Tearing down my HJ47 troopy

[gswest]

Thanks Kajun,
I'm stalling for time right now until I can get it back in the body shop for the interior paint and bed liner coating for the floor. Then I can finish the dashboard wiring and steering wheel install, etc.
A thought occurred to me though as I look at some of my parts. Why did I take the windows out of the front doors. I could have done the sand blasting and primer with out taking them out. Putting them back in will not be fun I don't expect.

 

[SOOT]

Soldiering On I see, nice work on the heater and a/c unit. If you need to get that a/c unit out of the way like your heater you can store it in my cruiser, I know I know, I am a nice guy.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Thanks Kajun,
I'm stalling for time right now until I can get it back in the body shop for the interior paint and bed liner coating for the floor. Then I can finish the dashboard wiring and steering wheel install, etc.
A thought occurred to me though as I look at some of my parts. Why did I take the windows out of the front doors. I could have done the sand blasting and primer with out taking them out. Putting them back in will not be fun I don't expect.

It's not so bad as you imagine - the FSM explains the process quite well.

 

[gswest]

Thanks HJ47, Ill be well versed in that part of the service manual by the time I get those windows back in, but its good to know there is help. And no, Soot, I can store my A/C unit here just fine! I live in Florida, nobody gets to hold my A/C but me.

 

[gswest]

I got the new AC compressor in and was initially disappointed because it lacked one of the attachment tangs. I was ready to send it back and pay a restocking charge + shipping, when I realized I could use it by making a separate bracket. The compressor is a Nippon Denso unit and was used in US models (I'm assuming). Anyways, everything lines up; 4 of the bolts line up and will work, the 5th one on the original has no tang on the new unit. The second pic shows the mounting bracket and where the unit doesn't have the matching bolt hole on the bottom. The top bolt hole on the unit matches my original which doesn't connect to anything. These units had to fit several vehicles and the extra (apparently unnecessary on my truck) bolt position is OK. I have a piece of heavy gauge metal that I can make a bracket from which will connect these two sections. It shouldn't look too un-original when it's done.The electrical plug is the same, the refrigerant connections match, so we're gonna run it!

 

[gswest]

After grinding down 2 of the mounting flanges, adding some spacers and making a bracket, the compressor fits nicely. I found the pulley was off alignment by 1/16th of an inch, thus the grinding. We'll be ready to chill, as long as the other components work. I put on the old belt to make sure it lines up and have new belts going on next.

 

[gswest]

Some minor progress today; got the new fan blade from SOR and the new flex downpipe from Summit Racing. I had to shorten the flange coming off the turbo by 1/2 inch so the clamp could go on, but other than that, no issues. I also got a neat item for the exhaust. I don't know what it's called, but it will let me run a straight thru exhaust (muffler-free) but also have the ability to close off the pipe for a quite ride. I personally love the way the turbo sounds sans muffler, but maybe a quieter ride will be necessary someday. Since my exhaust guy will have to build a new system soon anyway, I figured this would be the time to add this little extra item. Never seen one on a cruiser before, though.

 

[erics]

you need a cable actuated flap for that muffler bypass deal... be able to select it on demand

 

[gswest]

I saw that one and no doubt it would be cool, but too many $$. I'm going to run it open 99% of the time, so it's not a big deal to have to manually close it off. If I ever sell it, the next guy can drive it quite or drive it sounding like an Abrams Tank, the way I like it.

 

[Kajun]

If I ever sell it, the next guy can...

Blasphemy. You put this much time into it and would even let that thought leave your fingertips.
On second thought. I'll take it.

 

[Chamba]

I ran my turbo 2h with no muffler and it wasn't loud at all. That turbo chops the sound up into little bite-sized sound waves.

 

[gswest]

No, the exhaust isn't too loud without the muffler. I like the sound of the turbo. And no, it won't be on the market until I've put at least another 100,000 miles on it. Which means probably never. But everybody says that until a new obsession comes along.

 

[Chamba]

No, the exhaust isn't too loud without the muffler. I like the sound of the turbo. And no, it won't be on the market until I've put at least another 100,000 miles on it. Which means probably never. But everybody says that until a new obsession comes along.

And then they whinge incidently: "man, I never should have sold my Cruiser...." Then they eventually buy another one and start all over again. Better to just hang on to this one I reckon.

 

[gswest]

I'm not sure if I'll keep this section of exhaust, but it'll at least get me to the muffler shop to get the new system completed.

 

[gswest]

After grinding the welds down, I got the exhaust run back to the splitter. I'll get a muffler shop to do the back section where the muffler and tail pipe exit out behind the rear tire. Still a few months away from getting it running, but the exhaust is 60% done.

 

[gswest]

I'm getting the radiator and A/C condenser ready for install and decided to keep the upper section of the radiator natural. In other words ; copper. Not sure if that's a good idea as far as corrosion goes, but I could coat it with something. I was thinking it looked cool and I didn't think they used copper anymore for radiators. Am I wrong?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The bare copper will turn a strong verdigris color in no time, and the streaks will run down the rest of the rad. It won't look that good, and I actually like verdigris in a lot of cases, like on roofs.

Copper and aluminum are the standard material choices for rads. I prefer the copper because it offers some hope of field repairability using a portable propane torch and soldering rod.

I think it is better to paint it black.

 

[gswest]

HJ,
So, there's no clear coat that will work? High temp clear?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I dunno. You could try it, but clear coat is intended to bond to a primer and paint substrate, not to bare metal. I predict it would peel.

 

[gswest]

I hear you; I love the bare copper though. But I'll paint it black if there's no high temp clear option. There probably isn't a high temp clear coat available, unless you work for NASA. OH well, just waiting for the final paint work on the body... Thanks for the input bro!