Tech Questions Here (4 Viewers)

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Reg fed or caf refers to emissions standards. Federal has "x" standards, Cali has "x"+bs standards. Emissions are built differently depending on where the vehicle was sold.

I had to remove tint on my runner when I go it. It was pretty much falling off by itself, but I think a heat gun, mean green, and ronsonol got most of what was left.
 
jUST HAD A THOUGHT: damn caplock...

Anyway the thought! Was thinking about new rims due to the fact the rocks are eating my aluminum rims. What about a rock ring like on beadlocks, but screwed into holes tapped in the aluminum rim? any reason it wouldnt work?
 
Might weaken the lip enough to chip off around the holes. I got rid of my aluminums because of chipping.
 
Ok going back to my post (#1814) about winch solenoids. I finally heard back from Pierce Arrow about their solenoid.
Pierce Arrow Single Solenoid

This is what they received from the manufacturer about the duty cycle...

5.3.1 Under working condition within electric current 450A, switch on one pole pass through for 5 seconds, then switch to the opposite pole pass 5 seconds, that being considered as one test circle, proceed the test except paused when temperature reach to 150℃. The test could be passed if test circles were more than 1000 times without failure.
5.3.2 Under working condition within electric current 450A, switch on one pole pass through for one minute, then switch to the opposite pole pass through one minute, that being considered as one test circle, proceed the test 10 circles. The test could be passed if tested relay was no failure.
5.3.3 Under working condition condition within electric current 450A, switch on one pole pass though for 2 minutes then paused 4 minutes, then switch to the opposite pole pass though 2 minutes. The test could be passed if tested relay was no failure.

It looks like it can take 2 minute pulls at 450 amps. That's a long time to be pulling with a M12000 at full capacity. Anyway I'm ordering a couple today.

Larry you can have my entire Warn solenoid pack from my big winch, if you want it. I know you have at least one solenoid that needs changing:D
 
darasick said:
Ok going back to my post (#1814) about winch solenoids. I finally heard back from Pierce Arrow about their solenoid.
Pierce Arrow Single Solenoid

This is what they received from the manufacturer about the duty cycle...

5.3.1 Under working condition within electric current 450A, switch on one pole pass through for 5 seconds, then switch to the opposite pole pass 5 seconds, that being considered as one test circle, proceed the test except paused when temperature reach to 150℃. The test could be passed if test circles were more than 1000 times without failure.
5.3.2 Under working condition within electric current 450A, switch on one pole pass through for one minute, then switch to the opposite pole pass through one minute, that being considered as one test circle, proceed the test 10 circles. The test could be passed if tested relay was no failure.
5.3.3 Under working condition condition within electric current 450A, switch on one pole pass though for 2 minutes then paused 4 minutes, then switch to the opposite pole pass though 2 minutes. The test could be passed if tested relay was no failure.

It looks like it can take 2 minute pulls at 450 amps. That's a long time to be pulling with a M12000 at full capacity. Anyway I'm ordering a couple today.

Larry you can have my entire Warn solenoid pack from my big winch, if you want it. I know you have at least one solenoid that needs changing:D
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Sounds good to me curious to see how they work out, are you going to mount them under the hood?

Thanks bud I'll certainly take the old pack ;) let me know what I owe you for it. Once you get these tested I may swap them out
 
For you sir... The pack will be free!
 
darasick said:
For you sir... The pack will be free!
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Thank you much bud but you don't have to do that, let me put something towards your new ones. You'll save me from having to order any. I will however put them to good use :D
 
Hey all,

I got home yesterday after driving to Orange, TX and back...top tank on the radiator is leaking where it meets the metal radiator. I can see the bubbles coming out as the tank contracts and expands. I thought I could wait til the weekend to fix it but it's already steaming after taking Blake to school this morning. I'm trying to get a crash course by reading the forums now, but I was looking for any input.

I guess I will call Musson soon to get some prices, thinking of doing water pump and fan clutch also if I have time.
 
moomtazz said:
Hey all,

I got home yesterday after driving to Orange, TX and back...top tank on the radiator is leaking where it meets the metal radiator. I can see the bubbles coming out as the tank contracts and expands. I thought I could wait til the weekend to fix it but it's already steaming after taking Blake to school this morning. I'm trying to get a crash course by reading the forums now, but I was looking for any input.

I guess I will call Musson soon to get some prices, thinking of doing water pump and fan clutch also if I have time.
Click to expand...

Buy a Koyo. They are cheaper than OEM and pretty much the same thing. I wish I would have known about them when I replaced mine.

Changing the radiator on an 80 is a bitch, well at least for me.
 
sparkplug said:
Buy a Koyo. They are cheaper than OEM and pretty much the same thing. I wish I would have known about them when I replaced mine.

Changing the radiator on an 80 is a bitch, well at least for me.
Click to expand...

X2... According to the forums, Koyo manufactures the Toyota rads. Mine did the same thing and I just replaced it, for the peace of mind. I didn't find that the radiator was that hard to replace, but I had a beer drinking buddy to give me a hand. This is the easiest time to change the fan clutch and water pump, but they aren't that hard if the rad is already installed.:cheers:
 
I'm planning the in cab wiring of my dual winch set up and I need some input. Would any of you see the need to use them both at the same time? The way that I would like to wire the switching would make for a slick installation and not clutter my open dash spots, but it will only enable me to control one winch at a time.
 
darasick said:
I'm planning the in cab wiring of my dual winch set up and I need some input. Would any of you see the need to use them both at the same time? The way that I would like to wire the switching would make for a slick installation and not clutter my open dash spots, but it will only enable me to control one winch at a time.
Click to expand...

Don't see the need to run both at the same time bud either a front or rear pull normally besides that would be a lot of draw on one battery running both at the same time. Can see maybe using the front to secure you as an anchor on an incline for a rear pull but wouldn't need to use them both. Just my .2 :)
 
Volunteer said:
Don't see the need to run both at the same time bud either a front or rear pull normally besides that would be a lot of draw on one battery running both at the same time. Can see maybe using the front to secure you as an anchor on an incline for a rear pull but wouldn't need to use them both. Just my .2 :)
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x2 :grinpimp:
 
Excellent! Thanks :cheers:
 
Paul, all that red crap in my coolant system that you said was from the dexcool. do I need to flush it and put fresh? I am thinking yes but you didnt seem to concerned about it up in Tenn.
 
BikerTrash said:
Paul, all that red crap in my coolant system that you said was from the dexcool. do I need to flush it and put fresh? I am thinking yes but you didnt seem to concerned about it up in Tenn.
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yes flush & make sure you replace it :D
 
lostinafog said:
make sure you replace it :D
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Am I ever going to live that down ?:frown:






But seriously, someone told me not to go back with dexcool, that once the system is contaminated you you will never get it clean again and just to use the green.
 
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