The Cursed Build (1 Viewer)

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I've got the heavy duty Dakar springs up front on the 87 because the added weight from the diesel and plans for an ARB front bar, front ride is much better than stock and extremely better than my last truck which was stock spring and shackle lift.

I put the medium springs on the rear and so far I can't really complain, it's pretty stiff but still better than stock. Plans for the rear will be adding a few hundred pounds in barwork and roof top tent so I'm hoping it still ends up level and comfortable enough.

After all that said, my suburban with custom front torsion bars and 6" coil spring lift in the rear was a much nicer ride hahaha. You get what you get when you ride on 4 leaf springs.
 
I really don't want to chop and weld on my frame. The Flatbed I'm building weighs a ton. We're talking 2x2 1/4 square tubing for the fram with 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 for the bracing with 11ga metal on top which is about 1/8" thick then tubing walls witha tubing headache rack, caomparment for a winch possibly. An the winch I'll have back there is a wrn 9.5TI which comes in at close to 100 pounds, than plus a tool box I'll be close to 500 pounds at least on the rear at all times. Then for the front I have a 1/4 steel bumper that weighs about 80 pounds, and an 8274 with 150 feet of 5/16" steel line. So My truck is pretty heavy, which is why I'm thinking the HD's would be the best for it.
 
Well, got the frame all painted and man it looks a lot better. I can't wait to have the flatbed on the truck as well. It'll look great! I also saw this today...its a rig with two body lifts on top of each other. So he put a piece of rectangular tubing in there for the bed..

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Well not much to update on. Just working on the flatbed, which I should be welding on the mounting point this week. Which brings me to my next question, what type of bushings do you guys run under your bed? Mine were dead and I was thinking some some round poly ones with a hole in the middle big enough to fit an M12 bolt that are about a 1/4 high.
 
The factory mount is to have a chunk of reinforced rubber between the bed and the frame. I have 1" body lift pucks that I made out of solid 6061 aluminum, and stainless bolts with nylon insert nuts. M12 hardware costs a lot more, just use 7/16". I made rubber discs out of some truck inner tube to electrically/chemically insulate the pucks from the frame so there wouldn't be any galvanic corrosion, and I put the factory rubber pieces on top of the pucks. Then I added a grounding strap from the frame to the bed with some #8 wire.
 
Thank you KLF. Another question, is the front drive line on an 84 Toyota a double cardan shaft?
 
I thought so I just wanted to make sure. Well I've done some notching on the tubing for my flatbed and will hopefully get my roll bar bent today as well
 
Thanks to CDan I was able to get a part number and order a new heater control face plate from my local Toyota dealership. I would've ordered it from him but it was the same with shipping as getting it locally. But I do plan on ordering some Toyota u-joint when I get around to re gearing my truck from him.
 
The plastic piece that's ALWAYS broken??? I thought those were discontinued! Pics?
 
Part #55519-89143. Its about $40
 
When I looked it up there were like 4 options: with heat w/o heat and with cool and w/o cool. Any idea what this means as far as appearance goes?
 
The top one is the new one, and man does it look great. I also have the part number for new knobs if you want those as well.

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So when I did the EFI swap I noticed that the tank I was going to use had no vent line. I didn't think much of it until now as summer is rolling in with warm air. What can I do to stop the pressure from building up? I can't drill and weld a hole as there's been gas in the tank but I could remove the sender unit and drill than tap a hole be a vent line but I also have no charcoal canister. Any suggestions? And thank you Toast! I really enjoy having the heater control look good again.
 
So I do have some updates on the flatbed, got the top peice all welded up and the side railings cut down. I also got 4 out of 8 brackets made and welded on with the other 4 plasma cut. Just waiting to finish OSHA training now. I was getting interested in going to MCR this year but have decided not to. I'd love to take the trail but with 31's open and a 2.5 OME lift I wouldn't be able to make it even with my two winchs. I also got another winch rebuild kit for my 9.5Ti.
 
The plastic piece that's ALWAYS broken??? I thought those were discontinued! Pics?
Available. I also purchased one recently after putting a wrench handle through mine. CDan rocks. I had the older version too, and the newer version is sexy. Looks very nice.
 
So lately I've bene thinking about some issues on my truck. I can do 75 just fine if its flat, but add hills and I can old do 60 tops. Could this be because of the gears with 31's? (I don't think so as its not a huge difference) or I'm starting to wonder if the 22r can't deal with EFI as well as a true EFI engine and that's my issue. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
Only difference between the engines (besides the intake and fuel pump) is the cam.
 
I'm thinking of changing it out for an rv can from engnbldr.
 

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