Suspension Refresh (1 Viewer)

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Hey mud fam,

So, the GX is due for some suspension maintenance as it has a few clunks and squeaks now after a year of travel and exploration. Sitting at 129,950 miles currently.

I am currently still running everything stock and have never touched the suspension so I am pretty green on the subject regarding the GX platform.

1. What should I look at refreshing for another 100k when it comes to bushings, rubber, joints, links, etc? Don't want to go crazy here, but what do I need to look out for to be worn out?

2. A. I'd like to lift the front a tad to remove the rake when I am not hitched to anything. I want to upgrade the shock/spring and am thinking just a basic, assembled 5100 strut should suffice. Is this something I can put on in my garage fairly easily? Will I need to add any spacers for KDSS lean for a ~1" lift? Are any KDSS spacers up front needed for a minor lift like this?
B. For the rear, I have airbag helpers to install in my springs for when I am towing my light camper. Should a set of 5100's with stock springs in the rear also help the rig's overall suspension feel for daily driving?

Pic of the rig for attention and reference:

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Do a search for "jakemccurdy" on this forum. He's done quite a few Youtube videos on his GX and usually posts them here, one of them was suspension.
I think he did an Ironman suspension that wasn't too high, 2 inch maybe?
His videos are called, "Wasting Time in the Woods".
You can also PM him if you can't find it. He's been quiet for a few months now.
 
Do a search for "jakemccurdy" on this forum. He's done quite a few Youtube videos on his GX and usually posts them here, one of them was suspension.
I think he did an Ironman suspension that wasn't too high, 2 inch maybe?
His videos are called, "Wasting Time in the Woods".
You can also PM him if you can't find it. He's been quiet for a few months now.
Thanks for the suggestion! I will look him up!
 
You'll need spring compressors to change the spring seat height on the 5100s. They're not hard to use. At your mileage I'd get new strut top mounts. I usually prefer OE parts for that.

I have put Bilsteins on other vehicles. They have digressive valving which means they're firm on small hits but give more for large ones. This can make for a firm ride and better handling on smoothish pavement. But it can be rough on dirt roads and washboard. The entire interior of my Eurovan I put Bilsteins on would rattle on washboard. For me the huge anti sway bars enabled by KDSS already make for sufficiently flat cornering for a rig this large and heavy. I don't mind the front dive under braking. Shock damping just slows that down anyhow, it does not stop it. I personally do not feel the need to stiffen up the response via digressive valving. I have a sports car for when I want that. Others may feel differently and that's why they make different shocks.

Eibach is a new comer to the GX but has a lot of Tacoma and 4runner users. I believe they're digressive too though their reps try hard to not answer the question.

Ironman FCPs are progressive valved I think. These three all offer slightly longer front travel than stock which I is a good thing if you plan much of a lift. Watch all the Tinker videos to see why.
 
😂. Part of the silence may be that 129k is pretty low for anything bushing-wise to be bad, unless you've been thrashing it way beyond average. Another 100k then "maybe" lower control arm bushings and upper or lower ball joints, but maybe not, too.
 
😂. Part of the silence may be that 129k is pretty low for anything bushing-wise to be bad, unless you've been thrashing it way beyond average. Another 100k then "maybe" lower control arm bushings and upper or lower ball joints, but maybe not, too.
Yeah, my bushings look good, but the ball joints are a bit dirty. Not sure if they are the culprit, but I am going to disconnect the front sway bar to isolate those bushings for squeak!
 
You'll need spring compressors to change the spring seat height on the 5100s. They're not hard to use. At your mileage I'd get new strut top mounts. I usually prefer OE parts for that.

I have put Bilsteins on other vehicles. They have digressive valving which means they're firm on small hits but give more for large ones. This can make for a firm ride and better handling on smoothish pavement. But it can be rough on dirt roads and washboard. The entire interior of my Eurovan I put Bilsteins on would rattle on washboard. For me the huge anti sway bars enabled by KDSS already make for sufficiently flat cornering for a rig this large and heavy. I don't mind the front dive under braking. Shock damping just slows that down anyhow, it does not stop it. I personally do not feel the need to stiffen up the response via digressive valving. I have a sports car for when I want that. Others may feel differently and that's why they make different shocks.

Eibach is a new comer to the GX but has a lot of Tacoma and 4runner users. I believe they're digressive too though their reps try hard to not answer the question.

