THANK YOU, and OME question

[jcrandall]

First real post here, mainly to say thank you to:
pfran42: thanks for the LED reverse lights, they are fantastic
Gunney: your write up of cranking torsion bars significantly de-mystified a process that is referred to frequently but explained infrequently
Just about everyone: Driveshaft grease until it flows, door lock actuator replacement, and running board removal

Ok, now for the quick, no bs assessment. Truck has 230K miles on it, original AHC, that randomly raises and lowers at stop lights. Not 100% of the time, but often. I feel that it about to fail, but my experience level is not high enough to be sure.

So question 1, is this random movement alone mean the AHC is one foot in the grave? Question 2, should someone with VERY limited automotive repair and modification experience, but who can follow instructions and research attempt an Old Man Emu 2.5 medium duty suspension install?

Just looking for opinions, the information I have gleaned so far from IH8MUD has been hugely valuable.

I realize the pictures are "poser pics", but whatever. The truck off roads when necessary and spends a lot of time on the highway.

 

[paflytyer]

Ok, now for the quick, no bs assessment. Truck has 230K miles on it,

I love seeing this! It means that if I take care of my rig, I have at least another 140 THOUSAND more miles to enjoy it.
Nice looking rig!

 

[10080]

Black looks nice.

 

[pfran42]

Glad you like the CREE reverse lights. I love mine!

I can only help you with number 2 as I have a LC. Before the LC I had zero mechanical experience with automobiles. After reading a few how-tos on this forum, I did the rear springs, torsion bars, and diff drop after work in two evenings. I ran into a snag or two and had to post a RTH thread about the TBs but never felt like I was in over my head. Once you figure out how to do something on one side, the other side takes about 1/3 or the time.

For me, most of these mods are about as difficult as doing intermediate tuning/repairs on a mountain bike. Read, re-read, then just follow the directions. Once you are 25% into a procedure, you start to see what exactly what the directions are trying to tell you. For example, you can really see that turning bolt A, winds up bar B and consequently lower arm C wants to push the wheel downward thus raising the vehicle.

The biggest tip I can afford you is to buy the right tools for the job. My tool inventory has exploded since I discovered this forum and the FSM manual. I love knowing that I could take this whole vehicle apart without having to make a run out to an auto parts store!

- Sent from a very small supercomputer.

 

[jcrandall]

Glad you like the CREE reverse lights. I love mine!

I can only help you with number 2 as I have a LC. Before the LC I had zero mechanical experience with automobiles. After reading a few how-tos on this forum, I did the rear springs, torsion bars, and diff drop after work in two evenings. I ran into a snag or two and had to post a RTH thread about the TBs but never felt like I was in over my head. Once you figure out how to do something on one side, the other side takes about 1/3 or the time.

For me, most of these mods are about as difficult as doing intermediate tuning/repairs on a mountain bike. Read, re-read, then just follow the directions. Once you are 25% into a procedure, you start to see what exactly what the directions are trying to tell you. For example, you can really see that turning bolt A, winds up bar B and consequently lower arm C wants to push the wheel downward thus raising the vehicle.

The biggest tip I can afford you is to buy the right tools for the job. My tool inventory has exploded since I discovered this forum and the FSM manual. I love knowing that I could take this whole vehicle apart without having to make a run out to an auto parts store!

- Sent from a very small supercomputer.

Buy the right tools and jump in - 10-4.
The FSM is the best tool I own. I have no idea why anyone would mod their truck without it.

 

[jcrandall]

Thanks for the compliments

 

[Gunney]

mmmmm, pretty Lexus

Go for it! Trust me there is little you can mess up, the suspension job is 90% persistence and man handling the bars out and in, and 10% brain... the worst case scenario is you get 1/2 way feel you’re in way above your head (this WONT happen) and you take the truck off to the garage to do the work anyway? No harm no foul.

The torsion bar/AHC topic is also one of the most covered here on the forum and the guys are always happy to help, if you get stuck, take a pic and ask.. You’ll have your answer in a matter of hours.

A quick question is what you want the lift for? Bigger Tyres? Want to start wheeling? Want to get rid of AHC? remember that the full 2.5” lift "requires" (as in you don’t have too but really should) a diff drop, extended sway bar links, possibly new CV boots and a few other niggles need to be addressed.

Let us know what your end goal is and the plethora of keyboard warriors can offer up endless advice

 

[DMX84]

It's not a hard job at all, I did mine on the garage floor. No, I don't have a FSM - that's what this forum if for.
DMX

 

[OregonLC]

Free download. This is for an 04 which, of course, will have different electronic and trans than yours.

