prob not.
yup use da green
yup use da green
Tech Questions Here (8 Viewers)
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Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Am I ever going to live that down ?
I doubt it seriously.....just like Lance will forever be known as the "Moonshine Night Mud Dogger".
Tried to start my 100 this morning to go to a doctor's appointment and the key just turned loosely in the ignition cylinder. I made sure it was in park all the way and jimmied with the steering wheel, but no change. After a search in the 100 tech section, sounds like a broken ignition cylinder. Anyone else ever have this problem?
Luckily, I just drove it back from Toledo Bend yesterday. Thank God it didn't go out over there.
Luckily, I just drove it back from Toledo Bend yesterday. Thank God it didn't go out over there.
Hey guys,
It's time to change the rear brake pads and get the drums turned.
I'm going to get them turned at O'reiley's in Abbeville, But for the brake pads, I was wondering if yall recommend anybody particular. Is that something that being an older Toyota, that I may not find the correct one's at O'reiley's, and will need to go to Lafeyette, If so, Where.
Thanks
Cody
It's time to change the rear brake pads and get the drums turned.
I'm going to get them turned at O'reiley's in Abbeville, But for the brake pads, I was wondering if yall recommend anybody particular. Is that something that being an older Toyota, that I may not find the correct one's at O'reiley's, and will need to go to Lafeyette, If so, Where.
Thanks
Cody
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
You should be able to get those at most parts stores. I prefer Napa but that's because of the 6 (yes, 6) parts stores within 2 blocks of each other, Napa is the only one I trust. The others seem to employ minimum wage kids that don't know squat about autos. I know I don't know anything about what I'm doing so I like the fact that the guys at Napa are VERY knowledgeable and help me with everything I need.
Just my .02 and no offense meant to minimum wage kids who don't know squat.
Just my .02 and no offense meant to minimum wage kids who don't know squat.
Looking at orillies website they are saying it is an order part, if you call them in the morning there is a delivery truck that makes atleast one round a day delivering parts from the hub store in lafayette. Not sure if the hub store has it but I would suspect they do.\
Just checked, the hub store in lafayette says they have a set of shoes for the rear instock.
Just checked, the hub store in lafayette says they have a set of shoes for the rear instock.
You should be able to get those at most parts stores. I prefer Napa but that's because of the 6 (yes, 6) parts stores within 2 blocks of each other, Napa is the only one I trust. The others seem to employ minimum wage kids that don't know squat about autos. I know I don't know anything about what I'm doing so I like the fact that the guys at Napa are VERY knowledgeable and help me with everything I need.
Just my .02 and no offense meant to minimum wage kids who don't know squat.
just a heads up, this post is definately not tech related, just NAPA related.
I have worked at Autozone, Orillies, and napa before coming offshore. A Corprate napa store not a mom and pop and trust me, the caliber of people I worked with at the napa were probably 2 steps below all but the most worthless @ the other two... well I take that back, Unless I am buying oil or paint I will push my truck past an autozone to get to an orillies. Took more defective returns in a week at autozone than I did in a month at orillies.
As far as minium wage goes, I was making 7.39 @ Autozone in 2000 and told them I would not take a pay cut to go to work for them, they agreed to pick me up at that rate and when I got my first check it was for only 6 dollars a hour. Raised hell with them and eventually got my money/hour.
plus the bastards at Napa killed all their buisness with the people they had working the counter. I remember delivering things to customers in rayne, and 4 times in a row brinign them the wrong brake drums, recieving them from the assistany manager Dee, and telling her "these are the same part numbers, this is not what they need" Sending me anyway, getting to the place, showing them and driving back, got the measurements off the stock drums, looked the partnumber up in the book, showed the manager the partnumber we had, the measurements for the corect one, and the part number for the correct one, and she would still order anotherr set of the wrong drums, again. Go to deliver a set of hydraulic jacks to I think it was the chemical place out by interstate... FDF and when i got there they were wrong, they had ordered low profile jacks and Dee had ordered standard jacks that they could not use. Twice they ran me out there before the customer said forget it they would just get them from carquest. Everyday they sent me out to deliver stuff they new was wrong, but they didnt want to tell the people they did not have a part, so they sent the wrong part, and ordered the right one so the next day when the customer called and said the part was wrong, they would say it was just a different aplication for the same car and they would say they were sending the alternate part.
After three months and being in capable of building any buisness (this was right after the guy that owned all the napas around crowley and kaplan and all that sold out to carquest) rather than having the guts to fire me, or lay me off, they told me I could quit or they would file sexual harassment charges against me. I was the only guy working there and the other 4 people were women who said they felt threatened by me and thay I had made "dispariging remarks about them" to the customers when I delivered parts.