Ironman FCPs are progressive valved I think. These three all offer slightly longer front travel than stock which I is a good thing if you plan much of a lift. Watch all the Tinker videos to see why.
You beat me to it with the Tinkerer’s Adventure videos …

This semi-recent one has some good suspension info:

I don’t plan on replacing anything for a bit, but like the look of those Ironman FCPs. I ran Bilsteins on BMWs in a prior life and will probably avoid them for the GX (too harsh).
 
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I disconnected my front sway bar yesterday to isolate those bushings. No problem there. They look good. Likely going to add some coilovers and new rear shocks next week.

Through my research, I have garnered knowledge of this system, but also questions:

1) Do I need to replace UCA's for a lift ~2" in order to achieve correct alignment? I have read that anything under 2" the stock UCA's can handle alignment, but anything over they cannot.
 
check out this vid from the tinkerer re UCAs. Short answer: may not be necessary
 
I disconnected my front sway bar yesterday to isolate those bushings. No problem there. They look good. Likely going to add some coilovers and new rear shocks next week.

Through my research, I have garnered knowledge of this system, but also questions:

1) Do I need to replace UCA's for a lift ~2" in order to achieve correct alignment? I have read that anything under 2" the stock UCA's can handle alignment, but anything over they cannot.
I just had alignment done after I installed my Ironman Foamcell Pro 2.5" lift and adjustable panhard bar. Took it to Les Schwab afterwards and they had no trouble at all getting alignment done.
 
I just had alignment done after I installed my Ironman Foamcell Pro 2.5" lift and adjustable panhard bar. Took it to Les Schwab afterwards and they had no trouble at all getting alignment done.
Thanks for the info! I think I can get away with a 2" lift as I refresh my suspension. Now I am just trying to find a deal!
 
I would also suggest a 2" lift. You'll be able to get a bundled lift kit easier that way with pre-assembled coilovers and matched parts (potentially including UCA's). IMO, if you are going to go through the effort of a suspension refresh, why not go to 2" so you are ready to put on 33's in the future. Bilstein 5100's are OK shocks but basically an OE 4Runner replacement - so not really an upgrade over the shocks you already have (other than being new) and potentially a downgrade over new OEM Lexus shocks.
 
I would also suggest a 2" lift. You'll be able to get a bundled lift kit easier that way with pre-assembled coilovers and matched parts (potentially including UCA's). IMO, if you are going to go through the effort of a suspension refresh, why not go to 2" so you are ready to put on 33's in the future. Bilstein 5100's are OK shocks but basically an OE 4Runner replacement - so not really an upgrade over the shocks you already have (other than being new) and potentially a downgrade over new OEM Lexus shocks.
Yeah that’s what I have found to be the case as well. Dobinsons sells a kit that is a 1.5” front and stock height rear with better springs and struts as a pre assembled kit that I will likely go with. A vendor here sells the kit as well to help the community in my efforts!

Thanks for the recommendation!

I will likely order shortly and install first thing in January! Will post results or questions here.
 
Yeah that’s what I have found to be the case as well. Dobinsons sells a kit that is a 1.5” front and stock height rear with better springs and struts as a pre assembled kit that I will likely go with. A vendor here sells the kit as well to help the community in my efforts!

Thanks for the recommendation!

I will likely order shortly and install first thing in January! Will post results or questions here.
I have the basic Dobs kit and absolutely love it. I went with 2" up front and was able to get aligned with the factory UCA's. I did a 1.25" for the rear because I plan on eventually adding weight to the back end.

Honestly I don't know why more people don't run them, you just can't beat them for the price. They are on a whole new level of ride quality compared to OME.

Mike from Exit Off-Road even recommended them to me over the coilovers since I drive on the beach.
 
I have the basic Dobs kit and absolutely love it. I went with 2" up front and was able to get aligned with the factory UCA's. I did a 1.25" for the rear because I plan on eventually adding weight to the back end.

Honestly I don't know why more people don't run them, you just can't beat them for the price. They are on a whole new level of ride quality compared to OME.

Mike from Exit Off-Road even recommended them to me over the coilovers since I drive on the beach.
Fantastic! Thanks for the review of the kit! I'll give Exit Offroad a call later today to discuss!
 
^ I installed Dobinsons MRAs and new UCAs on my GX a couple weeks ago. If you have the tools, workspace and mechanical inclination to enjoy this sort of thing it's a Saturday project with a friend. The Ironman 4x4 and @jakemccurdy 's Wastin Time in the Woods YouTube videos are worth watching to get a feel for the project and learn some solid tips (disconnect the sway bars from the KDSS brackets).
 
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