Download PDF Toyota Land Cruiser 1998 - 2007 Service Manual | PDFTown.com

 

[jcrandall]

mmmmm, pretty Lexus

Go for it! Trust me there is little you can mess up, the suspension job is 90% persistence and man handling the bars out and in, and 10% brain... the worst case scenario is you get 1/2 way feel you're in way above your head (this WONT happen) and you take the truck off to the garage to do the work anyway? No harm no foul.

The torsion bar/AHC topic is also one of the most covered here on the forum and the guys are always happy to help, if you get stuck, take a pic and ask.. You'll have your answer in a matter of hours.

A quick question is what you want the lift for? Bigger Tyres? Want to start wheeling? Want to get rid of AHC? remember that the full 2.5" lift "requires" (as in you don't have too but really should) a diff drop, extended sway bar links, possibly new CV boots and a few other niggles need to be addressed.

Let us know what your end goal is and the plethora of keyboard warriors can offer up endless advice

Good question - the reasons for the lift are:
1, to lose the AHC. I'm sure I don't need to go too far into this, seems to be a pretty common opinion here.
2, I am about to need new tires anyway, and would rather go a little larger now than at next replacement. Honestly mainly because larger tires are cool - not because they are really needed for what I do.
3, home is Dallas, but I travel to South Dakota and Colorado frequently in the dead of winter. The AHC high setting has been necessary more than once to climb out of snow drifts on under plowed roads. Once the AHC is removed the last thing I need is to lose capability.
4, a little more wheeling, but nothing too extreme. The goal being to get to cool places, not really to test the limits.

Definitely doing the diff drop, but as for the other stuff still researching and I'm sure I'll have some more questions for y'all.

Good

 

[pfran42]

Good question - the reasons for the lift are:
1, to lose the AHC. I'm sure I don't need to go too far into this, seems to be a pretty common opinion here.
2, I am about to need new tires anyway, and would rather go a little larger now than at next replacement. Honestly mainly because larger tires are cool - not because they are really needed for what I do.
3, home is Dallas, but I travel to South Dakota and Colorado frequently in the dead of winter. The AHC high setting has been necessary more than once to climb out of snow drifts on under plowed roads. Once the AHC is removed the last thing I need is to lose capability.
4, a little more wheeling, but nothing too extreme. The goal being to get to cool places, not really to test the limits.

Definitely doing the diff drop, but as for the other stuff still researching and I'm sure I'll have some more questions for y'all.

Good

For what you are saying, I would
consider the following:

-Tires - 285s (stay at or under a 33 inch tire)
-Diff drop
-Crank up existing OEM torsion bars
-OME rear springs
-OME or 2.0 (no remote res) shocks from King, Raflo, Fox, Profender etc. If your current shocks do not have a lot of miles on them, I would also just consider keeping them and adding a little lift. (That's what I did).
-Bands for CV boots
-Sliders (Slee, BIOR, WKOR or MetalTech).

Getting to this stage (to me) presents the least amount of smaller issues that can be a pain to address (tire rub, larger decrease im MPG, loss of power due to larger tires, need for bump stops, swaybar bolts breaking, finding other storage options for spare tire, etc.)

- Sent from a very small supercomputer.

 

[jcrandall]

For what you are saying, I would
consider the following:

-Tires - 285s (stay at or under a 33 inch tire)
-Diff drop
-Crank up existing OEM torsion bars
-OME rear springs
-OME or 2.0 (no remote res) shocks from King, Raflo, Fox, Profender etc. If your current shocks do not have a lot of miles on them, I would also just consider keeping them and adding a little lift. (That's what I did).
-Bands for CV boots
-Sliders (Slee, BIOR, WKOR or MetalTech).

Getting to this stage (to me) presents the least amount of smaller issues that can be a pain to address (tire rub, larger decrease im MPG, loss of power due to larger tires, need for bump stops, swaybar bolts breaking, finding other storage options for spare tire, etc.)

- Sent from a very small supercomputer.

See your point, basically that the lift I have my eye on is overkill and will create some other headaches.
-Tires - 285s (stay at or under a 33)- probably
-Diff drop- agree, but...
-Crank up existing OEM torsion bars- ok, but...
-OME rear springs- agree, but...
-OME or 2.0 (no remote res) shocks from King, Raflo, Fox, Profender etc. If your current shocks do not have a lot of miles on them, I would also just consider keeping them and adding a little lift. (That's what I did). - agree also, remote reservoir is more than I need for sure. Shocks need replacing also (been putting this off). But...
-Bands for CV boots- agree
-Sliders (Slee, BIOR, WKOR or MetalTech)- I'm sure I'm pretty alone on this one, but until a family member or the woman requires them for entry I'd rather risk the body damage.