So in short Screw NAPA with an AIDS infected dick.
just my .02
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Wow Josh.....why don't you tell us what you really think?
I guess it depends on where you are like with everything else. They do have SOME knowledgeable people at the other stores around here but if they are not working that day, there is no telling what you will find. At the Napa here, there are 4 guys who know their $hit and at least two of them are there every time I go in. So, I hope they don't get screwed with an AIDS infected di(k but I will be sure to watch myself the next time I walk in the door.
I guess it depends on where you are like with everything else. They do have SOME knowledgeable people at the other stores around here but if they are not working that day, there is no telling what you will find. At the Napa here, there are 4 guys who know their $hit and at least two of them are there every time I go in. So, I hope they don't get screwed with an AIDS infected di(k but I will be sure to watch myself the next time I walk in the door.
It really is crazy that they have 6 of them so close together. They take up like 1/2 of our town.
O`Reilly
shoes Wagner bonded BB549
wheel cyl WC 37690 need 2
hardware kit BHH 17253
do one side at a time so ya have a pattern to go by & remember long shoe in da rear
they are a doppelganger
Mr. Paul.
Would you recommend changing all those extra things, Wheel Cylender, and Hardware kit, Or shouldn't mine be fine.
I'm thinking that I can resure mine, but assuming you just put that upthere to say there are the parts. I shouldn't need them.
But if you recomend me changing them I will. Mine looked fine, but what do I know..
Thanks
Cody
Would you recommend changing all those extra things, Wheel Cylender, and Hardware kit, Or shouldn't mine be fine.
I'm thinking that I can resure mine, but assuming you just put that upthere to say there are the parts. I shouldn't need them.
But if you recomend me changing them I will. Mine looked fine, but what do I know..
Thanks
Cody
Mr. Paul.
Would you recommend changing all those extra things, Wheel Cylender, and Hardware kit, Or shouldn't mine be fine.
I'm thinking that I can resure mine, but assuming you just put that upthere to say there are the parts. I shouldn't need them.
But if you recomend me changing them I will. Mine looked fine, but what do I know..
Thanks
Cody
Cody, if Paul recommends it then do it. Don't think he would say that if it wasn't necessary
Mr. Paul.
Would you recommend changing all those extra things, Wheel Cylender, and Hardware kit, Or shouldn't mine be fine.
I'm thinking that I can resure mine, but assuming you just put that upthere to say there are the parts. I shouldn't need them.
But if you recomend me changing them I will. Mine looked fine, but what do I know..
Thanks
Cody
Cody, if Paul recommends it then do it. Don't think he would say that if it wasn't necessary
cheep insurance how old are the cylinders and the sprngs?
but it is your $$
Urgent in a hurry help needed:
Suposed to be picking up a truck camper tomorrow, cant get the gooseneck ball out of the dually. Broke a 24" pipe wrench pushing with both legs trying to get it to break and it never budged.
I can cut it out but then I have ruind threads in my plate.
EDIT just thinking, I might go try to find another pipewrench, go to my shop and heat the backside of the plate cherry red, and try to break it again. any better ideas let them fly and I will hopefully get it on my iphone.
Suposed to be picking up a truck camper tomorrow, cant get the gooseneck ball out of the dually. Broke a 24" pipe wrench pushing with both legs trying to get it to break and it never budged.
I can cut it out but then I have ruind threads in my plate.
EDIT just thinking, I might go try to find another pipewrench, go to my shop and heat the backside of the plate cherry red, and try to break it again. any better ideas let them fly and I will hopefully get it on my iphone.
pmd ipone
It is off. The hot wrench wins another battle.
nO VERY HOT ACTUALLY. damn caplock... anyway. That was the thickest solid thing I have cut yet, took quite a bit of heat to get it off. MIght need to invest in a larger tip for my torch but it is not like I am going to have to cut 2 5/16s solid bar very often.
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
This is not a tech question but for everyone running Warn winches, I thought you might find this upgrade to the solenoid pack interesting. I know Justin was working on a fix using some other kind of solenoid and kuddos to him for all the leg work he has done on that. It just so happens that yesterday a guy on fjcruiserforums.com, 1911 (Lee), posted this upgrade and I thought this was a great alternative. Lee's write-ups are VERY thorough and accurate. He has been around our FJC forum for a long time and knows his $hit. Anyway, here is what Lee said:
Here is something I recently did to my other FJ, but could be applicable to most any Warn winch on an FJC or any other truck. For that matter, it could be done to almost any brand of winch, but I only have experience doing this on Warn winches so that is the focus of this post.
