Tearing down my HJ47 troopy

[gswest]

Thanks Tom! Thank you all!
Obviously, no one here in the states has any idea how this Nippon Denso system is supposed to work. It was a factory installation on a truck that never was exported to the U.S. I'm well aware of the non- U.S. issue problems. Luckily, we have the internet!! You guy's on this site have saved my #%& too many times to count.

 

[Honger]

Wow! Just wrapped up this build thread. Very nice troopy. I don't have much to offer you on your AC woes, but keep at it. There isn't a problem you've been stopped by yet.

 

[gswest]

Thanks Honger.

 

[gswest]

We're dealing with a separate issue now which involves my daily driver; the Fj62. It's A/C is crapping out and since I drive that everyday, it's more of an issue. That doesn't belong here on this thread, but that's why I haven't moved forward with the Troopy's A/C woes. I did get a laugh at work the other day when a new guy on the fire department asked if I imported the Troopy. I said I didn't but someone did. He then said "is that a new model they only sell overseas? It was a young guy, but I got a charge telling him it was a 1981 model from Australia.

 

[gswest]

No progress on the A/C issue yet. I went through the schematic (thoughtfully provided here!) and came up with zero. I'm convinced I have a ground wire issue, so that's where I'm looking. But, in the end, I may just run a hot wire through the pressure switch to a switch in the cab that will give power to the compressor. A friend suggested doing just that but running the hot wire off the A/C blower circuit so as to not turn on the compressor without the blower being on. This will circumvent the thermister, which I don't fully understand it's function, but it will allow me to get compressor function. I'm moving to the pacific northwest (Washington) soon, mainly because I won't need A/C in my vehicle as often. That's not stupid is it?

 

[78fj40mg]

I'm moving to the pacific northwest (Washington) soon, mainly because I won't need A/C in my vehicle as often. That's not stupid is it?

Not at all stupid. A/C will not be necessary in WA. When are you moving?

 

[gswest]

Mike,
I can retire any time, but I plan to leave in 3 years. Probably somewhere in the Olympia area. We're over the Florida thing! We've been up to Washington, Oregon and Vancouver a few times lately and we're hooked. There is nowhere that I've been that has better weather (moderate) and looks so different from Florida. Your winters are gloomy, but our summers are blistering! It's all a trade off, but we like it up there! Any suggestions on a good location that avoids the harsh winter weather.
We understand that as you go east, the weather gets colder in the winter?? The mountain range?

 

[gswest]

I've decided to quit fighting the A/C wiring issue and just run a switched and fused wire off the heater circuit through the low pressure switch. As long as I make sure to have the A/C fan on when I switch the compressor on, I think I'll be OK. It blows cold. I'm using a protected switch, so I don't turn on the compressor by mistake. If there's a reason this will harm the compressor, someone here can let me know. But for now, I'm moving on to finally swap out the 4.11 front diff for the 3.70 diff so I can get the truck back into 4X4 status.

 

[MrMoMo]

If you power a relay coil from the fan switch (relay pin 85), and feed the relay pin 30 from your protected switch, ground pin 86, then feed your compressor from the relay pin 87, it will only turn on if your fan is on....

 

[gswest]

Thanks MrMomo.
Unfortunately for me I wouldn't know pin 30 from pin 2000. Are you referencing a diagragm? I'm not a good electrical guy among other deficiencies.

 

[bj40green]

He is referring to this relay:

But this model has a double output 87 (used for 2 horns or 2 headlights or 2 whatever).
85 and 86 are the coil and 30 and 87 are the switch.

Rudi

 

[MrMoMo]

Sorry, yeah, standard "Bosch style" automotive relay available at most automotive stores for $5-$10 or so. The numbers are usually moulded right into the plastic, or screen printed onto it - as per the image Rudi posted above.

