SOLD Syracuse, NY: 1998 LC100 273,648 miles (Updated Pics)

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Hello all, I am putting my 1998 Land Cruiser up for sale. I've returned to college and I need something a little more fuel efficient. Purchased this pig in September of 2016 bone stock. She's a little rough around the edges so I will do my utmost to point all deficiencies in this truck, but a solid dependable driver. Most of the convenience items work, heated seats, power seat, rear wing windows, sunroof, drivers window onetouch up/down. My fiancée and I have made a lot of memories in this hundy and I hope whoever it passes on to does the same.

Asking $7000
  • 1998 Land Cruiser
  • Atlantis Blue with Tan interior
  • 273,648 (my daily, mileage will increase)
  • I believe the last timing belt was done at 165k, the number sticks in my mind but I don't have access to the carfax anymore
  • Oil changes every 5k with Rotella T6 5w-40
    Aftermarket:
  • ARB Deluxe Bumper
  • Warn VR 10k winch
  • Baja Rack
  • Baja Rack Hi-Lift Mounts w/ Hi-Lift (have shovel mounts as well)
  • SPC adjustable upper control arms
  • OME lift with medium rear springs
  • Slee Diff Drop
  • General Grabber AT2 285/75R16 all corners and spare
  • Tough Dog adjustable panhard bar
  • Trail Tailor extended front and rear endlinks (fronts not installed yet)
  • Homemade two drawer platform in the rear
  • Ridgid Industries flush mount reverse lights
  • FCKlightbars front lightbar
  • Slee Group 31 battery kit
  • Group 31 Optima Yellowtop
  • Weathertech mats
  • Draw-tite hitch
  • Wellvisors front and rear window visors

    Repair Parts:
  • Rear gear, transfer case, front diff fluids changed 9/2016 (when I took ownership)
  • Starter done 10/2016 (Cleaned the intake manifold and installed new gaskets)
  • Steering flush, new rack and bushings at 5/2017
  • Air Filter 2/2018
  • Alternator 2/2018
  • Rear Upper and Lower control arms in 05/2018
  • Cat Back exhaust 6/2018
  • Drivers brake caliper 9/2018
  • Got into a fender (door) door bender last fall (2018). Was repaired with what I told was the last araco door in the states. Paint blending is excellent, can't tell it isn't original
  • Front driver axle 6/2019
  • Passenger side rear parking brake actuator replaced 5/2019
  • Left bank #2 O2 Sensor along with left and right sensor gaskets 6/2019

    The Bad:
  • Rust... The trucks been in the northeast its whole life, I will include pictures of all major rust points.
    -Whole under carriage has light surface rust, nothing structural to my knowlege.
    - Front Passenger fender is bubbling paint
    - Rear wheel well bubbling paint
    - Recently had the windshield replaced due to leakage, found a rust hole at the top of the A pillar. It was ground down , filled to prevent further leakage, and sealed well when new windshield was put in. Will attach picture of the rust hole pre-fix
  • Had the truck aligned when the SPC uppers were installed, alignment was good, but steering wheel is a off center. Hasn't affected drivability so I haven't bothered pulling it to center it.
  • Ac is out, I don't use it often so I haven't bothered to fix.
  • Headers leaking
  • Could use head gaskets
  • Has the factory rear locker, doesn't work though. Never got around to having a look at it

    I hope the bad stuff doesn't deter any buyers, this rig runs like a top and has many more years of fun left in her. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask in thread or PM
    -Nolan
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And the drivers A pillar, was ground down, filled and sealed to prevent further leakage

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Bump, what's scaring people off?
I'm only answering honestly so please don't take offense.
There is quite a bit of rust to contend with. Being in the heart of the rust belt, this scares a lot of people off.
While you have quite a few extras, you rarely get that money back when selling a vehicle.
The timing belt was done over 100K miles ago. That is a major issue for most people.
While these vehicles are known for their high mileage when maintained, you pictures have salt all over so it doesn't give the impression maintenance was a high priority.
Lastly...Labatt's instead of Molson in the back seat.

Again, I'm not trying to make you angry at all. I'm only answering a question you asked with what I observe from your ad.

Tripper
 
I'm only answering honestly so please don't take offense.
There is quite a bit of rust to contend with. Being in the heart of the rust belt, this scares a lot of people off.
While you have quite a few extras, you rarely get that money back when selling a vehicle.
The timing belt was done over 100K miles ago. That is a major issue for most people.
While these vehicles are known for their high mileage when maintained, you pictures have salt all over so it doesn't give the impression maintenance was a high priority.
Lastly...Labatt's instead of Molson in the back seat.

Again, I'm not trying to make you angry at all. I'm only answering a question you asked with what I observe from your ad.

Tripper

agreed, swinging for the fences. clean 100's with almost 300k are not fetching $7,000. i think you would make out better in the long run if you could sell the arb bumper and roofrack and then take what you can get on the truck, which would be about half of the asking price.
 
I appreciate the honesty, though it is a bit souring to see that one would think I dont care about my truck. I was hoping the repairs I have/had performed would speak to that. Once again the objectivity is appreciated, she will most likely go to part out.
 
I think that's a good choice and probably the best bet for getting the most from your truck. I dont think either of us were saying you were neglecting it, it's just getting to the point where the truck is needing more than you put into it. We can see the money you put into it, but as your ad says: radio doesn't work, a/c doesn't work, rear locker doesn't work, needs manifolds, may need head gaskets, due for tbelt etc. And that's on top the work you've already done and forgetting about the rusty areas. I think you'll do better off parting it out instead of selling it as a whole. it may take alittle more time to get the money, but you'll get much more.
One thing that is a positive is you are very straight forward and detailed with its condition and that goes a long way for selling it as is or for parts.
 
I appreciate the honesty, though it is a bit souring to see that one would think I dont care about my truck. I was hoping the repairs I have/had performed would speak to that. Once again the objectivity is appreciated, she will most likely go to part out.

I wouldn't part it. I'd remove everything from the interior/wipe it down, and then take it to a wash and thoroughly scrub it down, including undercarriage. Take some pictures there.

I'd sell the add-ons like the ARB and winch (those right there worth $1.5k), even better if you can get a buyer to include their stock bumper. You can drop your list price to $4500-5k and it should move.

You can always link to the Ih8mud high mileage thread for 100's as "social proof" of longevity to encourage someone who might think mileage is really high. Cars in the <5k range are generally seen more as consumables, in my mind, and so people will drive them until the wheels fall off and scrap them.

Just $.02 from a guy who's bought and sold 27 cars in 15 years.
 
x2 on pics of the frame after a wash. What is leading you to believe it needs HGs? That will kill your price quickly...
 
Bump; Updated with new pictures
and got the radio fixed

x2 on pics of the frame after a wash. What is leading you to believe it needs HGs? That will kill your price quickly...

Doesn't need them, just the tippical welling around the edges you find with older vehicles. Truck runs fine, just trying to be as transparent as possible
 
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