TC slipping out of gear (1 Viewer)

[landtoy80]

On mine, it would only pop out of 4x into 2x when going up a steep hill.
There my be other problems that I didn't look for like worn motor or tranny mounts but as I sold the 60 I will never no.
But after altering the guide it didn't pop out again.

I still think it would be cool to make a custom guide so that you could shift into 2 low (even with the hubs locked) and still be in 2wd.

 

[loeky]

guys - this is awesome. i really appreciate the advice here and will start with removing the inner boot and also replace the springs for good measure. is there any real problem with removing the inner boot, such as dirt or crud working it's way inside?

the diagrams and details are /really/ helpful to me and thank you for taking the time to help us out with the specific info.

my problem seems so subtle that i can't believe it would be anymore involved that what you guys have covered. no grinding or anything, just slips out of gear quietly from 4WH to 2WH.

... sounds like a project for this weekend. just wish i had a damn garage to work in. if anyone is feeling hospitable in the bay area, let me know :]

matt

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Matt, Its like a five minute job to do. Not even a half a banana job.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

I have also been running a transfer case with it able to go in 2wd low for about 10 years now with no ill effects.

 

[Mars]

Beautiful, thanks for the correction on the diagrams! If all goes well, I'll take care of it this weekend and get some pics up of the process.

Thanks again!

 

[loeky]

my Gerber did the job - no more slipping

today i had a chance to take the shifter boot off and see what was going on. the inner boot was pretty hard and seemed to keep it's shape a little /too/ well and was bumping the shifter from 4WH to 2WH.

a little intervention with my pocket knife and all is well again. i decided to just chop most of the inner part of the inner boot out, but leaving a lot of the outter piece to protect against crap coming up from underneath.

this little operation cost me nothing and i now have 4WH back. thanks a bunch to you guys and your insight - i like it when fixes are free and easy and am relishing them while i can.

i would definitely recommend anyone else having this problem to start with the inner shifter boot.

 

[Mars]

Success as well, different solution. I pulled the bolt/spring/bearing from the t/c, and what do you know. The little spring in there was so compressed, I'm sure it wasn't putting hardly any pressure on the shaft. I didn't have a new spring, and I wasn't expecting to get anywhere with it, so I shimmed out my old spring with 3 small washers. WaLaa...put tons of pressure on the bearing and on the shaft, no longer slips out of gear at all! I'm stoked, talk about an easy fix. I'll get a new spring in there and do it right eventually, gotta love it. It shifts smoothly through 4H/4L, but getting from 4H back into 2H takes some serious pressure. Thanks again yall.

Marsh

 

[Tinker]

So those 2 plugs are for both shafts? My '84 won't go into 4L without wrenching on the vertical shaft with Chan-L-Locks. After doing that I got it to go into 4L once with the lever but now it only grinds when I try. But the lever moves sideways in the 2WD position (don't think it did before & my '83 doesn't, but hte '83 works correctly).

 

[Mars]

I only removed the plug bolt furthest forward. The one on the right in the pic.

 

[Tinker]

RoddQ -
Where'd you find the linkage diagram? Seems to be absent from my FSM.

Finally reading the Downey "Installation Instructions 700R4 & 4L60E to 1981+ Transfer-Case Adapter, #38903", it is obvious that the SBC conversion deleted the "guide" (pn 36323) & the "shaft" now bolts into a steel boss welded to a 1/4" steel plate that's bolted to the front vertical edge of the adapter.

The high/low linkage rod was hitting the case, making it almost impossible to engage low using the lever, because the entire assembly was moved about 2" rearward. So I notched the holes in the steel plate to move it forward & filed the case. Doesn't work perfectly, but now I can engage low without crawling under the truck. Think it would clear perfectly if I drilled new holes in the plate to move it forward about 3/4", but that's for another day.

There's a lot to be said about having someone else do your labor-intensive conversion, but it depends on the person doing it. The reputation of the shop won't think about the consequences of making stuff so it barely works. You need a detail-oriented mechanic. Unfortunately, the guy who did mine, who drove a 40 & said he had Toyota tattooed on his butt, was a slam-bam kinda guy who got fired for what he did (& didn't do) on my truck. And he stole my throttle pedal boot.

So I'm gonna take it back to the shop, who's been very responsible, & show them yet more crap they sold me.

 

[Rob Faucett]

RoddQs pix are gone. Can you guys explain to me where these bolts are? I don't see anything in my FSM either. Nutty weather here and I'm getting a sore back from driving around holding her 4H.

Thanks
Rob

 

[lehiguy]

I've been down this road too. My T-case shifter was hitting the tunnel cover which, of course, is exacerbated when pointed up a steep hill. It sounds like death when it starts to grind and pop out, but it was simply the lever being pushed out of the "engaged" position. I retained the bracket to really hold it in tight and clearanced the tunnel cover, problem solved.

 

[landtoy80]

I think the whole problem is the bracket was cut either wrong or mounted wrong. So that as the vehicle gets old, the flex in the cab and drive line get out if alignment of the bracket thus causing the popping out of 4L.

Wish I had the vehicle or bracket as I could make some $$$ selling the improved brackets

 

[peterbozeman]

I did the three washer trick and it has worked well so far. I was pleased at how much more positive the engagement felt right away.
I did not cut the lower boot (yet). I like to do one fix at a time and see if it works.

Right now, the "natural" position of my lower boot is in the 2H spot. In order to change that, I will be doing my daily driving in 2H (as before) but, when I park it I now put the TC into 4L and leave it there overnight. I am hoping that spending more time in that position will stretch out the lower boot and it will have less pull back to the 2H spot.

 

[Umanad]

The year is 2024 and this thread is still very helpful for a new fj60 owner

 

[CruiserTrash]

The year is 2024 and this thread is still very helpful for a new fj60 owner

Amazing all the accumulated knowledge from long ago. Those dinosaurs were pretty smart.

For what it's worth, yes motor & transmission mounts play a large role in this. Also the two detent springs are important - part number 90501-16115 and still available. Easy to change out. Here's a link to a thread about a TSB Toyota published relating to this, it was a know issue to them. I just swapped those springs in while rebuilding my transfer case and it's rock solid in all the gears, including two low (I cut the tab off the bracket).