I emailed him also and inquired about the shackle angle. I think he's Russian and didn't understand what I was asking. He just kept saying they were Alcan springs.
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I emailed him also and inquired about the shackle angle. I think he's Russian and didn't understand what I was asking. He just kept saying they were Alcan springs.
Ummmm Could the shackles be messed up because they ARE Alcan springs?
They are Alcan springs, I just think they are too short.
7 days and counting until my in-laws move out. Let the renovations begin! Anyone good with renovations and will work for beer? 
What are the remodel plans?
7 days and counting until my in-laws move out. Let the renovations begin! Anyone good with renovations and will work for beer?
Call me when you get to the paint part. I'll paint for beer
I'm pretty handy, but I'm expensive. I work for stout....or a good red....or fine 100% Agave Tequila. Painting, sheet rock, carpentry, and even some finish work.
W.
Need to buy some new winch line. I would rather upgrade to synthetic rope for ease of use and of course safety. I am upgrading my xd9000i to a m12000 and the weight savings of synthetic is appealing. What have you guys used? I know masterpull makes some good stuff but it's spendy. What about this? Amazon.com: Amsteel OK-ABB516A Amsteel Blue Winch Rope 5/16 in. x 100 ft.: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51CCl9SQ1IL.@@AMEPARAM@@51CCl9SQ1IL Should I go with a higher rating? Figure a loaded rig and a trailer(just in case) I should up the weight limit.
the issues that I understand wit the m12 is that the brake needs to be activated when winching. This creates a heat and can be problematic for synthetic line. I think some manufacturers us a different material for the first wrap to avoid this.
I really don't know for sure since I run a hydraulic.
I really don't know for sure since I run a hydraulic.
I can get you a deal on Masterpull stuff. I think I get 20% off.
"the issues that I understand wit the m12 is that the brake needs to be activated when winching. This creates a heat and can be problematic for synthetic line. I think some manufacturers us a different material for the first wrap to avoid this.
I really don't know for sure since I run a hydraulic."
I have been reading about that over the last few minutes. Seems that masterpull xd line has the entire synthetic rope covered so heat at the drum is not an issue with their product.
Viking Trail line is a bit cheaper but has no cover at the drum, neither does that cheaper amsteel on amazon that I was looking at.
I guess if I spend $100 to 150 more for the xd line it's worth it for the protection of the line because most failures on these lines are due to rock cuts from abrasion. Rather spend a little more the first time around then make a second purchase due to a cheap purchase.
I really don't know for sure since I run a hydraulic."
I have been reading about that over the last few minutes. Seems that masterpull xd line has the entire synthetic rope covered so heat at the drum is not an issue with their product.
Viking Trail line is a bit cheaper but has no cover at the drum, neither does that cheaper amsteel on amazon that I was looking at.
I guess if I spend $100 to 150 more for the xd line it's worth it for the protection of the line because most failures on these lines are due to rock cuts from abrasion. Rather spend a little more the first time around then make a second purchase due to a cheap purchase.
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Thanks Alex, I'll keep you posted.
Is this what you guys have in mind? Check the links to follow the project and see the final version on the trails.
Gary Coberly-Waggoner's FZJ-45 Pickup Going Up White Knuckle photo from the Car Photo Gallery
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/34899-project-x.html
Pretty Cool!
As luck would have it
I have a cheap 80 available for the project and an even cheaper FJ62 for an alternative. The 62 has a 7" shorter wheelbase than an 80 and has a strong frame that would make a nice conversion, especially sprung over. The EFI in the FJ62 is more peppy than a 2F, especially in front of a manual tranny. (Most of the complaints about the 3FE being underpowered and a gas hog are related to shift points that are too low in relation to the weight of the vehicle.) I have been thinking about putting the engine in my Tan 40, but I still haven't found the round tuit to put in the Aussie 4 speed with 3spd case that I bought 2 years ago. (I prefer wheeling to wrenching.) I also have a decent enough 40 on the cheap for the project as well. Getting rid of 2 of them in any combination of whole vehicles or parts would go a long way to justifying the new to me FJ Cruiser on my horizon!Later..........
Any architectural types lurking? I drew up some before and after plans in Google Sketch and wanted to get a second opinion on my reconfigure of our master bedroom suite.
First is to get into our new bedroom, mostly demo of walls, one new wall to create a walk in closet, new paint and flooring. Maybe a new vanity in the bathroom to tide the wife over. Then patch/paint our current bedroom and move our oldest daughter into it. Then onto the kitchen to remodel the existing cabinets, new counter tops/hardware and move the fridge back a foot. Thats the major plan with a lot of tweaking afterwards.
My father was a contractor and I worked with him when I was younger.
The first thing you need to do is to identify certain aspects of the structure. These aspects will greatly influence the cost of the renovation or it's design.
The first is load bearing walls. These are the outside walls but also includes inside walls that are used to actually hold up the structure.
Altering these walls for windows or doors is possible but will add cost and time to the renovation.
Wet walls. These are where your water, sewer and vent lines are run. So making changes here will require altering those systems and add more cost.
Adding partitions. If you are working on a wooded structured floor and want to add partitions you will need also add floor joists in the existing floor to carry the load.
Plumbing. Adding or altering your plumbing may also require some structural work to the floor or ceiling to support those changes or allow the plumbing to be done correctly. Adding a bathroom usually means adding a wet wall which is a 6" wall that allows you to run the proper pipes in it.
Electrical. Depending on your service you might be limited to how many new circuits you can add.
So my advise to is to identify these items and draw your house as it sits with just these elements in it. That way you can easily see the consequences of different design changes which will better help you control costs and stay within a budget.
Mike, if you need to move plumbing or heat let me know. I can save you a chunk of change.
Luckily, I'm working in an exisiting addition that was once one completely open bedroom and was then walled in to make separate rooms later on. I am only undoing what they did so the only thing that I have to deal with is a little electrical deletion of wall plugs. The one wall that I am adding should be a no brainer as well.
I wll need to add some more hot water baseboards. Is there a calc for how much linear heat you should have based on square footage? There definitely isnt enough existing heat with the room being over the unheated garage.
I wll need to add some more hot water baseboards. Is there a calc for how much linear heat you should have based on square footage? There definitely isnt enough existing heat with the room being over the unheated garage.
Solution is to add heat to your garage!!!!!!
I can't think if a better reason to argue with the wife that you need to heat the garage.