- Thread starter
- #261
Funny Man! I will get them clipped when this truck is done.
Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter gswest
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
Rear drive shaft installed
One step closer. Now I can put power to the rear wheels.
One step closer. Now I can put power to the rear wheels.
- Thread starter
- #263
FJ62 versus HJ47 u-joint
We're comparing the front axle of the 47 to the rear axle of the 62. Wow, what a difference in that joint. 1981 47 to a 1988 62. The big knuckle is the HJ. When you look at this picture, realize that that front HJ axle is what I had to deal with on the back. It took all afternoon to get it looking right. So the front will take another afternoon, soaking, rinsing, grinding , repeat!
Then paint
Ignore the toes bro!
We're comparing the front axle of the 47 to the rear axle of the 62. Wow, what a difference in that joint. 1981 47 to a 1988 62. The big knuckle is the HJ. When you look at this picture, realize that that front HJ axle is what I had to deal with on the back. It took all afternoon to get it looking right. So the front will take another afternoon, soaking, rinsing, grinding , repeat!
Then paint
Ignore the toes bro!
- Thread starter
- #264
Why is that U joint so big on the front axle of the HJ47? It's 7 years older and wasn't exported to the U.S.
It's a DC joint, to my knowlage not original.
They use them when the shaft is to short for the angle it has to make, the third member is pointed up in line with the shaft and the DC balances itself out.
The joints in a drive shaft are counter balanced, they individualy create an inbalance and by using them in the same angle opposite to each other they balance each other. With a DC you create the balance in one joint increasing the total angle it can make.
It will create imbalance with the third in normal position since three joints don't balance each other out.
Hope this makes sence.
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
They use them when the shaft is to short for the angle it has to make, the third member is pointed up in line with the shaft and the DC balances itself out.
The joints in a drive shaft are counter balanced, they individualy create an inbalance and by using them in the same angle opposite to each other they balance each other. With a DC you create the balance in one joint increasing the total angle it can make.
It will create imbalance with the third in normal position since three joints don't balance each other out.
Hope this makes sence.
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #266
Maybe because its been lifted?
normaly you see them on 40 with a SOA on the (short) rear drive shaft.
A DC joint is actually original on some HJ47's. While no other 40's of the same vintage had them. It's in the parts book and all. Yours probably has the bracket around the drive shaft to catch it if it failes too. Also an HJ47 only part.
HTH,
Mark
HTH,
Mark
- Thread starter
- #269
Good to know. I can't remember if I took off a bracket or not. I've got parts stored in 2 locations, so I won't know for sure until I get it back together.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
- Thread starter
- #270
Cleaned up front shaft
Another afternoon degreasing stuff. Before and after.
Another afternoon degreasing stuff. Before and after.
- Thread starter
- #271
Front shaft installed
I got the front drive shaft back on after replacing one of the grease nipples which was broke off. I used an Easy-Out to get the threaded part out and got a replacement at the local Autozone. You can see why the DC joint is needed when you install it; the angle is slightly extreme compared to the rear.
I got the front drive shaft back on after replacing one of the grease nipples which was broke off. I used an Easy-Out to get the threaded part out and got a replacement at the local Autozone. You can see why the DC joint is needed when you install it; the angle is slightly extreme compared to the rear.
- Thread starter
- #272
Do over on the transfer case
After my FJ62 transfercase rebuild, I realized I put both idler shaft thrust washers in backwards. So, I got to take it back apart and reverse the washers. I wasn't 100% sure I did it incorrectly, but when I removed the rear case, I found the back washer was in-fact backwards. The front washer fell out before I could verify it's placement. The pics show how I found the back washer and the correct way it should be placed.
After my FJ62 transfercase rebuild, I realized I put both idler shaft thrust washers in backwards. So, I got to take it back apart and reverse the washers. I wasn't 100% sure I did it incorrectly, but when I removed the rear case, I found the back washer was in-fact backwards. The front washer fell out before I could verify it's placement. The pics show how I found the back washer and the correct way it should be placed.
Hi
what kind of paint you used for transmision and engine??
Im up to doit mine and I like to se the options, and your looks very profesional!!!
QUOTE=gswest;7169599]I painted the Bell housing so I guess I have to install the new clutch parts. I'm thinking i don't have to resurface the flywheel, it looks pretty good and the local shops here don't seem to do that very often. Am I right that if the surface isn't scored I'm good to reinstall everything? If you run a fingernail on the surface you can't feel any scratches or wear lines.[/QUOTE]
what kind of paint you used for transmision and engine??
Im up to doit mine and I like to se the options, and your looks very profesional!!!
QUOTE=gswest;7169599]I painted the Bell housing so I guess I have to install the new clutch parts. I'm thinking i don't have to resurface the flywheel, it looks pretty good and the local shops here don't seem to do that very often. Am I right that if the surface isn't scored I'm good to reinstall everything? If you run a fingernail on the surface you can't feel any scratches or wear lines.[/QUOTE]
Looking great as always
- Thread starter
- #275
Paint
The paint is high temp engine paint. The black is a flat paint. I got it from Bennet Auto parts.
The paint is high temp engine paint. The black is a flat paint. I got it from Bennet Auto parts.
- Thread starter
- #276
Thanks Cruiserjunkie!
thanks Gswest!!
- Thread starter
- #278
Waiting on the body shop
We found a patch panel for the rusted cowl section and getting it installed is the next phase. I'll post up pictures as soon as it happens.
We found a patch panel for the rusted cowl section and getting it installed is the next phase. I'll post up pictures as soon as it happens.
- Thread starter
- #279
Recent progress
It's going slowly at the body shop, but there has been some progress and the body is moving towards paint. As I mentioned earlier, the replacement cowl section was purchased and prepared for insatallation. It had a rectangular cut out section that baffled us, because I've not seen a 40 with that opening in the cowl. But, the guys welded it up and hopefully it gets installed with no issues. They're getting the body sides prepped for paint and I'll post up more pics as they progress. The motor and chasis wait paitiently.
It's going slowly at the body shop, but there has been some progress and the body is moving towards paint. As I mentioned earlier, the replacement cowl section was purchased and prepared for insatallation. It had a rectangular cut out section that baffled us, because I've not seen a 40 with that opening in the cowl. But, the guys welded it up and hopefully it gets installed with no issues. They're getting the body sides prepped for paint and I'll post up more pics as they progress. The motor and chasis wait paitiently.
Looks great. That vent is for a cowl vent which functioned on the pre-75 FJ40s and then was a dummy up until about 1978. You are better off without it as the drains tended to block with debris and then rust out and/or flood the interior every time it rained or snowed.
josh
