Did i miss a list of all the fancy triggers you guys have?
1) additional rear lights on with reverse lights
2) rock lights on with courtesy lights
3) certain lights on with high beams
4)
5)
Switch Panel / Switchpros Install Underhood Tap Points (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Did i miss a list of all the fancy triggers you guys have?
1) additional rear lights on with reverse lights
2) rock lights on with courtesy lights
3) certain lights on with high beams
4)
5)
- Thread starter
- #42
SQOTD: this the chassis ground from the battery to the frame. I understand that the engine block has ground straps as well, but I was surprised to see that it’s painted under the lug. Does the 10mm bolt grab a captive nut that is grounded better?
Last edited:
Where does #1 (IGN 12V) go? Is that just use anything within that section of the fuse block (unit "E")? I tried a couple of those but I'm not getting power when I turn the truck on. However I always get 12V in the blocks above it.
- Thread starter
- #45
Looks like I didn't document that detail. I specifically used the 10amp IGN fuse position for my add a fuse Switchpros IGN reference. Though any fuse that's powered on by IGN could also work. Actually, may be better to use another ancillary as you never want the real IGN to stop working or come undone?
Here's the block E diagram. (BTW - thanks a ton for providing the online reference, it's been a gold mine for this forum)
Thanks. I ended up using IGN as well. I tried several other of these fuses but none of them seemed to give me power, running or off. No clue why.
Since Switch-Pros installation instructions indicate that the use of a terminal block is not recommended, how are you tying off / isolating any unused hot / switch load wires?
Mine unused wires are rolled up under my slee compressor bracket (unused ends have a little piece of electrical tape sealing them off.
- Thread starter
- #49
I like to double over the end of the wire and use heat shrink to seal it off. Roll up rest of the wire and secure somewhere with a zip-tie.
Julian73
SILVER Star
While they say not to use terminal block, TB's do have conveniences if protected from splash & weather. I mounted one to the inside cover of the electrical connector box located between AirBox and firewall. Only the circuits running aft to the cabin and roof link from this TB. Other portions of harness running fwd to grill lights, the triggers and IGN run separately to Weather-Pack connectors when extended in length. The added advantage for me is that I mounted the SP9100 to the firewall, just behind this electrical box.
Last edited:
I have a 2021 HE. The shop that installed my SwitchPros said that in order to use the rock lights as courtesy lights that I will have to A. use a timer (e.g. 30 seconds) and that they will not be dimmable. I will give up on the dimming, unless someone knows a solution. However, I have seen solutions where @Eric Sarjeant and team use a digital relay to do everything I think that I want (tapping the courtesy light on the door sill). Any insight on what to use as a trigger for on/off and what type of relay to use? I noticed that my fusebox looks much different than the OP's unfortunately. I figure this will help others as well. Thanks!
teejnut
SILVER Star
Where did you get this electrical box? Got a link?
Julian73
SILVER Star
That box is stock on the latest version of the LC200, mine is a 2020. I did purchase a spare lid so that I can put back to stock if required. Lid is Toyota P/N 82662-60600
Last edited:
Julian73
SILVER Star
Tap points for triggers IGN (seated in an open live socket for no failure risk), T1- Head Light Hi Beam and T2 - Dimmer (to Headlight Lo Beam); additional trigger for Rigid reverse lights installed in bumper skin w/ dash switch to override operation, and trigger for Rr Fog light to only run in tandem with front Fogs, but switchable on/off with Switch Pros. I ran wires around back of firewall, along inner fender, under fuse box and up through wire inlet tube. I also ran 3 additional control wires (inside black braid) as future what if's.
My only low power/trigger tap outside of this main box is an accessory power tap or my "aux fuel transfer pump switch power" where I pulled from the LH under dash fuse box, ACC spot (SFT LOCK-ACC).
My only low power/trigger tap outside of this main box is an accessory power tap or my "aux fuel transfer pump switch power" where I pulled from the LH under dash fuse box, ACC spot (SFT LOCK-ACC).
Last edited:
This could be an option to keen engine bay tidier
greynolds
SILVER Star
How accessible is that location if a fuse blows when you're not close to home / tools? I'm thinking one of those nylon trim tools would be needed at a minimum to pop a panel off without scratching anything. Also, what's stock vs what's modified in that photo? Is the cutout stock and the fuse panel and screws at the top and bottom of it added?
Cover pops off with no tools at all. Just fingers. Its actually easier than the underbonnet or glovebox fuses to access
greynolds
SILVER Star
I took a really quick look at the driver side panel on mine the other day and it wasn't immediately obvious how to remove it without tools, so I'm curious to hear more details too.
Is there an ACC source in the engine bay fuse box?
