Tech Questions

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Gumby said:
I think that shackle would be a problem if it goes horizontal before the suspension is at full stuff. Otherwise it's good.

I'm not drunk.
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He is just as likely (if not more) to reach the end of the shackle on droop, if he is closer to 90*

But if he is in danger of hitting frame a longer shackle will solve that by increasing the swing distance. (that will actually help both problems on droop and bump)

Im not drunk anymore.
 
Why do you need the driveshaft guy to make you a driveshaft for a trail truck?! Buy a length of sch 80 pipe, cut to length and weld the ends of your existing driveshaft to that. If you're careful it will be straight enough to ride your trailer to the trailride, ride for the weekend and ride the trailer home. :hillbilly:

Nick
 
I have to say my bent driveshaft causes problems when I need to run up to the gas station in Attica or drive from sommers to the Badlands or even running down some access roads.

However, a bent one is better than none at all.




which does make you think about the phrase "as useless as a bent dick"
4x4labs.webp
 
I make my own driveshafts in my garage

I even drive them on the road with much success

If I can do it.....you can Booty
 
The shackel problem is on the end of the trac bar not the springs. You guys have seen my welding skills so the driveshaft may be best done elsewhere.
 
booty said:
The trac bar is 2" past the frame mount for my old bar. I'm thinking this would not work very well, I can bolt it up but the shackel sits at about a 45* angle, so I need to change this.
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booty said:
The shackel problem is on the end of the trac bar not the springs.
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I assumed you had a shackle on the end of the trac bar....Im not refering to springs.
 
OK after a reread I understand what you are saying. So I may just leave it and do some testing when back on the ground.
 
Its been very quiet on here so I thought I'd bring this back to life. I wonder what is the longest springover in history? After running this year with SO in the rear and 4" SU in the front its time to finish this.

Parts are ordered so I hope to restart this in the next few weeks.

So a few questions

when putting my knuckels on the new (to me) axle housing do I just put the same amount of shims on the top and bottom and adjust from there or is this centering tool needed to make it all line up correctly? When I first put the mini knuckels on I think I just matched the shimms and all has worked fine for years.

Also what is a quick way to tell if a set of stock springs is a front set or rear. John has some old springs I may use because they dont have the years of abuse on them like my old stock springs.

Also is there really any difference in the strengh in my old 74 coarse spline 3rd and a newer fine spline 3rd ?
 
On the shims.....just put it together the way you take it off your old one

I have never used the centering tool & always just use the shim set up from what ever I have that is existing & works

May not be the technically correct way but it always works



On the springs.....I don't know


On the 3rd....the more splines the better is always the rule
More splines = more strength
 
booty said:
Its been very quiet on here so I thought I'd bring this back to life. I wonder what is the longest springover in history? After running this year with SO in the rear and 4" SU in the front its time to finish this.

Parts are ordered so I hope to restart this in the next few weeks.

So a few questions

when putting my knuckels on the new (to me) axle housing do I just put the same amount of shims on the top and bottom and adjust from there or is this centering tool needed to make it all line up correctly? When I first put the mini knuckels on I think I just matched the shimms and all has worked fine for years.

Ive never used that tool. I use the shims that came on the knuckles. If thats not an option I set up some shims, torque it all down and put a pull scale on the steering arm. I want to say 12-16 lbs is what I aimed for....that may take care of the pre load, but it wont help on alignment. I vote use the old shim set up.

Also what is a quick way to tell if a set of stock springs is a front set or rear. John has some old springs I may use because they dont have the years of abuse on them like my old stock springs.

I dunno, but is the spring eye wrap the same on the front and back of the springs? If they are different and the distance between the centering pin and front and rear eyes are different, you may be able to figure it out.....got that?

Also is there really any difference in the strengh in my old 74 coarse spline 3rd and a newer fine spline 3rd ?

Yes!
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:cheers:
 
So basically, John & I concur, one with the other

I forgot about the spring wrap thing to tell which way is which
My 60 springs were like that..alignment pin was centered in the spring & I put the wrap at the front of the vehicle
 
Thanks. On the springs I'm needing to know how to tell a front spring from a rear spring. I have my original fronts but they have some rough years of wheeling on them, I broke both original rears, so if these springs that a friend down here has is a front set I'll probably use them.
 
booty said:
Thanks. On the springs I'm needing to know how to tell a front spring from a rear spring. I have my original fronts but they have some rough years of wheeling on them, I broke both original rears, so if these springs that a friend down here has is a front set I'll probably use them.
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I know...I was saying, If you can tell front from back on the spring itself, you may be able to use the placement of the centering pin to tell the difference between the front and rear springs....Thats assuming, and I have no idea, that that would be different from front springs to rear springs. I'm just thinking out loud....:meh:
 
The pin on the rear spring is not centered from end to end...I know that

But not sure on a forty how to tell other than that

Axe Clint or Carl.......Richard might know
 
We obviously solved all the problems you're currently having, Mark. Is the project complete yet?
How well does it work?
 
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