Synthetic Oil

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I've run Mobil I in my Dodge Ram 1500 since I bought it new in 1996. Typically 7 - 10K miles between oil changes. Have pulled trailer hauling antique D2 Caterpillar dozer (10K of trailer back there, way overloaded) to antique equipment shows. Truck has 170K miles. Original engine. Runs great. Just seeps a little oil out the back seal. The paint job is another story. Just replaced the timing chain and it was fairly clean in there. Also have been running Mobil I in my Xterra. Also 7 - 10K miles between changes. It has 130K miles on it. Just gave that to a nephew. It's running great. Doesn't use oil. I put Rotella-T in my antique diesel equipment, but they just get the oil changed either once a year or every other year. I think the key is to determine how hard you are using your machinery and do the required maintenance at correct intervals.
 
after doing all the thread reading months ago myself when it was time to change my oil after i replaced pan/gasket/filter, it doesnt "really" matter what oil, syn or conv, you put it because NONE of the oils on the shelf have enough ZDDP in them anymore. yes some are higher than others and should be favored, but the key to the debate is you have to use an additive with the F and 2F. plain and simple. if youre not using a ZDDP additive, you are putting additional, and avoidable, wear and tear on the moving parts.
 
X2 - kid!

Good statement: "doing the required maintenance at correct intervals." But that is only one part, "using the required/correct oil & filter at those intervals" is the other part. It is all part of achieving a means-to-an-end, with many-many different ways to get there. Hence my statement, "to each, their own".

Jim - any reason you run the Wix 51773 in lieu of the Wix 51459?
 
Ok, I'm no Doc, but.....1459 @ 7.01/3.694 and 1773 @ 6.982/3.663.......Yep, ladies love the 1459 about 0.028/0.031 more....:doh:
 
Here is a link to a thread I made in the 80's section, seems they (we) enjoys these sorts of things more then the 40's people's. Anyways, having disected both Wix and Totota D3 oil filters, the individual components of the Toyota filter are superior, in my opinion, to the WIX.
If your interested, I can update the tread with photos of the Wix filter.
But all in all, it's pretty nit picky what filter you use, at this point. I will say, the one filter I will not use are the cheap Fram filters.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/inside-the-infomous-d3-oil-filter-90915-yzzd3.800915/
 
AlaskanWheeler said:
Here is a link to a thread I made in the 80's section, seems they (we) enjoys these sorts of things more then the 40's people's. Anyways, having disected both Wix and Totota D3 oil filters, the individual components of the Toyota filter are superior, in my opinion, to the WIX.
If your interested, I can update the tread with photos of the Wix filter.
But all in all, it's pretty nit picky what filter you use, at this point. I will say, the one filter I will not use are the cheap Fram filters.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/inside-the-infomous-d3-oil-filter-90915-yzzd3.800915/
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info on the Toyota D3 filters. Does any one on here (or there) use the Baldwin B7311-MPG oil filter? It is actually designed for the HVAC industry, but it is used in the automotive industry as well. Based on flow rates and particulate filter, I believe it is unmatched in the 7" (2 qt.) oil filter category. However, it isn't sold at the local auto parts stores....Note: I've never used a Baldwin filter, nor have I ever seen one on a vehicle.
 
Everyone has their favorite oils and filters, I think the biggest and most critical factor (besides the lack of ZDDP additives in todays oils) is to keep your oil and filter changed on a regular basis. I have had my '40 for 16 years, it had 75k miles on it when I got it, I changed to Mobile 1 from the start, but still changed oil at the 3k to 4k mile limit. This was my DD for the first 4 years, and at 56 miles per day round trip to work, I racked up the miles quickly (plus 'playing' off road on the w/es)...oil changes were killing me. At that time, Mobile 1 never recommended extended length oil changes, so I changed to Amsoil. I started running 9k to 10k miles between changes. I stopped driving the gas guzzler every day in 2001, some years since then I don't even put 200 miles on it, some years 3 to 4k, but I still stick with the extended oil changes. I have always used Toyota oil filters. I have 115k mile on it today, and other than blowing a head gasket last summer (certainly no fault of the oil), I have had no issue with leaking or smoking. I like the synthetics because they don't 'gell' in the Winter, and they hold up to the heat of Summer. I'm sold on Amsoil, but that's just a personal choice. People have run engines on mineral based oils for decades with great success, just keeping it fresh would be the ticket.
 
Not to hijack....

But, concerning the ZDDP issue.
I had my 'Cruisers 2F motor rebuilt back in 2000 and didn't know about the ZDDP thing until recently (the last oil change, in fact) so I was running Valvoline 10w30 pretty much the whole time without putting the ZDDP in... Should I bother pulling the side cover and lifters to check wear?
 
GA Architect said:
Jim - any reason you run the Wix 51773 in lieu of the Wix 51459?
Click to expand...
No. I hadn't investigated the 51549. The 51773 was chosen because it is the spec-ed filter for OTR truck gas engines. The assumption was it would be a good match for the Cruiser's OTR gas engine.
 
Interesting thread, but I am none the wiser. I have a fully rebuilt 12HT turbo diesel, top to bottom, has not been started yet. Engine will only be run on weekends, no trails, no high speed highway runs, just cruising around on the beach slow at high tide and 80-90kph at low tide, sometimes pulling a heavy jet-ski, sub tropical climate so I would assume a 20w/50w oil, choices would be Castrol, Shell, Penrite, Mobil and in store brands like Gulf Western.

So Mineral or Syn? and what additives to look for in the oil to be used?
 
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