 

[gswest]

Thanks guys. I've moved on from the A/C issue with the full understanding that it works now, but it's not functioning correctly. I think the A/C controller is bad and I can't find that replacement part as far as I can tell. All the electronic tips are appreciated. It's working; there's condensation dripping out and cold air blowing in.
I'll revisit that issue later. In the mean time I've swapped out the front differential with the 3.70 third member. All went well after a few issues were sorted out. First of which was I apparently under torqued the right side hub bearing on re-installation. How did I find out? After a few test drives trying to sort out the brake issue I realized the front hub was not tight anymore. In other words, the tire was wobbling when I jacked the front end up. I only drove around the block, but Holy Crap! If the brakes weren't acting up, I would have drove the truck around ignorant that the right front bearing wasn't seated. I thought I went through the steps correctly, but obviously I didn't torque the nut down enough before I staked the lock washer onto the lock nut. I used a fish scale which I've used before on my 62, to determine pre-load. The bottom line, re-check your bearing preload after driving the truck. Mine was set to specs. Obviously I missed something! This could have been a huge issue later. My wheel was extremely wobbly when I jacked the truck up to check the brakes. My mistake today will hopefully save somebody tomorrow!

 

[lostmarbles]

.... I apparently under torqued the right side hub bearing on re-installation. How did I find out? After a few test drives trying to sort out the brake issue I realized the front hub was not tight anymore. In other words, the tire was wobbling when I jacked the front end up. I only drove around the block, but Holy Crap! If the brakes weren't acting up, I would have drove the truck around ignorant that the right front bearing wasn't seated. I thought I went through the steps correctly, but obviously I didn't torque the nut down enough before I staked the lock washer onto the lock nut. I used a fish scale which I've used before on my 62, to determine pre-load. The bottom line, re-check your bearing preload after driving the truck. Mine was set to specs. Obviously I missed something! This could have been a huge issue later. My wheel was extremely wobbly when I jacked the truck up to check the brakes. My mistake today will hopefully save somebody tomorrow!

Gosh!

Did you follow the FSM as far as applying extra-torque to press/seat the bearings properly (before loosening that off and then torquing to a very much lower level to set the preload)?

 

[gswest]

Tom,
I missed something obviously; could have been catastrophic! I'll re-visit this tomorrow. Brakes are (sort-of) important! If you like to breath!

 

[waiting for time]

Don't forget to turn a few times before loosening the preload.

 

[gswest]

I think I may know why I can't get the air out of my brake lines.

 

[lostmarbles]

I think I may know why I can't get the air out of my brake lines.

Damn... That's so annoying, especially when you've gone to so much trouble with that beautiful paint!

(Don't let it get you down though... I think these things happen to us all.)

 

[gswest]

They do Tom, and quite often. As for your question about whether I torqued the bearing nut down to seat it and then loosened it to specs; I don't think I did that as per the service manual. I remember doing it on my 62 when I redid the seals and bearings on that truck, but honestly, I think I just tighten it down and got the lb/ft reading on the scale and called it good. I of course checked the other side to see if it was loose and it wasn't so I'm one lucky bastard to have caught my mistake before running down the road at full speed. Oh well, I live to screw up another day. On a unrelated note, I ordered a new brake master and removed the master and servo unit. It would be nice if they made a paint that could withstand brake fluid. But I guess the melting paint should serve as a warning for a normal person. I ignored it until I couldn't bleed the air out of the brake system. Oddly, this didn't happen until I removed the brakes from the front while installing the 3.70 diff in the front axle. I had great brakes until I tried to re-install the fronts after the diff swap. Maybe the pressure of bleeding the system was enough to expose the bad seals on the master cylinder??

 

[lostmarbles]

.... It would be nice if they made a paint that could withstand brake fluid. .....

I've found POR15 is completely unaffected by brake fluid. But this doesn't represent a solution for your booster because silver POR15 primer turns a sickly golden colour if it's left un-topcoated. But it is a solution for your master and slave cylinders because black POR15 primer still looks OK (ie. nice and black) when it is left bare (un-topcoated).



PS. Actually --- I wonder if the POR15-brand top-coats are similarly unaffected by brake fluid. I use only their primer paints so I don't know about their topcoats.
(I find their primer is extremely good for both rust-prevention and chip-resistance but their top-coats, when I tried them, didn't impress me enough to justify their high cost - so that's why I never use them.)