But... If I'm going to get rear springs, shocks, diff drop anyway, why not get the torsion bars too? Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the scenario above most of the slee lift kit anyway?

 

[bkgee]

^ the OME torsion bars are designed for 200-300# of additional gear, so they will ride stiffer without a steel bumper/winch/dual battery setup. the stock torsion bars can be lifted easily and for free, and will give a better ride for an unlaiden truck.

for that matter, it sounds like you could also dispense with the OME rear springs (same reasoning) and just go with adding spacers to the stock rear springs. this route isnt just about being cheap, but also about retaining stock ride quality.

OTOH, OME rear springs probably reduce body roll, so that might be considered an improvement over stock ride quality...

 

[super90]

I just put the OME in our 2003 TLC. No AHC to pull out, but the job wasn't bad at all. I had done an OME on an FZJ80 before doing the 100-series. If you decide to have someone else do it, call Josh at Baertrax. He's done OME on the 100 and is a very competent tech.

PM me with more questions if you want.

 

[jcrandall]

^ the OME torsion bars are designed for 200-300# of additional gear, so they will ride stiffer without a steel bumper/winch/dual battery setup. the stock torsion bars can be lifted easily and for free, and will give a better ride for an unlaiden truck.

for that matter, it sounds like you could also dispense with the OME rear springs (same reasoning) and just go with adding spacers to the stock rear springs. this route isnt just about being cheap, but also about retaining stock ride quality.

OTOH, OME rear springs probably reduce body roll, so that might be considered an improvement over stock ride quality...

Great point at the end - less body roll and load capacity (rear) = better ride for me. Truck is unloaded about 2/3 of the time, but the rest of the time there's a hug variation in weight that's hauled. By huge variation I mean between 200 lbs and about 1,000. Totally willing to have a stiffer ride when unloaded.

 

[GX-R]

that is a nice lexus congrats !

 

[2000UZJ]

You can't keep the AHC torsion bars and crank them. They are not designed to hold the weight of the truck without the assist of the AHC shock. Without that you would be twisting the torsion bars far beyond its capability. That, and the spring rate is not half what it should be.

 

[Mxndrnks]

I would just order the full Slee Medium kit and be done. There are a lot of differing opinions on the Tbars and what not. When I did my first lift 3-4 years ago, I called Slee and talked to them about my needs, wants, and goals. They recommended the Medium kit to me I and went for it. I ran that system up until just recently when I rebuilt everything and upgraded to remote res shocks, TC UCA's, etc. I thought it was great! I also didnt have the front bumper, winch, etc when I first installed it and had zero complaints about the OME tbars being too stiff. In fact I loved the stiffer ride!!!

If you have a driveway and time it is a pretty easy job and you can handle it yourself. Might even be able to convice someone in the Dallas area to give you a hand. Allow yourself two days. After the first time you should be able to do the whole thing in well under a day.

 

[pfran42]

I was just going off what you said you wanted the lift for ("getting to cool places"). If you are not going to add permanent weight and wheel the truck, it will ride much firmer with a full OME lift. Think butt off seat over a speed bump. With money not being a concern, I still think OEM torsion bars, springs (or spacers), and some bigger tires will give you exactly what you said you are looking for. Sure you could throw down for a full lift kit but do you really want to?

Re: skids, I highly highly highly recommend you reconsider purchasing some. Rockers are right at the the top of the list for expensive items to repair. Here is the typical situation. John Doe buys a LC and joins the forum. He loves the truck and wants to make it just a tad more agressive. He has no intention of doing all the crazy rock crawling stuff he sees from all the guys in CO/UT but as soon as he gets the lift he starts noticing places where he could let the LC stretch it's legs. Over the course of a year he pushes the truck more and more and ends up doing things he never imagined were posible in an SUV typically found at a mall.

This truck will do some pretty incredible things in stock form. Adding a little lift and some more aggressive tires definitely ups the temptation factor to try more agressive obstacles. It doesn't take much to be playing around in some dirt and find yourself rubbing the rockers over a crest. Bam!!! Stock running boards ripped from their flimsy mounting locations and shifted rearward/forward (trust me I know), or rockers scratched and dented. The money spent fixing the damage would have paid for sliders AND a front bumper. One more thing, sliders are great parking lot protection from the dude that just pulled up 10 inches from you in his 1988 Ford Tempo.

 

[jcrandall]

Nice, I am now rethinking decisions and choices I thought I made already. Regardless of where I land on these, the input is truly appreciated. I will post any modifications actually done, and thanks for the help.