Supercharger wizard needed (1 Viewer)

[santacruzpaul]

Five years ago I found a NOS TRD supercharger at an East Coast Toyota dealership and had my local dealership install it on my 1997 80 series. For the first 3 years I battled low octane California “premium“ fuel engine knock at low rpm high gear loading. After replacing stock plug wires and installing iridium racing plugs, the knock improved. That was going great for a year but now it’s been a year of chasing an intermittent, unpredictable low idle (200 rpm) that I cannot reproduce for the mechanic. Three times however the condition has thrown a 0401 code (insufficient egr flow) and the modulator, vsv valve have been replaced. The error code resets but has returned. We’ve replaced the air/idle control valve and traced all emissions and vacuum lines verifying against the factory and Magnuson diagrams. The MAF and throttle body have been cleaned and fuel pressure has been verified. Vacuum readings are within normal. Fuel economy is normal and performance is great when driving but coming up to a stop, I just don’t know if it’s going to sputter or flat out stall. If I have to hit the starter, 9 times out of 10 it returns to a solid 650 rpm idle. I’m fully expecting another code any day now so any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[landtank]

The blower runs all the time. It just doesn’t make boost at or close to idle

 

[dirtyboots]

Reading this doesn't show that the cable has been eliminated. If it's original to the vehicle there may be fraying / spurs dragging inside of the housing that you can't see, or just years of thick greasey dirt. It makes sense that it would hang up after driving, then release. That or vacuum. Increase throttle / driving is overcoming the cable or vacuum issues IMO.

Secondly disconnect whatever you want to diagnose your vehicle. CHP is probably the only entity that would entertain citing for smog, and they would do it on a secondary stop basis, and normally as a FU to whomever, such as a person getting arrested and impounded for a sideshow, or etc. You're not getting pulled over because your exhaust stinks. Bla bla yeah I've heard the stories about LA having roving smog checks but the fuzz isn't impounding your 80 series for disconnected smog bits to diagnose a low idle. Further than that there are multiple counties in CA that do not require smog. And finally and furthermore, remember the "Big Lebowski" when dude went to get his car that was stolen out of impound, and the cop was cracking up at the idea of them investigating the theft. Ain't nobody got time for that.

*Please whomever don't side track this thread in to a CA smog discussion, trying to help out the OP diagnose the super charger problem*

 

[inkpot]

Go two heat ranges colder on the plugs as well, if you haven’t already . . .cuz pre-ignition was an issue w/ my SC and normal plugs in the summer.

So what plugs are you running now?

 

[inkpot]

The blower runs all the time. It just doesn’t make boost at or close to idle

I run a combination vacuum/boost gauge on my A pillar. Light to moderate throttle keeps the intake vacuum strong enough that I do not go into boost. This is the way I make my feeble attempt at Economy Driving. The impellers are always spinning at whatever speed the belt drive is moving. The bleed/bypass gate is always held open to prevent boost as long as you have vacuum in the intake. At some mid point the throttle plate is open enough to zero out the vacuum and which allows the bypass gate to gradually close. This allows the boost to build up in the manifold, resulting in more power.

 

[inkpot]

Hey Paul, did you ever double check the ignition timing on the dizzy? I have seen 1fz with low/loose dizzy timing that resulted in low idle speeds.

 

[Saito]

So what plugs are you running now?

Wanna say they’re NGK BRK7Es or BKR7Es IIRC. It’s whatever Rick recommended years ago.

 

[inkpot]

Wanna say they’re NGK BRK7Es or BKR7Es IIRC. It’s whatever Rick recommended years ago.

Kool. Thanks. So how's things out in Wyo? I lived in Cheyenne from 75 - 84. Fished and hunted mostly in the Snowy Range area.

 

[landtank]

I run a combination vacuum/boost gauge on my A pillar. Light to moderate throttle keeps the intake vacuum strong enough that I do not go into boost. This is the way I make my feeble attempt at Economy Driving. The impellers are always spinning at whatever speed the belt drive is moving. The bleed/bypass gate is always held open to prevent boost as long as you have vacuum in the intake. At some mid point the throttle plate is open enough to zero out the vacuum and which allows the bypass gate to gradually close. This allows the boost to build up in the manifold, resulting in more power.

Personally I think the TRD setup is late to the game as far as bringing boost on off idle transitions.

I don’t have any hard data on this but moving the sensing line from the throttle adapter to a position post compressor should yield better low end boost

 

[Saito]

Kool. Thanks. So how's things out in Wyo? I lived in Cheyenne from 75 - 84. Fished and hunted mostly in the Snowy Range area.

It’s beautiful as always. I’m further north in the Land of Wor. Great place to live. Good wheeling close by too.

 

[lumbee1]

I run a combination vacuum/boost gauge on my A pillar. Light to moderate throttle keeps the intake vacuum strong enough that I do not go into boost. This is the way I make my feeble attempt at Economy Driving. The impellers are always spinning at whatever speed the belt drive is moving. The bleed/bypass gate is always held open to prevent boost as long as you have vacuum in the intake. At some mid point the throttle plate is open enough to zero out the vacuum and which allows the bypass gate to gradually close. This allows the boost to build up in the manifold, resulting in more power.

What gauge mount did you use on the A-pillar?

 

[inkpot]

What gauge mount did you use on the A-pillar?

Years ago someone gave me a used 2 hole drivers side A pillar gauge pod. I run an EGT in one and a combo vacuum/boost in the other.

 

[inkpot]

Personally I think the TRD setup is late to the game as far as bringing boost on off idle transitions.

I don’t have any hard data on this but moving the sensing line from the throttle adapter to a position post compressor should yield better low end boost

They may of set it up to avoid spark knock? I am running a 2.8" pulley and the Landtank MAF and injector kit. If I floor it below 2500 rpm it wants to knock a little, so I usually tip the throttle in easy and/or downshift. I am running stock timing advance and the recommended colder plugs. It never wants to knock above 3000 rpm, and it runs out to 5000rpm like a stripped ass ape!