suspension lift.....again....and again...

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Aug 8, 2004
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While I'm daydreaming about my Cruisers still 16 years later; well, I gues is it 10:53, but I'm awake. Anyway, I'm still trying to decide what parts I'll be gradually ordering under the wife's radar. I figure if I bolt a few things on at a time she won't notice the current OME J lift increase until it's time to buy new tires sometime next Summer. Who know's, maybe I can sneak slightly larger than 315's in without notice.

This is what I'm thinking now.

1...2" drop bump stops.
2...Man-a-Fre drop kit front and back instead of the Slee control arms.
3...6" Slee springs.
4...CV driveshafts front and back.
5...Drop bracket for the rear brakes.
6...DBA drilled/crossed rotors.
7...Longer brake lines for 6" lift.

I already have the Slee adjustable panhards, sway bar drops.

I'm trying to decide between 4:88 and 5:29's. Also debating 36" or 37" tires. Considering how much I drive on the highway I'll probably go 4:88. I'm also hesitant to go larger than 36's simply because when I used to run 38's on my Tacoma, I broke stuff regularly; but of course that was the Taco, but still I'm into reliability. I know 35's/315's are probably best overall for avoiding breakage, but I feel like a little more clearance would help.

Of course I'm still debating keeping the OME J's and going with Man-a-Fre 30mm spacers with 36's. Of course with that I still feel as though the control arm drop kit would be a good idea, though I already have the OME castor bushings pressed in and I don't really want to take them out yet as they'd probably be too much correction with the Man-a-Fre control arm drop kit.

But with the above, I don't know how comfortable I feel with spacers on top of my springs. 6" springs just seem better than J's with spacers.

Anyway, the Hanna sliders will be ordered tomorrow if I can get anyone on the phone at Hanna. I only got voicemail today and no e-mail response yet. Then I'll order the Hanna rear bumper after that. So I have some time to decide which way to with the lift. Of course I could just stick with the J's and 315's.

For now I hope the Durabak dries completely. It's cold again today here in NC and it might be a little warmer with the windows up.
 
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I notice Hanna replys to messages in spurts. He is also a firefighter so he might be out chasing down a fire... he's pretty good about returning messages.
 
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Hanna E-mailed either way late or way early yesterday or this morning.

The 36's would be Swampers.
 
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Personally I would go with the arms rather than the drop brackets, my truck drive great with them and the are real pieces of work. Also love the spring rates on the 6" springs my truck drives better then stock on the road. I have had no problem with the stock rear drive shaft with the upper adjustable control arms from slee. I wish someone made some extended heavy rear arms but...
 
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He already has the slee adjustable ones....why would you get the drop bracket when you already have an adjustable panhard.
 
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Mar 6, 2005
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Right on noah, I'm curious to hear how the Man-A-Fre drop kit works.

I've read a few concerns about dropping the arms and possible hang ups which does and does'nt make sense. But then again, I've heard of at least the Slee rear adjustable control arms breaking too. Adjustable is cool, but it only makes sense that by making control arms adjustable more strain could be placed where the threads are attached. Who knows?

But for now I'm focusing on ordering sliders next then the rear bumper before I get into chaging the suspension setup.
 

NorCalDoug

problems solved daily...
 
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I don't recall the details, but I do recall 5.29s being much weaking than 4.88s. Personally, I'd stick with the 4.88s.

Sounds like you're planning on wheeling the snot out of your rig...if you don't already. If so, I'd avoid anything that would hang down lower than necessary. I saw the MAF drop brackets/blocks, etc. on a rig at S-n-T. There are some bits that hang lower than I'd be happy with. Just my 2 cents from observing the rig on the dunes.

36 vs 37 tires? I don't see much of a difference. What's a half-inch gonna get ya :D
 
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zebra72 said:
But then again, I've heard of at least the Slee rear adjustable control arms breaking too. Adjustable is cool, but it only makes sense that by making control arms adjustable more strain could be placed where the threads are attached. Who knows?
No need to be coy, who did you hear this from? Someone you know? Details man if you're going to drop a line like that.

Mike R
 

CYRUS

 
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LukeO said:
I'm also hesitant to go larger than 36's simply because when I used to run 38's on my Tacoma, I broke stuff regularly; but of course that was the Taco, but still I'm into reliability. .
can you even run 38's with slee's 6" lift?
 

sleeoffroad

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At some point lift does not clear tires. The wheelwells are not big enough for 38's. It does not matter how much lift you have, if you stuff the tire, it will not fit. Unless you eliminate all the up travel.
 

sleeoffroad

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zebra72 said:
I've read a few concerns about dropping the arms and possible hang ups which does and does'nt make sense. But then again, I've heard of at least the Slee rear adjustable control arms breaking too.
Just FYI, enlisted the help of a friend that has access to people doing destructive testing. We took one end of our upper rear arms with adjuster welded in and tested it to failure.

Interesting is that the tube actually broke before the adjuster or the welds.

Attached two pictures showing the scale and the test piece. The piece broke at 19000 lbs
test1.jpg
test2.jpg
 
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Nice to know!! However, I wouldn't be too worried about that post being that it was his one and only post. By the way...when are you going to produce longer lower arms like your HD rear lower arms?
 

sleeoffroad

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I doubt it, moving the tire backwards only increases the rubbing when the tire is compressed. So the net "shorter" arms with the lift help with the rubbing situation with larger tires.
 
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