Supercharger install questions-vac hose routing (1 Viewer)

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Supercharger install questions - extending wires/vac hoses

The vac hose diagram is a bit unclear on this-

The 7/8th tubing that goes from the orange filter (under the intake manifold) ends up here (at the throttle body adapter). However, look at the size difference of the fitting and hose- the fitting is as large as the OD and the ID is quite a bit smaller-wtf? Am I mistaken on where this goes?
edit: this is indeed the correct routing. You must muscle that hose over the large fitting.
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what is this for? threaded on the inside and outside
this is an extra fitting for the intake manifold if you want to add a sensor- (thanks hzavarce)
4538914816_554c4a304e.jpg


also some notes that might help with installation of the TRD Supercharger
Install tips:

Check this wiring- hidden by the air canister- but the heat wrap was burnt and desintegrating.
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putting a photo to George Scolaro's excellent reference- move the heat shield out of the way to tighten up the SC plenum bolt
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the wrench is the original location of the heat wrapped cable (goes to throttle body). Moved to other side of heater hose for smoother routing and no pressure on any lines.
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Serpentine belt tool makes installing the SC belt a no-brainer. Get one.
Again, George Scolaro indicates this or shows how to make your own.
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- still have to extend the wires to connect to throttle body. This will be the most time consuming aspect of the install. About 6" short at the "T" of the harness.

(I may try to go back further, I believe you can get away with cutting only a couple wires that way?)

- Pretty cool how simple it is to bolt-on some added power. So far the only tedious part is the wiring. Nothing else is hard at all.

- I found that the most frustrating things are lining up the fan clutch and shroud to put back in without messing up the radiator fins.

Still have a little bit to go but all the "heavy lifting" is done.

couple good links
(required reading) Kazuma Supercharger Install

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/236693-installed-supercharger-tips.html

thanks ahead of time for info on the top questions.

please read post #8 regarding extending the wires
 
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4538914816_554c4a304e.jpg


This is an adapter if you choose to put a booster guage in your manifold. It replaces the plug you have put there. The instructions are not very clear about this

I don't remember having issues with the hoses, but I did have to double check a lot as they were not cut to lengh

BTW... I love chachapas too !!!
 
and arepas! :)

thanks, that's good to know.
 
Great timing on this post. I just finished the install last night. I agree about the diagram.

That hose fitting on the TB adapter goes to the "T" under the intake plenum that connects to the orange filter. I used a different size hose and clamped both ends. I finally figured it out though as where the original tube mount to the intake is now blocked off with the TB gasket.

You can't pull the harness out any more as two "yellow/red" wires in the six wire harness are factory tapped to one wire between cylinder 4 & 5 on the intake side. I tried. The other could be pulled back but I just extended and soldered that one too as it was easier than undoing it all again. Stagger your splices so the harness doesn't bulge.
 
Great timing on this post. I just finished the install last night. I agree about the diagram.

That hose fitting on the TB adapter goes to the "T" under the intake plenum that connects to the orange filter. I used a different size hose and clamped both ends. I finally figured it out though as where the original tube mount to the intake is now blocked off with the TB gasket.

so my routing of the hose is correct but you used a larger hose to fit over that 90° fitting in the TB adapter?

You can't pull the harness out any more as two "yellow/red" wires in the six wire harness are factory tapped to one wire between cylinder 4 & 5 on the intake side. I tried. The other could be pulled back but I just extended and soldered that one too as it was easier than undoing it all again. Stagger your splices so the harness doesn't bulge.

so you cut & extended all 10 wires? There are approx 10 total wires on those 2 connectors to the TB.
I guess I'm getting confused on what exactly people have been cutting and where.

Thanks for the info:beer:
 
so my routing of the hose is correct but you used a larger hose to fit over that 90° fitting in the TB adapter?



so you cut & extended all 10 wires? There are approx 10 total wires on those 2 connectors to the TB.
I guess I'm getting confused on what exactly people have been cutting and where.

Thanks for the info:beer:

Yes, I used a larger hose. My SC was used, I pulled it off another cruiser before getting it rebuilt. The hose per the instructions that I bought, didn't fit so I used the old hose that came off of it as it was the only one that was still in good condition. Lucky for me.

I really wish someone offered a jumper harness for this but I ended up cutting and soldering all ten wires. It was very time consuming with 10 splices 20 solders and 40 tips to braise. Luckily, I had a bunch of spare wire from the junk yard and I managed to find the same gauge and color of all wire except the brown wire. I added about 6 1/2 inches to each harness and routed them up along the back side of the air duct.

I just cut and soldered each wire one at a time so I didn't mix them up then double shrink wrapped, wrapped in aluminum tape them put on a plastic wiring conduit over it.

I have to reinstall the starter, battery today and put the belt on. I'll keep my fingers crossed that everything went ok.
 
Wiring instructions: extending wiring harness for TRD Supercharger

I figured this wiring thing out.
TRD instructions are not applicable.

Here are the steps-
-disconnect all connectors on the fuel injector branch (6 connectors + distributor and 2 others- all easy to see) This gives you slack to work on cutting away the tape.

even though it is clear, I labeled my injector connectors to avoid confusion. You really can't b/c they alternate color and I messed up anyway b/c this is actually #4 :hillbilly:
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-cut back tape/loom carefully. This is the most tedious task, but it will go fairly quickly with patience. Don't cut wires! :)

-unbolt and unclip the plastic casing on the firewall that the harness goes thru (12mm x2)
*note- you can try to just go to the plastic casing to see if you have enough slack but it's a lot easier to just unbolt it and work with the loom.

