Tear down questions

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by gillti, Oct 24, 2005.

  1. gillti

    gillti

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    Greetings. On advice from many of you, I have begun to tear apart the head on my 2f. I actually had a really good time doing this. I was extremely particular about marking everything and taking a ridiculous amount of pictures for when I have to put it all back together. Anyway, I got down to the head and I see there are 14 bolts I must remove.

    Here are some questions:
    1. Do I have to take off all the valve stuff (not the cover, obviously, got that off already)? in order to get off the head? (any advice on how to lift this thing out is appreciated!
    2. Any particular order to undo the bolts?
    3. Torque when putting them back? what is the pressure?

    4. Here is something strange. This engine was rebuilt about 18 months ago, obviously a crappy job since I blew a head gasket and it overheated the whole time I have owned it. BUT: when I was disassemblying all the bolts were barely on. One push and then it was basically finger loosening them. Is this right? Seems like many of them should have been much tighter. BTW this was from the manifold, to the carb, to the egr stuff, everywhere!

    any wisdom and any sort of advanced advice for the rest of the work is appreciated.

    tjg
     
  2. snorider

    snorider

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    tj,

    Sounds like a good mechanic to stay far away from in the future. The head on the 2F is really easy to pull sounds like you are doing right so far. I just rebuilt the head on my 87 fj60 and I was really not bad, if fact it was pretty easy. You have to remove the rocker shaft and arms before you can get to a couple of the head bolts. Definitly get a good manual like the FSM and loosen the bolts gradually using the pattern given for tightening, this will prevent possible warpage, Ditto the head bolts. Keep the pushrods in order either with tape lables or push them through the bottom of a upside down cardboard box and lable. Also use the drain plug on the side of the block (below the exhaust near firewall) to fully drain coolant from the head/block and prevent the mess(don't ask how I know :doh: ) a chain bolted to opposite sides/ends of the head will make lifting it easy. My buddy and I lifted it off with a pipe through the chain ala-egypt 500BC but a hydrolic hoist would be easier. Good luck.

    Cheers,
    Michael
     
  3. gillti

    gillti

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    I've got a buddy with a cherry picker, might go that direction. I don't think I have the money for the fsm right now, it all needs to go to the actual truck, could anyone either give me a scan of the description or transcribe it for me? I know that's a PITA but it would be very appreciated. Unless anyone in SoCal close to redlands has one I could check out for a few days? Good idea with the cardboard box, took me a couple of reads to make sense, but seems like a great idea. Any trick to the rocker shaft and arms?
    tjg
     
  4. snorider

    snorider

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    The rockers, shaft and towers all come off as one piece. Keep em clean and no problems. They can be a bit of a trick to re-install just take it slow and check the fsm for pics. If you go to the birfield.com site there are downloads of the 2F FSM engine manual just find the pages and print em. :cheers:
     
  5. overhanger

    overhanger

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    As snorider said, get an FSM from Toyota directly at their publications 800 # or watch ebay for one. Invaluable, entertaining, educational purchase that rewards you the first time you use it.
     
  6. RoddQLD

    RoddQLD

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    Very important to refer to the manuals at least so that you can torque all of the nuts and bolts to the correct spec!!!!
    Very important to torque the head bolts down in the right order and to the right specs. In many cars the torque is done in two stages!! You really do need the manuals.
     
  7. CruisinTiger

    CruisinTiger

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    We pulled my buddy's 55 head to replace the head gasket cause it was blown too. When pullin out the rods mark them like said above. Then unbolt the rocker arms and remove them, then loosen the head bolts and remove them. Once done lift the head and the take off the old gasket (of course you gotta drain everything) Then put on the new head gasket. Then put the bolts in( I have heard you have to replace these with new ones...because you torque them and stretch them out, if you use them again they may break off in the head) Then the haynes manual(yes they suck) but they will tell you how much and what order to torque the bolts down in. Then put the rods back in, slide the rocker arms back on and put the nuts on. Then the valve cover and you should be good to go...Check all the torque specs. Then go back and check eveything again before you put the valve cover on. You shouldn't have to but you may want to adjust your valves since they may be slightly off. Then go back and tighten everything else....good luck..if ya need anymore help just ask.
     
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