-one-man-job-my-tips.html

Suspension Install Sequence:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/573951-suspension-install-sequence.html

Man-A-Fre Leafspring Installation Instructions:
http://www.man-a-fre.com/technical_info/60seriesleafspringsuspension.htm


Details

Cruiser Outfitters OME Tech Page:
http://cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_OME_leaf_tech.html

Caster Shims:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/159526-caster-shims-ome-front-springs.html
Post #25

Jack stand Placement:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/519504-dumb-question-about-doing-lift.html

Rubber rear pad:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/513251-need-quick-ome-lift-install-question.html

Torque Values
All values are listed in FT-LB

• U-bolts - 90 (fsm calls for 105)
• Shackle 22 mm full nut - 60
• Shackle 22 mm half nut(zerk side) - 30
• Fixed Pin 22mm - 60
• Fixed pin Retaining Bolt - 17
• Front Shocks: Top stud mount @ Frame - 19
• Front Shocks: Bottom Mount @ Axle - 47
• Rear Shocks: Top Mount @ Frame - 47
• Rear Shocks: Bottom Mount @ Axle - 27

Additional Parts suggested

• 90 degree Grease fitting - (general replacement size 1/4" 28 )
  
  McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#1/4"-28-grease-nipples/=kyb7z1
  Lowe's: Part # Item #: 218980
  A 90 degree fitting is recommended for the exhaust side upper shackle grease fitting. If use the one provided you will have to loosen your exhaust to access to the fitting​
• Napa extended brake lines 22 1/2": Napa UP 38009 (Kurtis)
  http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=UBK38009_0331671144
  Attributes:
  Hose End Type 1 : M10 x 1.0 Male
  Hose End Type 2 : M10 x 1.0 Female
  Overall Length : 22"
• Extended breather hose:
  
• Replacement small bolt that holds the fixed end pin in place
  M8x20 - metric 8mm

Shooting Trouble
Do your own alignment:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/76961-do-your-own-alignment.html

Steering wheel not straight: (start with post #5)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/647032-fj60-steering-wheel-misalignment.html

Cruiser Lean:
Looking for a good thread

Stinkbug:
Looking for a good thread

Driveline vibrations:
Looking for a good thread

Other issues?

While You're Down There

Body lift / puck replacement:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/383596-body-lift-pics-parts.html

Axle Paint Inspiration:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/141404-out-hibernation-2.html

Axle Paint Discussion:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/271441-axle-housing-clean-up.html



Assembly tips:

• firmly block the other tires. When doing the front axle, set the e-brake. When doing the rear axle, lock the front hubs and put the truck in 4WD. (KLF)
  
• yea get a couple good jack stands to put under the frame in front of the spring hangers, then 2 more to go under the axle, pull both tires. best to just do one corner at a time. the other side kinds holds things in place. (slacker24-7)
• I always jack the truck up using my floor jack under the spring perches on the axle, and then place jack stands under the frame right behind the bumper. When working on the front end, I also place jackstands under the frame behind the leading edge of the front doors. Belts and suspenders. Then I let the floor jack down so the vehicle settles onto the jack stands. Before I get under it, I shake it really hard to make sure it is going to stay put. I have 8 jack stands--four 6 ton, two 12 ton that reach way up, and two 2 ton that I use for axles.(slcfj62)
• Cheap Extended Brake lines:SS lines are a waste of $ IMO. just go to napa and order two stock lines for each side and screw them together for your extended brake lines....Only $6 for extended lines! (alaska60)
• The military wrap should be on the non shackled mount.(rcj1)
• The plus sign (symbol) or minus sign (symbol) does not indicate the orientation of the leaf spring.(rcj1)
• Mount the leaf spring with the wrapped end in the middle of the vehicle and the non-wrapped end on the outside (closest to front/rear bumper).(rcj1)
• Don't be afraid to ask questions (rcj1)
  
• You should also not tighten everything completely until the weight of the truck is on the new suspension.(RMP&O)
  
• Remember to remove the grease zerk from the slip joint of the drive shaft. (Rigger)
• If fitting the rear spacer the spring pin, fit it to the spring before attaching the spring(Zhenya)
• When removing the shackle pin, spin the nut off till the edge of the pin, do not take it all the way off. Now you have a bigger surface area to hammer on, and you won't mushroom the pin.(Zhenya)
• Keep the u-bolts loose until both sides of the axles have the spring pins in the right place (Zhenya)
• The Zerks and half-nuts go on the OUTSIDE of the chassis (Zhenya)

Recommended Tools:
(wngrog, aktaku, Zhenya)

Mandatory:

• 4 quality jackstands
• Floor Jack
• 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21mm , 22mm sockets (deep)
• A nice punch set - Push the pins through the hangers
• rubber mallet
• 3' breaker bar
• Pickle fork or gear puller for steering stabilizer removal (Elbert and BG_TX)
• Napa Auto part number for pickle fork BK 7769065
  
  Tie Rod Removal tool on amazon (lovetoski)​
• Vice grip- to help work the hanger pin out

Optional (good for rougher rigs)

