Tech Questions

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OK, I actually got some time in the garage so the fun has began. The cruiser is sitting in the air with everything stripped from the back. Springs were only on the truck for a year so everthing came apart real easy. Only problem I have is getting the third member out of thr old housing, there has to be some trick to this but I haven't found it yet, I'm open for ideas. I have hit on it some from the back but don't want to hit it too hard, I know how my luck goes. I hope to have it back on the ground by next weekend, then start finalizing plans for the front.

Anybody interested in some slightly used 4" lift springs? Two are out two coming out soon I hope.

Assuming you have the shafts out....as you pull the 3rd out rotate the pinion flange, should walk right out.
 
OK, I actually got some time in the garage so the fun has began. The cruiser is sitting in the air with everything stripped from the back. Springs were only on the truck for a year so everthing came apart real easy. Only problem I have is getting the third member out of thr old housing, there has to be some trick to this but I haven't found it yet, I'm open for ideas. I have hit on it some from the back but don't want to hit it too hard, I know how my luck goes. I hope to have it back on the ground by next weekend, then start finalizing plans for the front.

Anybody interested in some slightly used 4" lift springs? Two are out two coming out soon I hope.

I've had the best luck removing thirds by driving a chisel between the third member casting and the axle housing. Usually 3-4 places around the diff; hammer in one place some then move to another. Once the paper gasket starts to split it gets easier. Once it's loose it should lift/slide out/off the studs and onto your toes/fingers. Use a file to smooth out any chisel/hammer damage to the sealing face and edge of the diff casting.

What brand lift springs?

Good luck!
Nick
 
Oh, you havent broke the seal yet.....?

Well in that case I revise my advice to: grow some nuts.
 
After removing all the bolts & axles. Put a jack under the drive flange & raise it up
Breaks the seal every time




Oh.....you need to do this BEFORE you take it out of the truck
 
Thanks Tony a little late but sounds like it would work great. I'll see if the wife will let me borrow the jewels out of the drawer she keeps them in and try again tomarrow.

Rough Country 4" lift springs, been on the truck for right at year. Used off road 2 or 3 times at the badlands and the whole week of PYS. They are a lot softer then they were when first put on.
 
OK next question. Got the old stock springs down out of the garage, and one of the spring pins is broken on a front spring. So where can I get another one and what size are these? I'am talking about the pin that goes through the spring pack and sets into the hole in the perch. I'm guessing clamp the springs back together with C-clamps and install new pin?

Also considering flipping the springs to gain wheel base. Is this worth it? Do I need to switch the military wrap when I do this? Some write ups say its a must, others say they didn't bother with this and have had no issues.

Just shooting ideas out there for commits, ball practice on Mon, Tues, and Wed. nites so my mind seems to wonder and come up with more of the "while I have that all torn apart why don't I do this..."
 
OK next question. Got the old stock springs down out of the garage, and one of the spring pins is broken on a front spring. So where can I get another one and what size are these? I'am talking about the pin that goes through the spring pack and sets into the hole in the perch. I'm guessing clamp the springs back together with C-clamps and install new pin?

I used to buy them from any spring manufacturer (I forget the size) but since Ive blown prolly a dozen, I now use grade 8 bolts and round the bolt head off a tad so it fits in the perch. Yes, c-clamps work great

Also considering flipping the springs to gain wheel base. Is this worth it? Do I need to switch the military wrap when I do this? Some write ups say its a must, others say they didn't bother with this and have had no issues.

Wheel base is good, I would aim for as much as you can in a 40. You 40 clowns flip only the rears right? The reason I ask is the rear is strait forward, but the front has other variables, mainly steering related. The military rap is designed to not drop the front of the spring if the main leaf breaks. Having said that I wouldnt care too much. If you do switch them all you have to do drill some new holes in the springs.

Just shooting ideas out there for commits, ball practice on Mon, Tues, and Wed. nites so my mind seems to wonder and come up with more of the "while I have that all torn apart why don't I do this..."

:meh:
 
All you have to do is drill holes in the second spring, the one with the wrap.

Drilling holes in spring steel is not easy even a little bit.

If it breaks at speed it'll be an issue, but then if it breaks at the rear at speed it'll be an issue too, just a bit less drama before you go in the ditch, flip on your head and die.
 
I've used socket head cap screws for spring pins (SHCS are available at Lowes, HD, Fastenal, machines where you work, etc.). To make the hole in the axle smaller to match the head of the fastener I've used short pieces of tube or drilled a hole in a piece of round bar and welded it into the spring perch. SHCS are easier to get than the "right" spring pin and seem to break less too.

Drilling spring steel requires a good quality drill bit and slow speeds. Last time I redrilled springs I think I started with around an 1/8" for a pilot hole then drilled to size. If you have a drill press it helps but I used a 1/2" Milwaukee holeshooter for the last set I had to drill.

Nick
 
x2 on the cap head screw.

I say f' the drill press. Pick up that clutchless 1/2 horse 1978 Black and Decker drill and give'er a go. Don't forget the Harbor Freight drill bits! :hillbilly:

No really, I've got a box full of really good bits if you need one, just let me know what size and I'll mail it down to you. Gottem at an airport auction on the cheap.
 
I have a bag of spring pins (3/8" rings a bell...not sure why). I dont anticipate using them, but they are for Bett's (Marlin) springs and are quite long.

I was braking so many pins at one point that I rigged it so the gr 8 bolts I use now go in from the top. So all I have to do is drop the ubolts and drop the axle enough to get to the nut from the bottom side, rather than lifting it 8" to get the whole pin out, then having to ratchet strap my axle back into place.

But I havent broke a pin in a couple years.
 
I agree whole heartedly with what he said in the earlier post
I would definitely do it the one way, over doing it the other way
I like using the one guys method over the other guys method
And I always use the same part that one guy said, rather than the part the other guy uses
Oh, and I have done this before & it is very important that you don't forget to do that one thing
that could cause you bbig problems & severe injuries
 
Damn Tony! Right on track with this! Didn't realize you knew this stuff that good?
 
Update time. Things moving slowly as usual, was planning to make the May run with soa in the back and 4" su in the front. Down to just needing to run hard brake lines, rework track bar mount on crossmember, and lengthen drive shaft.

As of tonight I can't get ahold of the driveshaft guy, I'll try Mon. I did go ahead and flip the springs while I had it all apart, so the drive shaft has to be longer. This may be what keeps the truck home for the shakedown run.

The trac bar is 2" past the frame mount for my old bar. I'm thinking this would not work very well, I can bolt it up but the shackel sits at about a 45* angle, so I need to change this.

On top of all that is, today the grandsons finally started the baseball season so we have games Tues,Wed,Thurs, and Friday. Got to make up the rained out games. So there goes a lot of the time in the garage. Fun, fun, fun.
 
I can bolt it up but the shackel sits at about a 45* angle, so I need to change this.

And why exactly is this a problem? :confused:


im drunk.
 
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