Swapping a OBD2 motor into OBD1 80 (1 Viewer)

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Mar 5, 2023
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Sacramento, California
Hello all,

I am swapping a OBD2 (95-97) 1FZ-FE motor into my 1993 80. I have had some people raise some concern about the compatibility with the swap, and wanted to reach out to some with possibly more knowledge on what my plan is and if it will work.

If I were to swap everything including the wiring harness, then yes, I would need a new ECU in order for the truck to run.

My general idea is this:

Swap the motor, but retain my OBD1 harness and use whatever OBD1 sensors are needed and go from there. Use the OBD1 MAF, Injectors, etc.

What I am curious to know is the logistics of this swap, furthermore the details of what exactly I would have to swap on the motors, as well as what I would have to be weary of when it comes to plugging everything back in. If someone could give me some more information on this so that way I make sure I do this right the first time it would be much appreciated.

On a side note, the original idea was to swap both the motor and transmission, but since the OBD2 transmission is more computer operated, I will probably retain my original.

Any information helps! Thanks!


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Sounds like you are on the right track. The engine internally is no different, as long as you swap over the OBD2 sensors/wire harness you should be good to go. But you are already doing that.

Honestly, make it easy on yourself. Just buy all new OBD sensors, less down time between pulling and installing the new motor.

Injector clips to and checking the harness for burnt wires near the EGR and then re-wrap it with heat resistant tape.
 
You do NOT need to swap the harness. What you need to do is just use the 93 engines intake and exhaust manifold, along with the air intake vaf system. You could swap the lower pan if having an extra sensor there bothers you. Just leave it un plugged. Take the different style return line to the thermos ant and you can also lose the air pulse system if you like
 
You do NOT need to swap the harness. What you need to do is just use the 93 engines intake and exhaust manifold, along with the air intake vaf system. You could swap the lower pan if having an extra sensor there bothers you. Just leave it un plugged. Take the different style return line to the thermos ant and you can also lose the air pulse system if you like
Awesome ok. I was also told the transmissions are different in the way that they are ran? The OBD1 style is more mechanical than computer operated so I’m assuming just throw my old transmission onto the new motor or does it not matter?
 
Given the difficulty of finding NLA things like obd1 wire harnesses, VAF, ECU, etc., is there any good logic to upgrading to the electronics of the newer obd2 wire harness, MAF, ECU setup?
 
Given the difficulty of finding NLA things like obd1 wire harnesses, VAF, ECU, etc., is there any good logic to upgrading to the electronics of the newer obd2 wire harness, MAF, ECU setup?
I’m not switching to OBD2. I want to retain OBD1 sensors, harnesses and everything.
 
I’m not switching to OBD2. I want to retain OBD1 sensors, harnesses and everything.
Gotcha.

It was more of a general question, rather than suggesting you should do it. I have a 1994 obd1 80, and it is only getting harder and more expensive to find certain parts that were unique to these few years. Like many, I've taken to hoarding hard to find spares, but it'd be nice if spares were more readily available and less costly. It'd also be nice to have the additional diagnostic information that comes with obd2.
 
Ok man, I answered this in somewhat exhausting detail on this thread. Start with post #9.

Basically, there is nothing to it. You dont want to try to use the new trans with the old truck. That wont work in anyway that is reasonable. Stick with the A442 (the OBDI trans). What you will swap is the block, and head. You will reuse the 94 back distributor, intake, exhausts and emissions equipment if retaining. You can use the new oil pan if you want, but it would be cleaner to use the one off your OBD I engine. The OBD II uses a Crank Position sensor, OBD I does not. When you have the engine out, it just makes sense to pull the oil pan off and reseal it, so swap the 94 back on at that time.
I would buy the engine gasket kit I reference in that thread below, even if (for some crazy reason) you dont take the time to replace the head gasket, the rest of the gaskets and seals are cheaper to source that way, and you might as well do them while the engine is out.

PN 04112-66036 you can get it from Partsouq for less than the cost of the intake and exhaust gaskets combined.

Good luck.



Dude. As previously stated - Mechanically, IT IS ALL THE SAME.

It will line up fine with the transmission. You don't need the "head from the 94" or anything else like that. The 1994 head is the same part number as the 1997 head. You are good to go as long as you have all your original electrical parts (wiring harness), PAIR, and EGR (assuming you are using it) from the 94.

The 95 and newer are OBDII engines, so they have different sensors, and a Mass Air Flow Meter, which the 94 does not have. The 94 draws its ignition signal from the Cam, whereas the 95 and newer draw it from a crank position sensor. Also, not an issue, since you aren't going to use the wiring harness from the 97. You don't even have to worry about splicing wires or plugging holes.

JUST BE SUPER CAREFUL WITH YOUR AIRFLOW METER.

They are gone, don't exist, and are super expensive to buy used if you can find one. They were 93-94 Landcruiser only, and if you look at the production numbers for those years with 1FZ, you can see why there are so few.

Seriously, though, otherwise it's cake.

I have a 94, with a 97-long block in it. I know of what I speak, though not even on the same planet as almost everyone who replied above.

One note: In my haste to be sarcastic, I didn't point out that the upper oil pans are slightly different physically. You can run it just like it is. Just zip-tie the pigtail for the sensor out of the way. However, you could also swap your 94 upper oil pan onto it while the engine is on the stand since you're going to replace the upper arch seal anyway right? The newer oil pan is NLA, so you can probably find a buyer for yours to recoup some of your cost. @OGBeno may know if the 94 is also NLA, I do not.
 
Ok man, I answered this in somewhat exhausting detail on this thread. Start with post #9.

Basically, there is nothing to it. You dont want to try to use the new trans with the old truck. That wont work in anyway that is reasonable. Stick with the A442 (the OBDI trans). What you will swap is the block, and head. You will reuse the 94 back distributor, intake, exhausts and emissions equipment if retaining. You can use the new oil pan if you want, but it would be cleaner to use the one off your OBD I engine. The OBD II uses a Crank Position sensor, OBD I does not. When you have the engine out, it just makes sense to pull the oil pan off and reseal it, so swap the 94 back on at that time.
I would buy the engine gasket kit I reference in that thread below, even if (for some crazy reason) you dont take the time to replace the head gasket, the rest of the gaskets and seals are cheaper to source that way, and you might as well do them while the engine is out.

PN 04112-66036 you can get it from Partsouq for less than the cost of the intake and exhaust gaskets combined.

Good luck.
Huge thanks for this man! We figured most of it out. Got the 442 on the new motor and have been swapping parts. I dont really mind the CPS being there and my oil pan is dented pretty bad on the old motor. Swapped intakes with new gaskets as well as exhaust. Head gasket doesnt need to be done as it was done at the beginning of the year on this motor as well as new timing chain guides, and a new timing chain!

Motor and transmission are now in, just need to hook everything back up and start it up!!
 

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