• Angle Grinder
• Heat source - cutting torch or propane torch
• 5# and 12# sledge hammers
• Air chisel (optional, but nice to have)
• Impact wrench
• Sawzall
• ratchet straps/come along
• Cutoff wheel to cut down the u-bolts (BG_TX)

Tire/wheel combo that fit

• BFGoodrich - AT T/A KO 33x10.50xR15 / Stock Wheel
• 31x10.50xR15 / Stock Wheel

Tire/wheel combo that rub

• 35 12.50x15" BFG AT's on 10" wide rims (Mace)

Other Threads:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/506131-ome-lift-install-question.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/602434-tools-needed-my-lift-kit-install.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/579358-what-else-do-while-putting-lift.html

 

[aktaku]

I am almost done with my OME lift on my 88 FJ62. I did it all alone (except for a couple of calls to Kurt and some lurking on here). I would be more than happy to answer questions. I would recommend at least 4 good jack stands, good floor jack, heavy ratchet straps/come along and bottle jack. The hardest parts was convincing the axles to line up with the springs.

 

[Elbert]

For SUA you are basically swapping out parts. You will need new front sway bar extend links and new rear sway bar extended links if you have a rear sway bar. Outside of that you are really just trading old parts for new. You might want to install new brake hoses too (longer versions).

 

[SNLC]

For SUA you are basically swapping out parts.

Totally agree unless you are using that MAF/4+ shackle reversal kit. Putting that in creates some major dramas, IMHO. It did for me anyways. With a C&T though it worked out to be one of the best 4wd set ups I have ever had. In the short time I owned it anyways. Handled better than my 04 Tacoma. I would never use that kit again but for how we set it up, it worked out very nicely.

Info here...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/489859-rmp-os-1984-fj60-v8-lockers-more-6.html

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Great thread!

If there is anything I can help out with, please ask. We deal with these on a daily basis and would love to have a killer thread like this to point customers to for late night reading and researching

 

[Elbert]

I bought my heavy/heavy OME setup from Kurt and I've not had any issues. I think I bought the delux kit or whatever it is called that had most of the required parts. Basically I put the truck up on 4 jack stands (supporting the frame front and back) took the tires off and used a floor jack to move the axle around and a small ratchet strap and it was a process of remove and install. If you live in the rust belt or your truck is from the rust belt you may have some issues with getting the old bushings out and potentially old bolts loose etc. I installed the above in one day...another person helping makes it easier to wrestle with the new spring packs and getting things lined up. Certainly a single day project you can do at home without any special tools. I used the ratchet strap to help get the spring pack properly positioned so I could install the bolts etc... Or find a person to help you out.

All of my old bushings came out easy as well as all the bolts came out easy too, not true for eveeryone, that's where heat and maybe a sawzal would be good to have, also some people just cut the old spring bolts off to save time. I would say the biggest aggravation in my case was getting the OEM steering stabilizer off. I tried a puller but I ended up breaking that...resorted to a properly sized "Pickle Fork" tool. I finally decided that it was no more mr. nice guy and the stabilizer was coming off come hell or high water... and I beat the #$%#$ out of the pickle fork to get the stabilizer to finally come loose...I was using something like a 5lb hammer.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I bought my heavy/heavy OME setup from Kurt and I've not had any issues. I think I bought the delux kit or whatever it is called that had most of the required parts. Basically I put the truck up on 4 jack stands (supporting the frame front and back) took the tires off and used a floor jack to move the axle around and a small ratchet strap and it was a process of remove and install. If you live in the rust belt or your truck is from the rust belt you may have some issues with getting the old bushings out and potentially old bolts loose etc. I installed the above in one day...another person helping makes it easier to wrestle with the new spring packs and getting things lined up. Certainly a single day project you can do at home without any special tools. I used the ratchet strap to help get the spring pack properly positioned so I could install the bolts etc... Or find a person to help you out.

Ultimate kit


I generally recommend a full day, as in a full Saturday or Sunday. Better yet give yourself both to tackle the job. Generally speaking, plan on 6-8 hours to pull all the old stuff off and clean and prep for the new parts. Plan on 3-5 hours to re-install all of the new parts.

 

[Zhenya]

Great thread!

If there is anything I can help out with, please ask. We deal with these on a daily basis and would love to have a killer thread like this to point customers to for late night reading and researching

Kurt,
Great to see you in here. Any responses, I will add to the top post with credit.
I think the first few questions would be:

• Could you list all the torque specs for the OME bolts
• All the places (or rule) on where to grease the new stuff
• Discuss the shims for 2.5" lift

Ultimate kit


I generally recommend a full day, as in a full Saturday or Sunday. Better yet give yourself both to tackle the job. Generally speaking, plan on 6-8 hours to pull all the old stuff off and clean and prep for the new parts. Plan on 3-5 hours to re-install all of the new parts.

• What do you generally recommend get cleaned up and refreshed while the springs are off?
• Do you recommend doing 1 corner at a time

Thank you for your input!!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Kurt,
Great to see you in here. Any responses, I will add to the top post with credit.
I think the first few questions would be:

• Could you list all the torque specs for the OME bolts
• All the places (or rule) on where to grease the new stuff
• Discuss the shims for 2.5" lift

• What do you generally recommend get cleaned up and refreshed while the springs are off?
• Do you recommend doing 1 corner at a time

Thank you for your input!!

