Talk me into or out of an m8274 winch (1 Viewer)

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We have 12k warn winches on our f550 fords that weigh 18k, we constantly snap 3/8 steel winch lines. But that's what the power company transportation department specs for the vehicle. I just stand at the end of the controller cord in the clear.
 
Seems like an awkward winch to work on, I came up with this wood brace to it still while I work on it.
20170906_192509.jpg
 
damn it all, here we go again with the winch debate. Can we all just get along and enjoy the winch porn? :deadhorse:

Admittedly, I have dirty thoughts of finding a 8274 on the local CL and then figuring out ways to stuff it in the ARB.
 
I'm sort of jealous of this m8274, but I'm also stoked with my m8000 considering it was $500 and took me ~20 minutes to install on my slee.
 
Another thing to think of when doing those 'which winch is good enough' - is looking at the rating by what wrap on the drum you're in.

Part of why I always do a simple compound pull is all I add is a pulley, but I get twice the rope off the drum.

Since winches are about getting going over 'how fast am I going', me cutting my linespeed in 1/2 is a thought I never bother with.

I suppose I'm using 1/2 the amps, but I'm on the amps for 2x longer - I'm not a battery guy but to me either what I'm doing is a wash, or slightly easier on my single battery/hand throttle setup. IDK, have zero facts to back that.

Frankly linespeed is a factor only if you're a Pro3/4 or KOH guy, and even then those guys you see leave 15-20' of line wrapped on the bumper to save time -- to me for our crowd linespeed is a non-factor.


A pretty decent thread on winch efficiency:

Winch efficiency: line speed, amperage, and heat factor - Expedition Portal

A bit long (about 12 pages), but ample mention of the 8274. Worth the read IMO.

I like the 8274 for many reasons, 'line speed' being one of them (especially in the pull range most required, by most folks).

Like you, I am not interested in 'how fast' the recovery occurs, since I am never in a competition, BUT line speed (especially single line) along with amp draw DOES effect power consumption and determines how hot (read duty cycle) the winch motor is going to get. Obviously, there are times when doubling the line makes sense. In other situations it would an unnecessary waste of time and effort.

An in-depth study of published specifications for a particular winch will reveal its 'sweet spot', strengths and weaknesses. So...it behooves us to do a little research and consider our personal needs when selecting a winch. The 8274 is perfect for me and has long and proven history of good performance. But it is not the ideal winch for every person under every circumstance.

But I can say this with absolute certainty: IF the OP is not satisfied with the 8274 he purchased...he will have NO problem selling it to recoup his money.

Such is the popularity and demand for the 8274.
 
Seems like an awkward winch to work on, I came up with this wood brace to it still while I work on it.

^^^^^^^ should be helpful for disassembly. Aside from just dressing it up (aesthetically) what do you plan to do with it?

It probably doesn't need much. New gear oil and seals most likely. The 8274 is not hard to work on but there are several 'modifications' you may wish to make.

Jump in and get started:

My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1.....
 
damn it all, here we go again with the winch debate. Can we all just get along and enjoy the winch porn? :deadhorse:

Admittedly, I have dirty thoughts of finding a 8274 on the local CL and then figuring out ways to stuff it in the ARB.
Does this make you horny baby?
 
Well crap, I found a 8274 winch for $400. Can someone decipher this for me pls? Onwer is an old Jeep guy who is cleaning out the shop of old CJ5 parts and thinks he's had this winch for 15 years (+ or -)

s/n 222920
p/n 8631
date code: JG2
 
JG2=


J is the the 10 letter in alphabet. SO MADE IN THE MONTH OF OCT.
G is the 2nd work day of the week. SO MADE ON A TUESDAY.
2 means it was made in a year ending in a 2. Or 1982, 92, 02, or 2012.

At least that's how I read the Warn 'code' I looked up.
 
JG2=


J is the the 10 letter in alphabet. SO MADE IN THE MONTH OF OCT.
G is the 2nd work day of the week. SO MADE ON A TUESDAY.
2 means it was made in a year ending in a 2. Or 1982, 92, 02, or 2012.

At least that's how I read the Warn 'code' I looked up.

Yeah, that's what I gathered too and am hoping that the s/n might produce a more accurate DOB. Not that it really matters, any of these babies are rebuildable.
 
Yeah, that's what I gathered too and am hoping that the s/n might produce a more accurate DOB. Not that it really matters, any of these babies are rebuildable.
You can email Warn and they'll give you the info. I found their customer service to be exceptional when I was doing my rebuild.
 
Probably new seals and orings, maybe a drain and fill plug. I have plenty of time, my 4x4 labs bumps is probably at least 6 weeks out.
 
All this 8274 talk! Let's see one mounted to an ARB dammit! :cool:
 
Just give me some time and I will have it on the ARB. I have no other choice now. Not looking to do a hack job so it may be a few weeks. Pretty stoked about though!

I don't think you'll need to hack up the ARB bumper too bad if at all. From what I recall, you need a 1/2" spacer to push the winch rearward from the bumper mounting surface. Only your grill will get a nip/tuck.
 
That good to know. I have a couple of extra grills too! Not sure if I want to cut into the grill or bumper at this point. Trial fitting this weekend hopefully.
 
Finished disassembling my 8274 today. I noticed the drum and brake seals were leaking and the external brake was missing a ballbearing, I thought it seamed a little wobbly. Also the oil was low, probably because of the leaking seal. I am send parts of to powder coating monday and I am ordering the brake service kit, lower drum seal kit and I bought a o ring variety pack from Napa. I want to put a drain and fill plug in but I am not sure were the best place would be to install a drain plug for access on a 4x4 labs bumper.
 
Also the oil was low, probably because of the leaking seal.

It probably has leaked some of the lubricant, but be advised...the unit is designed to use only 6 fl. ozs. of oil anyway. I used twice that amount when I did mine, which just brought the level up to the drum seal in the lower case.

I want to put a drain and fill plug in but I am not sure were the best place would be to install a drain plug for access on a 4x4 labs bumper.

The lower case on the winch pretty much dictates where you can install a drain plug. You have a little leeway in the positioning but I'd recommend not getting too close to the radius of the lower case and stay next to a reinforcing rib if possible.

^^^^^^^ expand for reply.
 

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