To open the plastic housing, open the tabs w flathead. It is a bit tricky at the bend but easy once you know what you are doing.
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-unbolt the heater hose bracket to give you wiggle room (10mm x2)
*note- I would do the two steps above FIRST, again, gives more freedom.
In fact, if you take the time to unplug all the connectors below the motor, you could pull out the entire harness and make life really easy.

-now you are free to lift the harness to cut away the tape and find your wires that you want to extend

-carefully cut the tape up to the plastic casing. From there the wires are mostly free.

-you will hit a blue tap where two of the wires end. The junction is approx. under the intake between injector #4 & 5.
yellow w/ red stripe on both. these are the only two wires you cut

this is about how far you get halfway. The plugs about reach but the wires are not relaxed - just because it connects doesn't mean it fits. Note- 2 wires cut in photo.
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4541114119_e070958155.jpg

- thread the cables back thru the harness as the wires are intertwined in a couple areas. There is plenty of room between the wires, just be patient.

note: you don't have to go as far as I did. Just give enough slack that it works for you.
- this frees all the wires all the way and then some except for 2 wires you cut
below I'm holding the wires for the two connectors.
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looks intimidating w/ all the wires exposed but it's really not. Simple steps.

- now put in your two extensions for the wires you cut.

here I'm holding my two extension wires (red)
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- decide how you want to feed your wires out.

-test your new connections
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-you now have plenty of room for your connectors to route along the firewall
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-tape it back up and put replace the loom back where it was. Pay attention to where Toyota taped heavily and mimic.
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-reinstall plastic housing and the rest you un-did (not pictured)

-wrap with heat wrap to protect (not pictured)
 
according to the the TRD diagram,
the 90° brass fitting on the TB adapter leads to the "T" fitting/orange filter (under the intake).

That's my question. The T fitting is 7/8. Vac hose fits fine. The other end (I pictured) is that massive 90° brass fitting- got the 7/8 hose on it but not to my satisfaction... still not sure I did that right or if my routing is wrong.

here is the line I'm talking about
4543687682_aeb3cb9c69.jpg
 
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Does anybody have an idea on this?

The 90 degree brass fittitng on the US passenger side of the SC throttle body adapter definetly goes to the "T" under the intake plenum that is feed via the "orange" valve. As depicted in post #10.

However, the 90 degree fitting on the bottom of the TB adapter is not show in the diagram, discussed in the instructions or even pictured in the instructions. Should this fitting tie into the the line leading to the "T"?

I currently have it blocked off with no vacuum leaks but can't get ANY boost indication out of the used VDO Vacuum/Boost gauge that came off the parts truck.

Unfortunately, that vacuum lines were removed by someone else so I don't know how it was routed on the last 80 but I was told that the gauge would read up to 5 lbs. of boost by the PO. So I doubt the gauge is bad.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks.
 
there is no exposed fitting under the TB adapter.

there are two that are connected by a hose from TRD already done.
 
there is no exposed fitting under the TB adapter.

there are two that are connected by a hose from TRD already done.

Hmmm, does your TB adapter have a plug in a tapped hole on the bottom then?

Also, when was your SC made? Maybe my SCand/or TB adapter plate is an earlier version for a 4.0L.

I'll go take a pic to post up.
 
Heres a pic of the 90 degree plug on the bottom of the TB adapter plate.

It is orientated exactly 180 degrees from the top fitting that connects to the TRD supplied brake booster extension tube. Seen here in the 2nd picture
IMG00193-20100423-1730.jpg
IMG00190-20100423-1729.jpg
 
I installed a SC a year or so ago and have to say the directions are terrible. You actually have to understand what you are doing as far as altering the system to know how to complete this install. It's like they got to about 93% done and just said "F" it. That last hose ideally would have different diameters at either end to work properly. Something Chrysler would do.
 
The brass fitting hose does a U to the black plastic fitting that you have left exposed.
 
That is the way I have it set up now but I am not getting any boost registering on my gauge. That exposed nipple from removing the the little "U" shaped hose that connected from the"T" to the upper intake manifold is blocked off by the pipe that replaced the throttle body at the upper intake plenum, so essentially I could have just plugged the 90 degree elbow and achieved the same thing. Is that correct? If so, why am I not registering any boost on my gauge?
I checked the bypass valve movement & there is no interference with the clamps. I tighteded all of the 3" air hoses a bit tighter but still no boost.

I am wondering if I should use a tee and hook this hose to the vacuum line leading from the TB adapter to the plastic "T".

Also, any thoughts as to why my SC has an extra vacuum fitting?
 
It was all factory installed on the underside. I didn't have to connect anything.
The only connections are clearly listed in the manual diagram- except noting that one fitting is bigger than the hose.

If you are not the orig owner of the SC, maybe someone else messed with it?
 
Possibly? The '95 that it came off of had a Ft. Collins, CO Toyota dealership sticker on it and original Slee sliders and rear swing out. Plus it had tons of electrical mods on it. It looked like a cockpit with all of the switches. Plus both batteries were relocated to the rear cargo area. A hole was cut in the floor to accomodate them. It was rumored to have once belonged to Slee or maybe one of his employees but supposidly the SC was put on 50-60k miles ago. So who knows?

At this point I can only deduce that I have a bad vacuum connection and/or a bad boost gauge. The PO said the boost gauge wouldn't go over 5psi but I found a metel screw used as a block on a vacuum connections. So that may have been why. I don't know
 
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