Quite the list, lemme hack at that one tomorrow

 

[90FJ]

For SUA you are basically swapping out parts. You will need new front sway bar extend links and new rear sway bar extended links if you have a rear sway bar. Outside of that you are really just trading old parts for new. You might want to install new brake hoses too (longer versions).

.... I'm SUA, 63" Chevy rears 14" travel Bilsteins on Ford towers, front is stock pack with AAL but relocated spring hanger and 6" shackle, shock hoops and 12" Bilsteins. Yes it's an anomaly, I just wanted to throw it out there. With mini trucks you hardly ever see the same setup twice and it's rarely in kit form.

As far as kits go and this thread, I think there should be AAL and shackle links to be comprehensive as it is SUA. Also some fender trimming links for people trying to fit bigger tires and stay low.

I've installed two OME kits, way easier and comprehensive than try to piece your own together, but it can be done. OME also handles sweet on the road. I'm not sold on SR for trail use, probably handles better on-road though.

 

[Zhenya]

Quite the list, lemme hack at that one tomorrow

.... I'm SUA, 63" Chevy rears 14" travel Bilsteins on Ford towers, front is stock pack with AAL but relocated spring hanger and 6" shackle, shock hoops and 12" Bilsteins. Yes it's an anomaly, I just wanted to throw it out there. With mini trucks you hardly ever see the same setup twice and it's rarely in kit form.

As far as kits go and this thread, I think there should be AAL and shackle links to be comprehensive as it is SUA. Also some fender trimming links for people trying to fit bigger tires and stay low.

I've installed two OME kits, way easier and comprehensive than try to piece your own together, but it can be done. OME also handles sweet on the road. I'm not sold on SR for trail use, probably handles better on-road though.

If you could help me locate these threads, I will add them into the first post. Thanks.

 

[SNLC]

There is definitely some tricks to swapping in new suspension. If you don't know the tricks it can be a struggle. BTW, I was running 35's, SUA and no rub at all.

 

[SNLC]

hard to believe.

Were you running big bump stop spacers?

Not really. IIRC they were 1 or 1.5". I am sure there is something on the bump stop spacers in that thread of mine I linked. I recall using the bump stop spacers not to stop rub but to stop my high steer set up from contacting the frame rail under full compression. And check the pics in the thread, 35's stuffed and no rub. It also flexed as good as most if not all SoA set ups. I could also do 65mph in 4wd on dry pavement and had zero vibes, no bump steer, no shake, no wobble and it was a smooth as soft butter on a hot summer day! Like I say, better than my 04 Tacoma and damn near the best riding/handling 4wd I have ever owned.

I did have some rub in the rear with 10" wide rims and a 13.5 wide tire but it was on the frame rail and inside of tire sidewall. Once I got the perfect rims and a 12.5 wide tire, ie 8" rim with 3.65" b/s, it never rubbed there again.

IMHO, it is all about setting it up right.

Cheers

 

[BG_TX]

Could you list all the torque specs for the OME bolts

Torque specs are already published in the 60 series FAQ/common torque values (or an FSM).

 

[Zhenya]

Torque specs are already published in the 60 series FAQ/common torque values (or an FSM).

There were a comments from people that said when they used the Toyota torque values, they stripped the ubolts. I would like the ARB/OME spec for their u-bolt set.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

There were a comments from people that said when they used the Toyota torque values, they stripped the ubolts. I would like the ARB/OME spec for their u-bolt set.

I've never seen that happen and OME recommends torquing u-bolts to the factory spec. Along with that, all of the OME parts include instructions with torque spec, if they don't publish a torque spec, they recommend the factory spec be used. In addition we (Cruiser Outfitters) are now sending out a complimentary bonus kit of parts (sway bar links, center bolt spacers, etc and a full spec sheet) with kits ordered from us.

Haven't had a minute to get to your questions yet, customers placing orders have to come first

 

[Elbert]

I don't see anyway you will strip the u-bolts provided with the OME kit by using the OEM torque spec..
I don't know the torque values off the top of my head but there is not that much difference between the two as I recall, and it would have to be a significant difference to strip those bolts. I just don't think thats possible given that the person uses the referenced parts and decent torque wrench. As I recall the number is somewhere around 90-100 lbs?

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Torque the u-bolts to 90 foot-pounds. Then double-check the torque settings after 500 miles, and then ever so often (every 2 or 3 runs) after off-road trips.

Regards,

Alan

 

[lovetoski]

The OTC tie rod end removal tool is WAY better than a pickle fork...
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7315A-Universal-Tie-Remover/dp/B000F5LJ3M/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_2

 

[Elbert]

yes a puller is always better than a pickle fork but when you put a 1/2 drive ratchet along with a breaker bar on the puller and you get no-where with that...you resort to other tools. I did not have a source of air when I pulled the steering stabilizer and so I had to use hand tools. Apparently mine was OEM and had been on the truck from day one, which would have made it around 24 years old at the time.