- Thread starter
- #841
More pics.
Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gswest
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AC switch is powered when the heater blower is switched on. You need to check that first.
Can you explain about the history of your AC system, was it in the car and what happened to it during your build?
Can you explain about the history of your AC system, was it in the car and what happened to it during your build?
Can you locate your dryer/filter, normaly a spray can sized canister with a small check glass on top. It shuild be located in the high pressure (thin) tube just after the condensor (radiator).
- Thread starter
- #844
Yes, I did replace the dryer when I replaced the compressor. It's all new. It came with the new compressor.
Is the wiring all original?
- Thread starter
- #847
Why would the A/C need the heater switch on to get power to the A/C?
Thanks Cbmontgo !
Thanks Cbmontgo !
Looks to me like your printed-circuit is broken between my arrows here (and if so, this could well be the cause of your elusive AC problem Scott):
So if it was me, I'd bridge across this with a short bit of wire....
You'll need a soldering iron that has a "fine-point tip" and a good amount of heating power though.
The trick is to do the job fast and neatly rather than slow (which could allow heat to damage other things) and roughly (which would look ugly and may, if you were to drop too much solder in, bridge onto other nearby circuits).
PS. I think the heater switch would be involved only if your AC evaporator relied on the heaters blower fan.. But I believe your evaporator instead has its own dedicated fan. (And on this basis, I don't think the heater switch needs to be on for your particular AC system to work.)
PPS. You'll need a roll of flux-cored solder too..
So if it was me, I'd bridge across this with a short bit of wire....
You'll need a soldering iron that has a "fine-point tip" and a good amount of heating power though.
The trick is to do the job fast and neatly rather than slow (which could allow heat to damage other things) and roughly (which would look ugly and may, if you were to drop too much solder in, bridge onto other nearby circuits).
PS. I think the heater switch would be involved only if your AC evaporator relied on the heaters blower fan.. But I believe your evaporator instead has its own dedicated fan. (And on this basis, I don't think the heater switch needs to be on for your particular AC system to work.)
PPS. You'll need a roll of flux-cored solder too..
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The AC in a car should only work with an active blower.
Your system looks to be OEM if so it uses the heater blower.
Your system looks to be OEM if so it uses the heater blower.
- Thread starter
- #850
The A/C unit has it's own blower. It's a self contained system much like the aftermarket ones. The heater blower is only ducted to the heater unit, unless I'm missing something here. My 62 uses the same blower for heat and A/C, but it's a typical factory system. These Nipondenso under dash units are really just an afterthought design, which is better than nothing but not very efficient or effective. It would be nice if both blowers ran when the A/C was on because the actual breeze from the A/C is not very strong. I do know that the 2 systems have some common wiring which I can't figure out. We're having a nice cold front currently down here in Florida so I'm Okay for now.
But on a different note, I decided to move the A/C controller from the radio position (since the controller doesn't seem to work anyway) and I'm putting a radio back in that spot. I really just wanted something to fill the open spot in the dash but as always, this little addition created several mini projects. Where to put the speakers, what radio will fit in that small opening, where to run the wires, where to re-install an antenna (it won't work in the original position because of the snorkel). I went with an enclosed speaker (not expensive) from Pioneer and the radio itself is just that, a radio with no CD player but with bluetooth and USB conectivity. The speaker location is a compromise and looks a little funny, but I'm okay with it for now.
But on a different note, I decided to move the A/C controller from the radio position (since the controller doesn't seem to work anyway) and I'm putting a radio back in that spot. I really just wanted something to fill the open spot in the dash but as always, this little addition created several mini projects. Where to put the speakers, what radio will fit in that small opening, where to run the wires, where to re-install an antenna (it won't work in the original position because of the snorkel). I went with an enclosed speaker (not expensive) from Pioneer and the radio itself is just that, a radio with no CD player but with bluetooth and USB conectivity. The speaker location is a compromise and looks a little funny, but I'm okay with it for now.
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- Thread starter
- #851
Thanks Tom,
I thought that area on the circuit board looked suspicious. Now the question is: where can I get this controller from or one that will work? Or can the circuit board be repaired?
I thought that area on the circuit board looked suspicious. Now the question is: where can I get this controller from or one that will work? Or can the circuit board be repaired?
Although there doesn't appear to be a crack where the copper is showing, you can carefully scrape away the resin (not the copper circuit board) and put some solder there to bridge any gaps if any. Other option is to hunt a controller down in Australia or otherwise take to a electronics technician to check other circuit components including resistors, capacitors etc for continuity. Good luck and fantastic rebuild by the way.
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- #853
Thank's Trajkula!
I'll take it to someone who can verify it's functionality. I'm sure I can get someone here local to either fix the board or tell me it's toast.
I'll take it to someone who can verify it's functionality. I'm sure I can get someone here local to either fix the board or tell me it's toast.
So the switch Attached to the board is your AC blower switch?
I don't use "smart phones".
So I'm looking at that picture on a decent-sized screen.
I find that good photos ... when viewed 0n a decent screen ...can show as as much detail as if you were looking at the item with a "jeweller's magnifying monocle".
And I'm seeing a pretty clear crack right across that copper between the red arrows I placed.
And I'd personally try and repair it exactly as I described by bridging across the two blobs of solder.
Trying to clean up that tarnished/overheated printed-circuit-board-copper enough to get solder to stick to it properly is too difficult in my humble opinion.
And I believe the reason the copper there became tarnished is from arcing occurring across the crack that I believe I can quite clearly see.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
Why don't you do what Tom said? Solder a piece of wire between those to spots.
Rudi
Rudi
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
This diagram is from an A/C system for 40 series 1979 and later.
Hope this helps,
Rudi
Hope this helps,
Rudi
- Thread starter
- #858
Thanks BJ40green for the schematic and thanks Tom for the advice on the soldering fix.
Yes "Waiting for time", There are 2 switches on the controller and one controls the fan speed, the other controls the temp or the compressor.
I don't think my soldering gun will do the job quickly enough as Tom suggest, so I may take it to a electronics guy who can do it right and verify that it is good to go.
The help here is much appreciated! I continue to learn something each time I come here for input.
Yes "Waiting for time", There are 2 switches on the controller and one controls the fan speed, the other controls the temp or the compressor.
I don't think my soldering gun will do the job quickly enough as Tom suggest, so I may take it to a electronics guy who can do it right and verify that it is good to go.
The help here is much appreciated! I continue to learn something each time I come here for input.
Just go with a blob of solder over that exposed copper mate. It'll do the job fine. It's fairly easy to do so at the same time as holding the soldering iron on the circuit board introduce some solder onto the tip and let a little flow onto the board. It will literally take 5 seconds. Clean the tip of your soldering iron beforehand, it will help.
Just give your soldering iron time to heat up properly and it will work with both methods.
