Switching HIGH mileage FZJ80 to Synthetic?

[sonoranfun]

Okay, I switched my 96 with 106k to Rotella and and giving some thought to switching in my 95 with 198,000..... I know that's high and it weeps about 1gt every 5k now... Just wondering if there's any major reason I shouldn't switch with such high mileage? I don't care about the cost difference as I only put on like 8,000 a year do like 2 changes a year so the cost is low for me.

As a side note if you know, I'm gonna do a radiator flush, was wondering since I'm doing it if I should just put cheap fluid in or what I should use?

 

[DuManchu]

From what I understand switching a high mileage engine to syn will cause some amount of oil usage. I don't know any other specifics beyond that, I just know what I was told, I know I'll be using dino for a while unless I find out syn is "better".

 

[C6H12O6]

I was burning about .5 qt per 1000 miles on dino at 175K miles. I switched to M1 0W40 on the last oil change and it seems to have lost none in 2K miles. I would normally be about a qt. low by now. Runs great and doesn't leak a bit. Go for it. The M1 is good stuff and you could probably cut your change interval to once a year if you put that few miles on it.

 

[OLDGOAT]

When I switched my Scout over from SAE 30 to Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic I found all of my oil leaks (valve cover, pan and rear main). I was a little bummed at first, but now that they're fixed, I really enjoy the smoother performance and less vibration I get from the synthetic oil.

I would bet that the Toyota motors, even with 200k, are a bit "tighter" than those old International blocks, but it's something else to think about.

 

[RavenTai]

If you have leaks they may get worse with synthetic, they may not, I am of the mind that synthetic does not create these leaks, but instead finds leaks that mineral oil cannot but, probably due to both a lower viscosity and better cleaning ability.

Rotella is a group III oil, not a true synthetic but still a good oil, and certainly does no break the bank, many report a reduction of consumption with Rotella,

other than possible consumption and cost no reason not to.

 

[Beowulf]

I'm gonna do a radiator flush, was wondering since I'm doing it if I should just put cheap fluid in or what I should use?

Toyota recommends a premium coolant. Most recommend Prestone or Toyo Red. Do not use the "lifetime" Dexcool products.

-B-

 

[Ted44]

Switched my 95 to M1 5w-30 at 160K. Leaks/seapage not an issue so far; increase in leakage attributed to syn is simple, it flows better. Engine runs smoother, but I also did a 3 tank Redline SL-1 treatment in the same timeframe. I plan on a Blackstone UOA at 5K change with the hope to increase OCI to 10K or so. All lubes will be syn by the end of this year.

Absolutely no question in my mind that a group IV/V synthetic of the proper viscosity is the best oil you can use. To me, building up from PAO/ester base seems better than cracking down from dino. It is more expensive per qt, but it allows for longer OCIs and flows really well so cold starts are easier on the engine and wear is probably less. New engines are expensive, too.

 

[fzj80kidpen]

If you do switch to syn then plan on doing a short first oil change interval.
The syn with clean away much of the dino varnish and will turn black quickly.
I did it to mine at 145K and found my front leaking (1 ct per 1500 miles) so I went back to dino.

 

[Boston Mangler]

I swapped my 93 wth 125k to M1 and have had zero problems with useage or leakage.

I recommend it!

 

[drsales]

My 95 with 182K is on M1. I feel I am consuming about 1.5 -2 qts in 4k miles. But noticed also that it was quite dirty. I think that has to do with the cleaning action of the synthetic. No seal leakage detected. Just did the second oil change and will wait and see if usage changes. I have noticrd less valve/lifter noise in start up and driving. I use this truck daily driving stop and go and highway, about 400 miles/wk.

 

[NorCalSam]

OK I have noticed that some of you guys are running very different weight oils.
My book says 10-30. I have been running 10-30synblend tried 10-40 one time but I didn't like what the gauge was telling me so I went back. If I went to a full synthetic what should I run?
Sam

 

[NorCalSam]

0-40 5-30 why?

 

[RavenTai]

That section of "the book" was written by the EPA not Toyota.

 

[Ted44]

I chose 5W-30 M1 because it was available and the price was good and it is what the FSM and Haynes Manuals said was best. I think I would prefer 0W-40 but I haven't found it around here yet.

 

[Gutterpig]

Just did an Oil Change on on my 98 tdi Jetta. Used syn Rotella 5W-30. The car has 190K so wondering if it will leak or not. My 94 has 213K and was considering using syn. It leaks now, so I was assuming it would more. Anyone here have any high mileage cruisers and done the switch ? What the hell does the popcorn mean?

 

[drsales]

Did mine at 178K, and at 182 did the second M1 5w-30. I did consume about 1qt per 1k mi. We will see on the second go around. No seal leakage.

 

[nakman]

135K and M1 0w40. I don't drip, or burn any... but I don't rev that hard and think that has something to do with it. I switched our 4Runner with 170K to M1 synth 3 months ago, (those 5VZ's like 5w30, IMO). also no leaks!

Popcorn impies sit back & watch the action.. so you post up a particular juicy or controversial post and expect a flurry of opinion to ensue, so you kick back with some popcorn & watch.

Synthetic oil tends to be a good topic for that, also tires, politics, and K&N Air filters.. but I won't voice an opinion about any of those! (today)

 

[lahar50]

I switch my jeep to mobil 1 at 147,000 it has done great.but the leaking will get worse if you dont fix them.

 

[drsales]

Funny, now at 194k miles and on the last change there was no oil consumption. It seems to be improving with every change. M1 5-30. M1 in diffs. Standard Dino in tranny. But soon to change.