lol, agreed, but its not the garage I use to wrench. And I would still have to pay to heat it every month. That'd suck big time.
The Daily Chat Thread
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If it is open below the floor, on the ceiling of the garage make sure to insulate it well.
what I did with my hot water was to make sure and try to "balance"the heat. You don't want more heat in one room than another on a single zone. If you do then nether room will be comfortable as they will be different temperature and that will create drafts.
By chance is that addition on it's own zone?
By chance is that addition on it's own zone?
My garage is heated cuz there are some water pipes that go thru it to the family room above. I have forced hot air (shop type heater) mounted on the ceiling with a thermostat. I keep it at about 50 degrees. keeps the cars warm in the morning. I click up the thermostat about 10 minutes before I do any work in the garage and it's toasty. It does waste some heat but if it's insulated and you seal the door edges, it's not all bad. Doesn't cost as much as you think and it's definitely worth it!!!
I painted that orange 40 wearing shorts and a t-shirt when it was snowing like hell outside.
Formula is length of room x the width of the room x 50 divided by 600.
IE: 10 x 10 room would require 8 feet of baseboard.
The way I do it is measure out the room and call the supply house....lol.
Also this write up is one of the better ones I have read. I think it's a little overboard though.
http://www.pmmag.com/Archives/ed49328d24fc7010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____
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when I designed my system there where different BTU rating per foot for different base board.
It's true, some claim different gains and btu's. I try not to overthink it because no matter what brand I use it dosen't seem to make much of a difference. Just my .02
If I was to do my house I would go radiant heat with a buderus boiler.
If I was to do my house I would go radiant heat with a buderus boiler.
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Mike, the Hot Dawg should be, or should have been taken care of. If not let me know why.
W.
Rust fixed, new windshield put in, and new Maine inspection sticker put on the new to me 80. Now I am ready for A lift and new tires.
what are you thinking with lift and tires?
I have the trim piece but the wire was back ordered. I'll let you know.
interested in 5 35" trxus Mts mounted of 80 steels? I need some 37s
Nice! 
I have the trim piece but the wire was back ordered. I'll let you know.
interested in 5 35" trxus Mts mounted of 80 steels? I need some 37s
I could be interested in the tires. It seem I might be founding all of your projects lately.
Lift is coming from Landtank and now I will see about his tires.
That FOR lift is silky smooth.
Much better than mine I'm sure. I see FOX shocks in my future.
Much better than mine I'm sure. I see FOX shocks in my future.
I want 37s also and what lift you get from him size wise?
The issue with running 37" tires is with the front arms. The arms are designed to work great with 0 lift but not so much with 6" of lift.
As you raise the front of an 80 it becomes more restrictive to flex as you go.
So at 6" of lift this restriction starts to rear it's ugly head and adversely effect your COG and begins to topple your truck.
IMO it's here that we need a set of custom axle brackets and arms to gain control of the flex.
Landed my first official client today. The guy called 2 other bars while I was sitting there and scheduled appointments for me. One step closer to getting a Cruiser again. great day!