Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (1 Viewer)

[Weber Sarge]

There should be a ring that centers the drive shaft end flange onto the rear gear yoke flange - the bolt pattern just holds it together . If you really want to replace the gear's flange go with one from Marlin , Cruiser Outfitter's or similar - they offer up a multi-pattern flange that will fit any Toyota shaft .
Sarge

 

[gswest]

Thanks Sarge!

 

[gswest]

While I wait for parts to arrive, I've found the rear differential's pinion seal is leaking. So I've removed the seal and ordered new ones along with stake nuts and crush sleeves for both diffs. A new complication is that I can't get the crush sleeve off the already installed rear diff because the expanded (crushed) part of the sleeve is wider than the outer pinion bearing race.
I took the other diff, which is on the bench, apart and removed the crush sleeve that way, but I'm hating the idea that I have to take the rear axles out again and remove the diff completely just to get that sleeve off. I'm looking for an easy way to remove that outer race but it's not looking too good. This may be another job that I get to do twice.

 

[gswest]

Well with a little modification, I was able to make a relatively cheap Harbor Freight puller work to get the bearing race out. I had to grind the teeth down so all three would fit into the opening around the pinion shaft and grab the bearing race. The puller set came with 3 different size pullers; 3", 4" and 6". I used the 3" teeth parts (ground down) with the 6" rod and arms. There's probably a tool that would have worked that wouldn't have needed to be modified; I just couldn't find it locally. Now I'm deciding if I want to wait for a new pinion flange bearing to arrive or just re-install the original one. It looks OK, but it seems a shame not to replace it while I'm in there. I'd be curious what others here think about re-installing bearings of unknown age?? It's not scored and my only issue is patience; I want to get it back on the road now! I haven't even started the front diff swap yet, but was intending to run it for a short while with the front shaft disconnected. Get a little enjoyment before tearing into the front axles.

 

[lostmarbles]

Well with a little modification, I was able to make a relatively cheap Harbor Freight puller work to get the bearing race out. I had to grind the teeth down so all three would fit into the opening around the pinion shaft and grab the bearing race. The puller set came with 3 different size pullers; 3", 4" and 6". I used the 3" teeth parts (ground down) with the 6" rod and arms. There's probably a tool that would have worked that wouldn't have needed to be modified; I just couldn't find it locally. Now I'm deciding if I want to wait for a new pinion flange bearing to arrive or just re-install the original one. It looks OK, but it seems a shame not to replace it while I'm in there. I'd be curious what others here think about re-installing bearings of unknown age?? It's not scored and my only issue is patience; I want to get it back on the road now! I haven't even started the front diff swap yet, but was intending to run it for a short while with the front shaft disconnected. Get a little enjoyment before tearing into the front axles.View attachment 1014498

At least when a puller is cheap you don't mind butchering it a little Scott.

(Wish we had the equivalent of Harbour Freight here.)

BTW - I'm in the "replace the bearing camp". It may be in good nick but it looks like it's done its share of miles and a new bearing of a reputable brand gives better "peace-of-mind" for me. (I'll only reuse if I've been in there myself before and know the existing bearing not only looks good but is also low-miles.)

 

[gswest]

Thanks Tom ! I know that's the right choice. Damn it!

 

[geoffnlp]

I'm with Tom on this one, even though it stinks waiting a little longer at least you will have peace of mind, good luck.

GS, by the way where did you pick up the 370 diffs? Thanks, Geoff.

 

[BU5H P1G]

I would also have to agree with Tom. Imagine having to pull short a good holiday/drive if a old bearing gave up its ghost... i would be kicking my self.

 

[gswest]

Geoff,
This is where I got the 3.70 diffs.

TLC Junktion
northfloridafinds (1193 )99.7%

 

[geoffnlp]

Thanks for the info.

 

[gswest]

No problem Geoff.
I did get the new u-joints in and the new/used flanges that will mate up to my new/used diff output flanges. I pulled the pinion seal on the other diff so I can replace both; the other one will probably leak as well. I'v conceded that I have to wait on the new pinion bearings before I button everything up. I could begin the tear down of the front diff while I'm waiting. I've got the seal kit and bearings that will be arriving in a week or so,

I'm guessing. So, I'll probably take the front axles out and exchange the diff while I wait. Thanks for all the input guys!

 

[gswest]

I've figured out that I can't set the pre load on my rear pinion bearing now because I already installed the diff. I hadn't planned on removing the pinion nut until I filled the installed unit with oil and it began leaking out the pinion seal. My confusion was predicated by the fact that when my FJ62 began leaking there a few years ago, I replaced the seal without any concern for the pinion pre load or torque specs. I just put in the seal and tightened the nut up. No problems that I could detect since then. Flash forward, and Ive got 2 new/used diffs and several $$ invested and I'm thinking that getting them in right might be prudent. Not to mention, it might break at a inoportune moment. So, I'm in the middle of setting up the new 3.70 front diff and to be honest, its not that easy getting the various settings spot on. were dealing with a crush sleeve and I've read volumes on the subject but experience and book knowledge are not the same. Getting enough pre load on the pinion bearing is difficult eapecially not ever doing it before. I'm at 200 lbs torque pressure and not getting the 20 -25 in lbs resistance on the pinion flange. I did install a new outer pinion bearing. So Im going with new bearing specs for pre load. My brother and I wrenched the hell out of it; we improperly used an impact wrench (judiciously) and still couldn't get it tight enough. This doesn't even go into the fact I have to take the rear unit back out to set it's pinion bearing pre load. But its OK, I'll get right if it kills me, or somebody. Kidding!