Warn makes some solid equipment, but some of their designs and specs are still using 1940's technology. Specifically, the electro-mechanical solenoids used to control the high-amperage power to the winch motor. There are usually four, two for powering the winch motor and drum "in" and two for "out". As an example, here are the solenoids from the Warn 8274 winch that I recently converted. The solenoids on a modern Warn planetary winch are either under a black plastic cover or integrated in the winch body/cover.
These solenoids are just old Ford tractor starter solenoids. They are prone to corrosion and failure, and can in fact fail in the closed position, which means your winch runs-on and can't be stopped without disconnecting the battery - not fun if you are winching "in"! Mostly though, they just quit working at the most inopportune time, right when you really need your winch.
A much better device for controlling winch motor power is the DC contactor. Contactors are much better sealed to corrosion, take up less space, and most importantly are designed to fail in the open position so your winch can't run-on. Some winch manufacturers (notably Superwinch) are making winches with contactors installed instead of solenoids from the factory. Even Warn is beginning to see the light; they now provide a contactor in their high-end Endurance 12.0 winch. Doubtless in the future they will move their other winches to contactor operation, but in the mean time, it's possible to upgrade your existing Warn winch in many cases.
There are a lot of different contactors out there for various applications; you need to choose one with an amperage rating and duty cycle suitable for your winch. The easiest way is just to use one that is made for a big truck winch (do not use one made for smaller ATV winches). Fortunately, Superwinch has made this easy for us - the Superwinch 90-14452 is suitable for most any winch likely to be used on an FJC or similar-weight truck. The cheapest place I have found to buy them is on-line from Summit Racing:
Superwinch 90-14452 - Superwinch Replacement Solenoids - Overview - SummitRacing.com
This single contactor will replace all four solenoids. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and remove all the solenoids and associated wiring. You will need to find a place to mount the contactor. With a little trial-and-error, I was able to fit mine inside the stock controller (solenoid) box on my Warn 8274 winch:
If it won't fit in your winch control box, you can mount it outside of the box or even inside the engine bay. I have seen them just bolted on to the end of the winch motor. One big advantage of mounting it inside the controller/solenoid space is that you will probably be able to re-use some or all of the stock power cables.
Wiring in the new contactor is actually much more simple than the rats nest of wires required for the four stock solenoids, and the Warn six-pin / five-wire controller used on almost all of their modern winches works perfectly. Use the attached PDF generic diagram to attach the power cables from the contactor to the winch motor and battery. If you can't re-use the short cables from the old solenoids to the winch motor, then go to a NAPA auto parts or similar store where they can make battery cables to any specified length. Have them made with 2-gauge AWG battery cable. Some Warn winches only use 4-gauge cables, but 2-gauge handles more amperage and provides a margin of safety. If you mount the contactor away from the winch, use plastic conduit to protect the cables from chafing and wearing through the insulation. These cables carry large current straight from the battery; you do not want them to short out!
Wiring in the stock Warn winch controller is simple. There are five wires coming out of the standard modern Warn controller. Connect the red wire to 12V+, it probably already has a 5/16" lug on it from being originally connected to a stud on one of the solenoids. Connect it to the same lug on the Superwinch contactor as the positive battery cable is connected to. Connect the black controller wire to a good ground. Again, it should already have a lug on it and be long enough to connect to the winch motor ground cable that goes straight to the battery negative terminal. The brown controller wire is a switched ground, and goes to the center spade terminal (marked black) on the Superwinch contactor. On my winch, the green controller wire is the "in" wire and gets connected to the right (marked blue) spade terminal, and the remaining white controller wire is "out" and goes the remaining left spade terminal (marked yellow) on the contactor. In my experience, some Warn winches have opposite "in" and "out" wiring, so check the operation with your controller and if "in" and "out" are reversed, just switch the green and white controller wires on the left and right (yellow and blue marked) spade terminals on the Superwinch contactor. Here is a photo of the completely-wired contactor and controller on my winch:
If you want to add an in-cabin winch control switch, just make double connections on the red, green, and white controller wires and run the extra wires into the engine bay and through the firewall into the cab.
My finished project is visually indistinguishable from stock, but is much more reliable and weather/waterproof:
The next time I have the Demello front bumper off of my FJC for any reason, I'm going to convert the Warn M8000 in it also.
