Suspension + Tires: Trying to find a good upgrade cut-off point

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You can find them via Google Search. "50 mm spacer 80 series" Here's one place that has them:

4WD1.com - 80 Series LandCruiser Spacers & Springs

I had already tried that and found that they were all in Australia or New Zealand. I was kind of hoping for some already stateside.:D
The MAF 30mm ones are the only thing I have found in numerous searches. If anyone knows of something else, please chime in.
 
Just order Slee's 30mm coil spacers! $58 to my door. I'll report after I get them on. Still trying to talk the :princess: into letting me take the running boards off... than it'll look real nice!

I thought about doing 865's - but it'll be stiffer, more expensive, and 1 1/4" is all I need. If I had gone with 295's, I would probably go with springs, but for my needs right now, the spacer should work perfect. So $58 + alignment after torsion cranking = ~$140 which is less than just the springs.
 
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How long will those spacers last before they need to be replaced? Does anyone make them in metal?
 
How long will those spacers last before they need to be replaced? Does anyone make them in metal?

metal tech makes some. they cost just as much as OME springs tho. on a 100 they are pretty useless. Much better for an 80 with a 3" lift trying to get to 4+"
 
I just got the Slee spacers in last night. They are black and look exactly like the ones pictured on MAF except in a Slee package. I will post pics when I get them installed. I'm a little nervous I might have to re-index my Tbars
 
I'm a little nervous I might have to re-index my Tbars

No biggie if you need to unless there's a lot of corrosion around where the splines enter the mounts. When I did the t-bars it took maybe 90 minutes for the first side and 45 for the second. I did have to use a little heat to get the front bolts to release.
 
ok thanks for the encouragement :cheers:

man, I wish it didn't get dark so dang early otherwise I might get started tonight...
 
ok thanks for the encouragement :cheers:

man, I wish it didn't get dark so dang early otherwise I might get started tonight...

The sequence I used was (roughly) as follows (for simply re-indexing, just go down to point 5 where you can slide the mount back on the tbar and index it a couple of splines over. Make sure to mark the bar and mount so you can verify how far you've indexed it).

1) Jack the vehicle safely (jack stands, chocks, etc).
2) Remove all tension from the t-bars to the point that you remove the bolt. I used a 30mm impact-rated socket with a breaker bar. Don't use an impact too on spring steel. I purposefully didn't use a ratchet so I could count complete turns when re-torquing.
3) Undue the two front mount bolts to release the front mount. The shorter bolt is trapped so the t-bar won't drop straight down, but you will have a little wiggle room.
4) At this point I used a hammer to tap the mount forward while holding the t-bar toward the rear. It is loose in the rear at this point so you have about an 1" of play in the cage.
5) Once you get the front mount moving, spray some lube on it and work it back toward the rear to the point where it can make it down past the bolt.
6) Allow the assembly to drop down and toward the center below the exhaust. I removed the front mount to reduce weight.
7) Maneuver into a position where you have leverage and start working the t-bar forward and out of the rear mount. This is probably the hardest part.
8) Assembly is the reverse. After getting the first one in, install the tension bolt just to the point where you have no slack, then index side two to match. The driver's side is heavier so if anything have that side down a spline or two.

Rinse, wash, repeat for the other side.

Feel free to post or PM with Q's.
 
Thanks for the how to Oregon, very helpful. I have about 10 threads on each side, for only 1-1.25" lift, I shouldn't need to re-index right?

Here are some pics pre and post spacer.

pre
LCnospacer.jpg


post
LCwithspacer.jpg


Now I just need to get the running boards off... :princess: keeps telling me not to tho...
 
Thanks for the how to Oregon, very helpful. I have about 10 threads on each side, for only 1-1.25" lift, I shouldn't need to re-index right?

Here are some pics pre and post spacer.

pre


post


Now I just need to get the running boards off... :princess: keeps telling me not to tho...

did you work on your hundy in a rooftop parking lot?lol
 
Thanks for the how to Oregon, very helpful. I have about 10 threads on each side, for only 1-1.25" lift, I shouldn't need to re-index right?

Here are some pics pre and post spacer.

You should be OK with 10 threads. The DS on LC's is the heavy side so if that side makes it you should be fine. IIRC it's around 5 turns per inch so you should be in the ballpark. A little rake may be desirable so that when you have a load you don't look like a drug runner.
 
I think your choice is EASY for now (unless you have extra cash). Why? Because you need some lift now and you won't be adding all the extra weight until later.

NOW: Add a 50mm spacer ($50 each) to the rear of each spring top. Adjust T-bars to match ($0). Get an alignment ($60). You'll have a 2-inch lift for $160. Your ride will be 95% stock. Slap on your 33-inch tires and spare. IF...IF...after that first trip out into the dirt you find the shocks are too soft. Then go buy OME's and put them on. No re-alignment is needed.

LATER: When it's time to add the bumpers and the other gear, go with the lift that best suits your build. Do a diff drop at this time as well.

After a hundred + hours of search [THIS] post has helped me the most. A Big Thanks!

I am trying to get some lift without buying the 1k slee package. I was having trouble deciding from a functional standpoint if the OME 865 or 866 coils (eBAY 165.00 w/ free Ship) is worth it. I wheel hard (mostly mud) with no more than 300 pounds of gear and no armor. However, I have been impressed with my 220 miles used factory suspension. I think us cruiser guys take for granted our factory components, at times.
 
Nothing like a 5 year old thread to solve an age old question. Well found!
 
Nothing like a 5 year old thread to solve an age old question. Well found!

The more I research the less sure I am in lifting my 100 series. The IFS botches things.
 
Well, there are a couple hundred people that would disagree, but it's your truck. No worries. Good luck!
 

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