Temporary heater valve bypass?? (1 Viewer)

[1982FJoe40]

I'm close to running my 2F engine after a top end rebuild and am thinking of bypassing my heater valve, since i seem to have a lot of rust deposits in my heater lines. Basically, I want to deal with it later.
Is bypassing the valve as simple as connecting the two hoses that go into the valve together? or is there more to it? I'm wondering if anyone has tried this.

 

[shawnfj40]

You are absolutely right joe its just that easy. People do it all the time for all kinds of reasons.

 

[1982FJoe40]

Cool. Thanks Shawn.

 

[Curt]

My heater hoses were connected together with a 90* fitting. I rebuilt all the heaters and new hoses and it is connected now.

 

[skidplate]

I carry a piece of hose in my rig just in case the heater core springs a leak. Yes, that easy, X2.

 

[1982FJoe40]

good idea on carrying an extra piece of hose

 

[sggoat]

I'm close to running my 2F engine after a top end rebuild and am thinking of bypassing my heater valve, since i seem to have a lot of rust deposits in my heater lines. Basically, I want to deal with it later.
Is bypassing the valve as simple as connecting the two hoses that go into the valve together? or is there more to it? I'm wondering if anyone has tried this.

Curious as to all the "rust" you say you have in this circuit.--Most all the piping is brass or rubber-(accept for the steel pipe at the head, the head itself, and the block, and the heater valve). You may have some corrosion going on you don't know about yet--How is the quality of the coolant? Do you see milky water in the rad? Is the color consistent with the type of coolant you have?
It is an easy task to drain the system, add some Cascade dishwasher detergent run the engine, drain, flush then refill--it'll clean a ton of junk out of the cooling system--easier and way more beneficial to the engine cooling system.--it's telling you there is something wrong inside--don't ignore it

For Shawn40--I'm 35 miles NE of you, and I WILL be using my heater tomorrow-32 deg F--man that's cold for SW Florida!- I hope I don't lose all my tomatoes--

 

[Howard705]

Usually you don't need extra hose-just loop one from the core back around to the engine.

 

[bikersmurf]

I've installed pex ball shut offs in both lines so that the heat is 100% off in the summer... Both off, and the heater can be removed.

 

[1982FJoe40]

Hi sggoat
My car had been sitting in someone's barn for years for years before I bought it. That's why I'm going through every inch. To answer your question, when I got it the radiator had water.

 

[sggoat]

I'm close to running my 2F engine after a top end rebuild and am thinking of bypassing my heater valve, since i seem to have a lot of rust deposits in my heater lines. Basically, I want to deal with it later.
Is bypassing the valve as simple as connecting the two hoses that go into the valve together? or is there more to it? I'm wondering if anyone has tried this.

Curious as to all the "rust" you say you have in this circuit.--Most all the piping is brass or rubber-(accept for the steel pipe at the head, and the heater valve). You may have some corrosion going on you don't know about yet--
For Shawn40--I'm 35 miles NE of you, and I WILL be using my heater tomorrow-32 deg F--man that's cold for SW Florida!- I hope I don't lose all my tomatos--

I've installed pex ball shut offs in both lines so that the heat is 100% off in the summer... Both off, and the heater can be removed.

bikersmurf--could you tell me where you got the pex valves and how you installed them?

 

[bikersmurf]

Plumbing shops all have them, about $6 each, and a couple hose clamps to install them mid rubber line.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Gary ( @sggoat ) - I don't know if THIS is exactly the valve that @bikersmurf used, but this is what I will use - two of these with 4 clamps.

 

[bikersmurf]

Functionally, that's the same. Mine used a shorter stamped steel handle which is centered on the mounting bolt. I installed them because the stock shutoff wouldn't close 100%

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I'm another 40 owner who bypasses the heaters during the summer months.

Before I yanked out the v8 the heat from the motor alone put out enough heat to bake a ham in the passenger floor board.

 

[sggoat]

Hi sggoat
My car had been sitting in someone's barn for years for years before I bought it. That's why I'm going through every inch. To answer your question, when I got it the radiator had water.

What color was it? Was it clear(green/orange?) Were there any rust particles visible?

Gary ( @sggoat ) - I don't know if THIS is exactly the valve that @bikersmurf used, but this is what I will use - two of these with 4 clamps.

That is cheap for a brass-bodied valve--there has to be a way to hook these things up so you could operate the heat control from inside the cab.
The OEM valve leaves a lot to be desired-difficult - if not impossible to refurb.--I've dismantled mine twice now, trying to get it to seal off when closed. Don't think the little metal tabs will stand a third try.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

@sggoat I haven't (intentionally) used my heater - I know it works, I noticed it was on once, back in June.

I'm not sure what you want to achieve... you could use a pair of electric valves on the hose and a switch of some sort in the cab.

Or, replace the OEM valve entirely, with an electric valve and a switch in the cab.

Is that what you meant?

 

[sggoat]

Something like that. I haven't researched the elec valves you speak of yet--I was thinking more on the line of a brass ball valve that could be controlled in the cab with a cable--but the elec ones sound more appealing-much fewer mechanical connections than what you propose--any links to something that would work?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Something like that. I haven't researched the elec valves you speak of yet--I was thinking more on the line of a brass ball valve that could be controlled in the cab with a cable--but the elec ones sound more appealing-much fewer mechanical connections than what you propose--any links to something that would work?

I haven't actually done this mod, Gary. But, IIRC, the heater hose is 3/4" - you would need a 12vdc 2way 'normally closed' 3/4" water valve that will fully open, with the pressure maintained in the heater hose.

I don't know how much pressure is present in the heater hose...

THIS would probably work (as would a number of others) and it has 30-day refund (buyer pays return shipping) - you could try it and make sure it works.

"Return policy details
If you are not happy with our products for any reason, you may return them for full refund (excluding shipping charges) within 30 days of purchase. No questions asked."

HTH

 

[Weber Sarge]

You would need a high temperature valve if you want to go with an electric solenoid type - rated to 225*+ . The above valve is only rated at 175* and normal running engine temperature would probably degrade the seals quickly . Summer use would probably finish it off .
Sarge