Here is something I recently did to my other FJ, but could be applicable to most any Warn winch on an FJC or any other truck. For that matter, it could be done to almost any brand of winch, but I only have experience doing this on Warn winches so that is the focus of this post.
Warn makes some solid equipment, but some of their designs and specs are still using 1940's technology. Specifically, the electro-mechanical solenoids used to control the high-amperage power to the winch motor. There are usually four, two for powering the winch motor and drum "in" and two for "out". As an example, here are the solenoids from the Warn 8274 winch that I recently converted. The solenoids on a modern Warn planetary winch are either under a black plastic cover or integrated in the winch body/cover.
These solenoids are just old Ford tractor starter solenoids. They are prone to corrosion and failure, and can in fact fail in the closed position, which means your winch runs-on and can't be stopped without disconnecting the battery - not fun if you are winching "in"! Mostly though, they just quit working at the most inopportune time, right when you really need your winch.
A much better device for controlling winch motor power is the DC contactor. Contactors are much better sealed to corrosion, take up less space, and most importantly are designed to fail in the open position so your winch can't run-on. Some winch manufacturers (notably Superwinch) are making winches with contactors installed instead of solenoids from the factory. Even Warn is beginning to see the light; they now provide a contactor in their high-end Endurance 12.0 winch. Doubtless in the future they will move their other winches to contactor operation, but in the mean time, it's possible to upgrade your existing Warn winch in many cases.
There are a lot of different contactors out there for various applications; you need to choose one with an amperage rating and duty cycle suitable for your winch. The easiest way is just to use one that is made for a big truck winch (do not use one made for smaller ATV winches). Fortunately, Superwinch has made this easy for us - the Superwinch 90-14452 is suitable for most any winch likely to be used on an FJC or similar-weight truck. The cheapest place I have found to buy them is on-line from Summit Racing:
Superwinch 90-14452 - Superwinch Replacement Solenoids - Overview - SummitRacing.com
This single contactor will replace all four solenoids. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and remove all the solenoids and associated wiring. You will need to find a place to mount the contactor. With a little trial-and-error, I was able to fit mine inside the stock controller (solenoid) box on my Warn 8274 winch:
If it won't fit in your winch control box, you can mount it outside of the box or even inside the engine bay. I have seen them just bolted on to the end of the winch motor. One big advantage of mounting it inside the controller/solenoid space is that you will probably be able to re-use some or all of the stock power cables.
Wiring in the new contactor is actually much more simple than the rats nest of wires required for the four stock solenoids, and the Warn six-pin / five-wire controller used on almost all of their modern winches works perfectly. Use the attached PDF generic diagram to attach the power cables from the contactor to the winch motor and battery. If you can't re-use the short cables from the old solenoids to the winch motor, then go to a NAPA auto parts or similar store where they can make battery cables to any specified length. Have them made with 2-gauge AWG battery cable. Some Warn winches only use 4-gauge cables, but 2-gauge handles more amperage and provides a margin of safety. If you mount the contactor away from the winch, use plastic conduit to protect the cables from chafing and wearing through the insulation. These cables carry large current straight from the battery; you do not want them to short out!
Wiring in the stock Warn winch controller is simple. There are five wires coming out of the standard modern Warn controller. Connect the red wire to 12V+, it probably already has a 5/16" lug on it from being originally connected to a stud on one of the solenoids. Connect it to the same lug on the Superwinch contactor as the positive battery cable is connected to. Connect the black controller wire to a good ground. Again, it should already have a lug on it and be long enough to connect to the winch motor ground cable that goes straight to the battery negative terminal. The brown controller wire is a switched ground, and goes to the center spade terminal (marked black) on the Superwinch contactor. On my winch, the green controller wire is the "in" wire and gets connected to the right (marked blue) spade terminal, and the remaining white controller wire is "out" and goes the remaining left spade terminal (marked yellow) on the contactor. In my experience, some Warn winches have opposite "in" and "out" wiring, so check the operation with your controller and if "in" and "out" are reversed, just switch the green and white controller wires on the left and right (yellow and blue marked) spade terminals on the Superwinch contactor. Here is a photo of the completely-wired contactor and controller on my winch:
If you want to add an in-cabin winch control switch, just make double connections on the red, green, and white controller wires and run the extra wires into the engine bay and through the firewall into the cab.
My finished project is visually indistinguishable from stock, but is much more reliable and weather/waterproof:
The next time I have the Demello front bumper off of my FJC for any reason, I'm going to convert the Warn M8000 in it also.
yup same basic idea that Justin posted his relays are $80 with a 2 minute full load cap
can ya get specs on these units ?
can ya get specs on these units ?