- Thread starter
- #61
Match the wheels (and Prinsu), thanks!!
I was down the "stealth"/match the paint rabbit hole...
I had actually seen sbsurfer's rig, but forgot about him since he never posts.
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Builds The Big Bad Rad Dad LX (Dissent) Build (1 Viewer)
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Match the wheels (and Prinsu), thanks!!
I was down the "stealth"/match the paint rabbit hole...
I had actually seen sbsurfer's rig, but forgot about him since he never posts.
Too expensive for them to hassle you about return shipping!Rigid support/warranty sucksssss!
It took 3 calls to get them to admit that condensation is bad. The first 2 times they told me to wait a few weeks so the "weather could equalize inside the pods".
Those wet pods eventually started to flicker and pick their own accent light, so they finally agreed to fix it. Maybe Amazon has spoiled me, but they want me to pay to ship it back to them
I can't imagine 40" @ 25lbs is going to be cheap...
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1world1love
SILVER Star
Tough call. In the end it may not make much difference. We actually had mine finished more matte than Ben’s normal coat. It was hard to tell though, when sitting next to Ben’s own truck. The FR rack is supposed to be satin. My wheels are satin and certainly seem the most Satin thing on the truck.
It’s hard to tell from photos, but my bumpers are significantly more matte than the Slee sliders, but you can see that the wheels are easily the shiniest thing on the truck and they are Icon’s idea of satin.
Everything PC will have a little different sheen anyways. Not that it really matters, but I think it lends to the authenticity of a truck. When I think of classic expedition vehicles, I don’t usually think “color coded”. Don’t get me wrong, there isn’t anything wrong with the fully color matched look. There are some amazing builds like that. I just never usually see them on the trail.
In any case, they all look the same covered in dust and mud
Love your LX. Enjoying your build thread.Tough call. In the end it may not make much difference. We actually had mine finished more matte than Ben’s normal coat. It was hard to tell though, when sitting next to Ben’s own truck. The FR rack is supposed to be satin. My wheels are satin and certainly seem the most Satin thing on the truck.
View attachment 2329295
It’s hard to tell from photos, but my bumpers are significantly more matte than the Slee sliders, but you can see that the wheels are easily the shiniest thing on the truck and they are Icon’s idea of satin.
Everything PC will have a little different sheen anyways. Not that it really matters, but I think it lends to the authenticity of a truck. When I think of classic expedition vehicles, I don’t usually think “color coded”. Don’t get me wrong, there isn’t anything wrong with the fully color matched look. There are some amazing builds like that. I just never usually see them on the trail.
In any case, they all look the same covered in dust and mud
A little frustrating that we go through all the effort of picking that perfect powder color and in the end it pretty much all looks the same
- Thread starter
- #65
Found a sweet shop in town that was the exact price that Ben pays ($575) with 7-14 day turnaround, but then paid a few extra bones to have it all ready by Monday.
Went with a smooth satin finish to match the wheels (top left sample in the pic).
Next step is to let the kids start cutting and disassembling the rig.
Went with a smooth satin finish to match the wheels (top left sample in the pic).
Next step is to let the kids start cutting and disassembling the rig.
1world1love
SILVER Star
Wow. Amazing turnaround time and very exciting. I was afraid we were going to have to wait two weeks
Leave enough vertical to put the trim onto. Have you already sourced the trim?
- Thread starter
- #69
Dissent provided trim, but I may try to roll without it. Seems like I can make a clean cut then sand it smooth.
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Family time! So awesome you got the kids involved. Probably helped distract you from the anxiety of cutting off your bumper!
I’m sure you know this but you need a gap between the body and the bumper (no matter how precise or clean you make the cut). The body flexes (even riding down the road) and will sandwich your panels against the bumper (ask me how I know). Check out my side pic above you’ll see my rear bumper has a gap (no trim). My front bumper has no gap (not good). The trim simply fills the gap for aesthetics but inadvertently is cushion as well.
This is gonna look killer man. Keep the pics coming!
I’m sure you know this but you need a gap between the body and the bumper (no matter how precise or clean you make the cut). The body flexes (even riding down the road) and will sandwich your panels against the bumper (ask me how I know). Check out my side pic above you’ll see my rear bumper has a gap (no trim). My front bumper has no gap (not good). The trim simply fills the gap for aesthetics but inadvertently is cushion as well.
This is gonna look killer man. Keep the pics coming!
1world1love
SILVER Star
Hell yeah! Excellent!
For best results, I advise that the use of sharp cutting tools ALWAYS be accompanied by the consumption of alcohol.
For best results, I advise that the use of sharp cutting tools ALWAYS be accompanied by the consumption of alcohol.
1world1love
SILVER Star
Yeah, you may be able to do it, but leaving enough clearance might create more of a gap than you want. The plus side is that you will probably want to clean the cuts anyways and if it looks good, great! If not, you can add the trim. You have the benefit of having a black truck, so the trim will be imperceptible. Even on my grey I find that it provides a finished look. Again though, you have black on black so it may not have the same effect. Still, as they say: Mind the gap!
1world1love
SILVER Star
And finally, I have to give mad props for the parenting. Most people don't understand that the real reason to have kids is for body work on luxury SUVs. All the other chumps out there have their kids unloading the dishwasher
- Thread starter
- #74
Yea, know the body flexes, but was hoping to find a happy medium to roll without it. I think I've seen 1/2 to 5/8" is ideal, or more?
I agree, black trim on black won't be the end of the world.
Ok, few questions:
1) when to use thread locker? Just the Main frame bolts or anything without a nylon washer?
2) torque specs? Stick the the Toyota recommended based on bolt strength or yolo?
i.e. I took the trail tailor tow points to 105ftlb using the Toyota table.
3) any parts worth selling?
- The crash bar/foam (might be some deep cuts in the foam from kids
. - won't be using my stock fogs
I used a rather large bulb trim on the rear and it seems to be weathering well.
- Thread starter
- #76
#demoday was a success.
Removed the rest of the junk from the front/rear and did a little rust remediation.
I knew @grinchy was going to ask, so total removed from the front was 40lbs! (Subtract 2lbs for the orange bucket).
I'm going to make a separate install thread, so I won't muck up this one with all the install steps.
Removed the rest of the junk from the front/rear and did a little rust remediation.
I knew @grinchy was going to ask, so total removed from the front was 40lbs! (Subtract 2lbs for the orange bucket).
I'm going to make a separate install thread, so I won't muck up this one with all the install steps.
1world1love
SILVER Star
1world1love
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #80
haven't looked at all the options, but the aux tank needs to easily come down. I have some squeaking that I need to have the installer look at. I suspect the tank is rubbing on some body mounts that @TeCKis300 identified in one of his posts.