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Scott

I replaced a diff pinion seal a very long time ago (and way more than 100,000kms ago) and didn't do anything at all about bearing preload other than to remove shims until I could detect no abnormal play in those bearings. (My diffs don't use crush sleeves.)

I'm not recommending this course of action .... but you're not the only one by any means that's done this sort of thing without experiencing any bad effects (such as diff whine).

But I can say that my experience of trying to obtain FSM bearing preload figures on wheelbearings was a bad one with bearing failure and axle damage occurring about 90,000kms later if I recall correctly (and I believe I do).

So my bad experience with wheel bearings suggests (to me at least) that it's wise to avoid imposing an unreasonable level of thrust-loading on a pair of taper-roller bearings simply to obtain an FSM preload figure.

I'll never do it again personally anyway.... (I prefer to let my own judgement over-ride the FSM specification on this topic now.)

 

[gswest]

Thanks Tom. I'm starting over because I now realize the inch pound torque wrench I was using to check the pinion bearing pre-load isn't an inch pound torque wrench at all. The guys at the parts store told me it was and Me (like an idiot) didn't look at the Ft. lb. designation. I accept the dumb ass of the year award for this stupidity. Anyway, I ordered the proper wrench (not available around here). So when it gets here, I'll start over because I probably over crushed the sleeve. Luckily I mistakenly ordered 3 crush sleeve kits with seals and nuts. I did get some Prussian blue paint to check the gear mesh pattern. Eventually this thing will roll again.

 

[gswest]

We got the inch pound torque wrench in today from a bicycle supply store online (Bikewagon). I began the process of tightening down the pinion flange nut, and based on the service manual, you tighten it to 181-325 ft. lbs. I started at 180 and then went to 190 ft. lbs. That 10 lb increase over-torqued the crush sleeve. I had something like 3 or 4 inch pounds of resistance at 180 lbs. When I went to 190, I had over 50 inch lbs of resistance. So I had to use my third crush sleeve kit, which meant I had to remove (destroy) the brand new oil seal and start over. No big deal because the front diff is going to take a little while before I start the removal and replacement. So I can re-order another kit. The front drive shaft is removed, so I can drive it around in 2 wheel drive mode while I re-order the oil seal/crush sleeve kit for the front. Strangely, one of those kits I got from SOR had a pinion nut that was too small, so I re-used the original nut. Another issue was the correct size nuts they did supply are too tall to be able to actually stake. The stake section of the nut is above the threads, so you couldn't actually stake them. They're about an 1/8th inch taller than original nuts that I found on the diffs that I'm using. So we re-used the original stake nuts. After installing a new crush sleeve and starting the process over, I was able to get the 25 inch lbs of resistance at around 180 ft. lbs of torque. I started at 150 lbs and went up in 10 lb increments. I should have done 5 lb increments because I almost over torqued it the second time, but it came in a 25 inch lbs, which is fine. I drove it around the neighborhood and there's no question, it definitely makes the truck more drive-able. I wasn't reaching for another gear. The turbo helps give it the torque to get going from a stop. Without the turbo, you might not want the 3.70 gears, but with it, I'm very happy. Now I just have to get the front diff replaced.

 

[Weber Sarge]

This is why I use solid spacers . Glad you got it dialed in ...
Sarge

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Use a 7" cutting wheel on a grinder and cut the ujoint out. Way easier. Then just tap what remains of the cap towards the center.

 

[gswest]

I did use the grinder on the first one at a point where frustration set in. You're right, it is easier.

 

[gswest]

While I wait for the pinion seal kit, I'm looking into the apparent ground issue with my heater blower and A/C unit (they wont turn on). I had played around with the blower and connected a wire from the WB (ground) wire on the blower to the chassis. The blower turned on. Unfortunately, the switch was in the off position. I know there are those here who understand why that is, but I'm not in that group. I decided to buy a $5 switch from the local parts store and connect it to this ground wire, thus I could turn on and off my heater (not that I need it here in Florida). Well, that seemed easy but of course it wasn't. When I went for a test drive yesterday, the heater blower came on spontaneously on its own. I realized that my quick fix was no fix at all. A little research online and I understand now that I have a ground problem and will begin that search next. So if anyone out there has or has had a similar issue, chime in. I'm no electrical genius to say the least. I may need a heater some day; we're thinking about moving up to Washington state in a few years.

 

[gswest]

I got the front pinion flange seal in and was able to set the pinion bearing preload correctly, finally. It took 247 lbs of torque to get the right preload. Lucky for me because my torque wrench only goes to 250 lbs. The rear diff only took 195 lbs to get the approx. same preload. So, apparently that's why you can't just torque them to a set pressure when using these crush sleeves. They all take a different torque number to get a set amount of preload. The next step is to remove the front 4.11 diff and get this one in. I've been through the dirty and tedious job of replacing seals and felts on my front birfields on my 62, so I'm not exactly looking forward to starting the front differential swap. I won't be going off road anytime soon, so driving in 2 wheel drive mode is fine. But I'm definitely glad I switched to 3.70 gears; it makes a huge difference in this truck. That and the addition of the turbo have been money well spent. I doubt that I'll have to do the 5 speed upgrade since I don't anticipate any long road trips. I'll post up some pics when I start the front axle removal.